Car keeps dying
Okay, so I purchased a beautiful Crossfire out of Texas. Here are the givens;
1) Registering the car in TN is a pain. 😉
2) The car sat in the garage for a couple of weeks while title issues were resolved.
3) I went today to take the car to register it. With a battery that’s about 2 months old, it failed to start. I connected my charger & noted that it was only showing 11.3V. After a short charge cycle, I was on my way with no problems.
4) After I found out that the registration rules changed, I “happily” left the county clerk to fix the issue. The car started right up.
5) I drove maybe five miles when I hear a clicking noise and the spoiler light comes on. I push the button and the car instantly dies.
6) After getting a jump from a police officer, I pulled into a gas station to idle the car before driving on.
7) The car idled for maybe two minutes, the same clicking noise and the battery light came on. The car died in about another minute.
8) Once the tow truck arrived, he checked the battery... it was 11.3V again.
9) When I got home, after making a G&T, I connected my charger up and ran a full charge cycle. It was 15.3A & the finished charge was 12.4V, then 12.3... down to 12.0V when I stopped monitoring it.
So, my thoughts are 1) it’s a bad alternator, but the battery voltage is odd, 2) There’s a bad cell in this 2 month old battery, or 3) There’s a computer issue (the first ever for this car, if so).
I’m planning to take the battery to a store tomorrow to check for a bad cell. I’m also going to clean the posts.
Does anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts on the problem?
Thanks,
- Brian
1) Registering the car in TN is a pain. 😉
2) The car sat in the garage for a couple of weeks while title issues were resolved.
3) I went today to take the car to register it. With a battery that’s about 2 months old, it failed to start. I connected my charger & noted that it was only showing 11.3V. After a short charge cycle, I was on my way with no problems.
4) After I found out that the registration rules changed, I “happily” left the county clerk to fix the issue. The car started right up.
5) I drove maybe five miles when I hear a clicking noise and the spoiler light comes on. I push the button and the car instantly dies.
6) After getting a jump from a police officer, I pulled into a gas station to idle the car before driving on.
7) The car idled for maybe two minutes, the same clicking noise and the battery light came on. The car died in about another minute.
8) Once the tow truck arrived, he checked the battery... it was 11.3V again.
9) When I got home, after making a G&T, I connected my charger up and ran a full charge cycle. It was 15.3A & the finished charge was 12.4V, then 12.3... down to 12.0V when I stopped monitoring it.
So, my thoughts are 1) it’s a bad alternator, but the battery voltage is odd, 2) There’s a bad cell in this 2 month old battery, or 3) There’s a computer issue (the first ever for this car, if so).
I’m planning to take the battery to a store tomorrow to check for a bad cell. I’m also going to clean the posts.
Does anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts on the problem?
Thanks,
- Brian
Last edited by Brian P; Feb 21, 2019 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Typos
Konnichiwa Mark
Yes, I noticed that.
I just didn't reply.
Sometimes you just don't know what to say.
Yes, I noticed that.
I just didn't reply.
Sometimes you just don't know what to say.
You guys are funny,,, I found George’s post & I’ll use that information, The battery ultimately passed testing and the alternator failed, under load.
I promise to pay more attention to all of the stickied stuff.
Thanks!
- Brian
I promise to pay more attention to all of the stickied stuff.
Thanks!
- Brian
Did I miss something? ......... Too many George’s I guess.
No, just me, but I do get around 
( Round, Round, get around, I get around )
( Round, Round, get around, I get around )
A simple voltmeter on the dash (we once had them on most every car) would make life so much simpler. I can diagnose an alternator in a few seconds - all I need is the keys to the car and a voltmeter.
I have a battery charger that includes a feature to test the alternator... it basically puts a large load on the battery and checks if the alternator can handle it while under a load. I have a great multimeter, but this just makes the test quick & easy. Anyone in the Knoxville area that wants to help me to replace the alternator then text me... 😉😆
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bignick2323
Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and Differential
4
Sep 27, 2018 12:55 PM
Bignick2323
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications
2
Jul 18, 2018 07:14 AM
brockd2008
Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and Differential
7
May 28, 2008 11:10 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



