this happened yesterday morning going to work. I live in Miami, 85 F when it happened. Now shortly before I was closing the window it gave me a weird sensation, like a bit shaking and a noise like the engine would shut down. I pushed the window button again and it did it again. After that the engine died. But it turned on right away, thx God. It happened again 20 min later.on another red light.But turned back on again.
In the evening with AC on, radio on, drove fast, 75 mph, coming to a red light it gave me again this weird noise like the engine would die. I turned off radio and AC and made it home without shutting down.
There was no rain last 2 days , but the evening before I put 15 bucks premium gas. All this happened after putting gas in. Coincidence? Or bad fuel?
Now what do you think the problem is? CPS or RCM? Or what else could it be.
I got this Crossfire 3 yrs ago, with new RCM , new CPS. The car runs like a charm and I just changed oil 4 month ago. I am a speeder. Pls let me know what you think what to do before the car dies on me forever. I will buy today a Bosch CPS just to make sure. Where can I order a new RCM?

 

When you put a load on it (window) it wanted to die. I'd check the battery and charging system.
Reference the RCM, you don't order a new RCM for $150. You get your RCM refurbished for just $52. Some say it's better than new!
Axe me how I know!

 

so help me out here, Battery is a Duracell and is 1 yr old. How I check the charging system?
so CPS or RCM not one of the issues?

 

If it just now started after buying gas, I'd lean toward bad gas. Running the tank down and filling at a trusted station would clear that up easily.
Aside from that, I'll part with DJ's advice on the RCM (always a good idea to have him refurbish the RCM, don't get me wrong) and suggest that, if the engine runs fine at higher throttle but is rough at idle, I'd suspect a vacuum leak or fouled up MAF.

One way to determine if you have a bad vacuum leak:
Start engine.
Drive it and warm it to operating temperature.
Stop, put in Park/Neutral.
Pop hood.
Now, yank the oil filler cap off.

If the engine does not change how it idles, you have a bad vacuum leak.
If the engine surges and shakes and struggles to keep a stable idle speed (at least in the first 15 seconds), then you have no vacuum leak.
You see, yanking the oil cap off creates a HUGE vacuum leak - if the engine does not notice THAT, you already have a vacuum leak.

The RCM is always suspect, personally, I lean towards bad gas, a filthy MAF or a vacuum leak.

 

THis is how I do it:

Engine off, car sitting, battery better be 12.2 volts or higher. If the battery is over 13.5 volts, it is being overcharged badly. If under 12, it is bad or is not being charged properly.
Starting engine (you need a helper for this) voltage across battery will drop but better not drop below 10.5 volts.
Engine idling should yield a battery voltage of 12.5-13.8.
Engine at 2000 rpm (you need a helper for this) battery voltage should be 13.4-14.4.

Moving the convertible top, raising and lowering windows, or having the engine cooling fan running at high speed will lower voltage quite a bit - but if none of these things are happening, the above readings are pretty close.
For it to be a bad battery/alternator, you will see obviously different "engine off" and starting voltages at the least.
YOu are measuring directly across battery terminals.

I hate how they have removed the voltmeter, oil pressure gauge (and in some vehicles) the temperature gauge.
I have all three on every vehicle I own (Crossfire, Bike and Ranger) and can see trouble coming.

 

thanks so much for the tips. I will certainly do that test now right away.
I can only do that much, not knowledgeable terms and in car engines .... , but learned quite a lot within this forum.
Now regarding the RCM can you give me a link where I can get one and than send mine? I tried a ebay link but not working anymore.
I should have an RCM and CPS in my trunk anyway.

 

To get the RCM fixed, go up to post 2 and click in his name (Tighed1) and click "send a private message" and tell DJ you want your RCM fixed.

I like PartsGeek for the RCM:
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...cal/relay.html

 

update
I wasn’t able to perform the tests but I emptied my tank as best as possible and filled up at my gas station. I avoided using my AC and radio and nothing happened. I started using my AC last night and all is good for now.
I am noticing my idle when I stand in full and it stands at 1 while if I put the automatic on stop as I would leave the car it stands at 1 and a half. In full it does not do any noise to keep it going and you would not even know the engine is running what is odd, but can’t really say if it was always like this because never paid attention to it.
I will look forward to any signs in the upcoming days, really hoping it was bad fuel.

again many thanks to all of you assisting with your knowledge! I am glad you guys exist! ❤️❤️❤️