Checking horn fuses yesterday number 6 on the rcm touched the wires to the five plugs and car started to run rough … every time I wiggled them the car would get worse … fan which hasn’t come on in some time I noticed turn on and start spinning near the radiator… wigged again and the car died … started back up when I tried starting it up. Left it alone til today and my wife drove it to work . Now it’s misfiring … shaking at idle and died a few times on her at stop lights. Rcm was replaced already with a brand new one but solder joints have never been touched on it. Emailed “tighed” yesterday and no response yet. Any ideas everyone?
also plugs and wires have been done in the past month and improved responsiveness… prior to the plugs and wires it was doing this misfiring feeling . Went away after the tune up. Now it’s back to the misfiring feeling again. What would you do? I also have a bas esp light that won’t got away turning the steering wheel full lock in both directions and my horn doesn’t work and I’ve had a p0453 code that has been keeping me from getting her inspected.

 

P0453 Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input. The EVAP (Evaporative Emissions) System allows fuel tank vapors to be purged into the engine and burnt rather than expelled into the atmosphere as harmful emissions. The EVAP system contains a pressure sensor to check the integrity of the system.

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0453
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
The ESP BAS light serves as a warning indicator that something is not functioning properly in your vehicle’s brake assist system or the electronic stability system. If you notice this light turning on, it indicates an underlying problem with your vehicle’s electronic stability program or brake assist system.
https://mechanictimes.com/esp-bas-light/

 

Thank you sir for your response and help with those codes. Just got to the car a little while ago stranded in a parking lot hooked up a scanner to it and the only code that’s coming up is p0101 for a mass airflow issue when I started the car up it fired up, but the idol is literally all over the place from high to really low. The engine is knocking and pinging. I can hear one of the cold air intake filters, sucking really loud while the other ones not, definitely not drivable. I pulled the MAF sensor harness off the sensor itself while it was running, and there was no change at all. Not sure if that would indicate as I can recall yesterday when the wires were pressed down and the car started running poorly the RCM was getting really really hot , disconnecting the plugs and feeling very hot. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry to be a pain in everybody’s asses, but this just never ends.

 

I would only be guessing from here. I am sure other members will offer suggestions from their experiences. I would need to be there with a test light and a multimeter, my scanner and tools. It could be a lot of different things causing this problem. I can only offer what I know as you are probing through this issue. Im following this thread. No pain in my ***. Thats all you man. 🤣 No apologies necessary when asking for help, never will be. 🤓

 

whitexfire84 "Checking horn fuses yesterday number 6 on the rcm touched the wires to the five plugs and car started to run rough … every time I wiggled them the car would get worse … fan which hasn’t come on in some time I noticed turn on and start spinning near the radiator… wigged again and the car died … started back up when I tried starting it up. Left it alone til today and my wife drove it to work . Now it’s misfiring … shaking at idle and died a few times on her at stop lights. Rcm was replaced already with a brand new one but solder joints have never been touched on it. Emailed “tighed” yesterday and no response yet. Any ideas everyone?"

It sounds like you have bad contacts between the RCM and the wire connections. It has happened on another car, ( I think it was GraphiteGhost) that some of those small end connectors inside the plastic connector needed to be replaced. When you have the RCM in the mail to tighd1 it would be a good time to check all those end fitting electric connectors.
I wouldn't mess around with trying to figure out any other problem until you get the RCM reinstalled in your car and wiggling those wires causes no rough running/misfires and no other noticeable problems like the fan starting up as you mentioned. Get the RCM seated in there correctly, then clear all your codes and start with a clean slate.
PS. Get yourself a can of DeoxIT D5. It is more than a contact cleaner. Really good spray for electronic connections.

 

Hey zip439 that’s what I’m feeling is the issue but those tube style electrical connectors I’ve never seen before on any other car besides this one… I see the connector has tabs where you can open it up like a door. I’m curious if one of a few of those female tubes may have snapped where it crimps onto the wire itself. I’m guessing opening up each one … one by one. Is the only way to see. I will say that two of the 5 connectors are super loose and can almost just slide out on their own. Whereas three of them once connected require a good wiggle while holding the connector to get them to disconnect from the male side. Rcm side. To the point where it lifts the entire rcm box up out of its home 5-10 mm. Those two I mentioned when I grab the female connector and pull it just slides right out as if there is no resistance at all. Rcm box doesn’t even move I can do it with 1 finger . Something about it just doesn’t seem right. Do you or anyone on this forum know of anywhere that sells these connectors. I have knowledge with crimping butt connectors,Soldering, and finishing off with shrink tubing but Obviously circuit boards I’d rather have someone like tighed1 do that portion of the work. If I can’t find replacement connectors I’m contemplating just cutting every wire leaving all connectors still attached to the rcm and sending it to tighed1 that way he can check connections on the connectors themselves when doing the resolver. And when I get it back , hopefully all connections will be tight and sound and all I’ll have to do is Butt connect, crimp, and shrink tube all 20 or so wires. Please chime in tighed1 if this is something your able to do.

 

IF those LARGE connectors in the 5 wire plug are broken on the top (like 3 of mine were), then the text file has the part numbers. Also, see the three pictures of the damage that was present inside my 5 wire plug. They FAILED right at the location where the metal was thinnest inside the connector. FIRST, MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED AT THE NEG CABLE! Check all plugs one at a time, & make sure you do not mix (switch) any, take plenty of pictures and reassemble each as you check them by closing them up and then move on to the next one. Had a no start condition, don't know about any of the other symptoms your having. Locating the smaller connectors if any are broken may be a task for you, they are MB parts (check with a MB parts guy with the information an SLK-320, and it is the relay module, I did not have a broken one of those so I do not remember if I had those numbers anywhere. If this information helps, great! If not, sorry. The Pictures are of the three that were broken, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT MIX THEM UP, mark them like I did, (I used a marker), a text file with the part number(s) is also attached.

 

Pelican Parts has them for $3.46 each. That's almost the lowest I've seen. MBUSA.com has them for $3.33 but they'll kill you with shipping.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...-545-26-26-M22

 

Ok soooo a little update. Took the new rcm to the xfire this morning and checked all electrical caps that plug onto the rcm connectors. All were fine. Plugged it in and turned the key. Started right up but did the same thing as before .bogging idle, knocking , pinging, by this time I held the throttle up high around 3k rpms to see if it would level out. Negative cable has been ff all night. I had to turn it off because th more started smoking. More codes basically all MAF codes and p0300,p0304,p0305. On the passenger side bank looking down was where the smoke was coming from. It looks as if the block where the cylinder head rests down is wet. I checked my coolant overflow and it looks empty. This car has 120,000 miles. How come I never got a low coolant light? Could this be a head gasket?

 

I’ve had smelling rotten egg smell when I get on it for some time now. But I’ve never a the temp huge go up a if it was overheating. When I purchased the car about 6 years back one of the cats upstream the whole top separated. I had to remove the entire exhaust and weld it back all the way around the circle .put it back in but I have no idea what this car has been through with the previous owner or how long it had been driven like that

 

Talk about **** luck. I have a 2002 suburban with 40” tires and a 12” lift kit that I just replaced the motor which had 350xxx with a crate and was not too bad. What is entailed in a head gasket replacement , timing belt and water pump on one of these . In comparison to what I’ve already done?