Mine just fell out (glue failure). Does anyone have a solution to this that does not require either a complete top replacement or trying to re-glue the window in? Is there maybe an aftermarket seal, frame, or kit that works?

If not, what is the lowest cost solution? So far I have an estimate for 2K to replace top.

 

No aftermarket seals/kits that I am aware of.
maxcichon replaced his with a non OEM top that has a double pocket for the window and a lifetime warranty.
Shoot him a PM and he'll give you the details, seems like he paid somewhere around $1,100

He and I did the replacement, we already had experience on that by doing the replacement on mine ( free - I was one of the lucky VIN numbers )

The DIY replacement is not too hard, but it IS a 2 person job. Only 'special' tool required is a $15 Harbor Freight pop rivet tool.
The SRT6 service manual provided in my SIG link has all the steps.
( you will need someplace where you can tie the open tonneau cover to something overhead to keep it open, any sort of prop device will get in the way )

 

Mine is starting to come loose. I put the top up Thursday and noticed the left side and a small place on the right was loose. I got some of the 3M window glue and fixed it without taking anything else loose. (I did a good job, it is hardly noticeable and sealed well) I haven't put the top down yet.
I have read everything I can find on the warranty repair, but I cannot find anything except someone's opinion. I am from one of the states covered, (Alabama) and the car was originally sold in South Carolina, also a covered state, but my car is a 2006 and the warranty only covers 2005, but Mine was manufactured in 2005.
I do not expect any assistance, I am going to see if the repair holds, if it doesn't, I will take it out and try to glue the entire window, and if that doesn't work I will replace the top

 

Wayne, if you do end up replacing the top at your expense, drive down and I'll help you do it and save yourself 2-3 hundred dollars. maxcichon and I have already done two.

 

Thanks for the information.

What is the difficulty level in replacing the top yourself? I work on cars, but never have tried to replace a rag top. Looks kinda scary.

 

Not really. Max and I had never done it either, but following the instructions and applying a bit of common sense got the first one done in about 5 hours.
The second one ( Max's ) took about 3 hours.

The one thing that hung us up on the first one was putting the window seals back in place and having them stay. Turns out you spread the seal when you remove it, you have to re-crimp them with channel-locks before you reinstall them.
The other touchy thing is getting the rear bow perfectly centered, Had to adjust that a bit on both jobs.

I'd say on a 1-10 scale, the difficulty is a 4 or 5, probably a 3 with a six pack.

 

I appreciate the offer and I sure will take you up on it. It looks like it will be spring before I have to make that decision. I figure this repair will last a while then the next repair will last a while, and I don't want to do it without sunshine. I will just wait and see. I will let you know if things change.
I wish someone would tell me where I can get first hand information from Chrysler.

 

OH! Instructions? I have been looking for instructions on how to remove and replace the top. Where do I find them?

 

Look in the SRT6 service manual from the link below .

 

George, The repair did not hold.
At the edge where the canvas meets the glass, the canvas is folded. It is this fold that pulls loose, then it pulls loose from the glass.
I think I will have to remove it to fix it. It needs to be glued between the two layers where it is folded, and this can't be done with the top on. ( I have to clean out all the glue I put on it.)
I looked in the "SRT service manual" and I cannot find any instructions on removal of the top.
I thought of driving down to get your help, but it would be one day to take the top off, one day to glue the fold, one day to glue in the glass, then one day to put the top back on. I think I can do this but it would help if I could see some instructions on R&R. I assume there are some sequences that must be followed.
Please tell me again where the R&R instructions are located.
Thanks!

 

The manual is not organized in a logical manner. They start to talk about the top early in Chapter 23, then they drop the subject, only to pick it up over 400 pages later!

Page 23-547 is where removal starts, installation follows that section.
The drawings are cartoon-ish and almost worthless (like most of the rest of the manual).

However, several guys have successfully replaced their own tops - at almost 1/3 the cost of going to a shop (that obviously is making a LOT of money doing this.)

 

Manual I speak of is here:
http://www.jodykrivohlavek.com/_docu...ice_Manual.pdf

 

When I did my roadster top.. I just fingered a layer in the fold before doing the bead for the glass. When the top first cycles and raises the rear bow.. could you not maybe use a popsicle stick and smear a layer in? Then use towels and lower the bow to keep that seam pressed together while it cures? I only had to "clean" where the previous owner used a standard clear silicone.

 

I talked to a guy at a upholstery place that does tops for dealers, and he convinced me that he knows his job pretty well. He said the Crossfire top has the problem of the glass coming loose because, before the top was made they treated the material with a petroleum based water repellant that slowly migrates into the glue and causes it to release. Heat accelerates this and that is why the warranty only applies to southern states. Once the glue lets go there is no permanent fix. anything used on the same top will produce the same result. The only real fix is to replace the top.
( Now, does anybody want a tube of glue?)
I had intended to remove the top so I could remove all the old glue and make a good seal, but after to talking to an expert (someone who knows more than me.) I have decided this would be a waste of time. I will now start shopping for a new top. When I find one, look out George, here I come.

 

Hmm... well okay fine then.. fixed mine last June and still holding.. I'll exit with that then.

 

Update, The top came loose again.
I got a couple of estimates to replace the top. Both want to take the window out and sent it to the top maker and they will glue it in. The top is like new, if they can glue it in so can I.
I re-glued the fold with epoxy after the last 3M08609 didn't hold. I got a new tube of 3M08693, (One guy said it was better than 3M08609, NOT.) It pulled loose within an hour. I got another tube of 3M08609 and re-glued it once more. (Each time I re-glued it I let it sit with the top loose for 3 days) It pulled loose again as soon as I put the top up. To show how stubborn I am, I did not give up. After researching more I found that Chrysler recommends for the Sebring top coming loose the glue made by 3M to glue on emblems. I tried that and It worked better than the other glue but after a day in the sunshine it came loose in little spots. I got some "Rhino" glue and put some in the crack made where it pulled loose, put the top loose and clamped it and let it set over night.
It has now been 4 days with the top up and it is holding good, no pulling loose from the glass, no pulling of the fold, after setting out in a hard 1 hour rain, there are no leaks, I cleaned it up pretty good too. I'm happy!

 

Very interesting theory about using an incompatible water/glue treatment of the top material when manufactured and it certainly sounds plausible. This may well have been part of the confidential info Chrysler gave to NHTSA in 2010. If so, this should have been made public, we had/have a right to know.
But, realize that the warranty only applied to a select group of VIN numbers, and the ONLY REASON for this was COST CONTAINMENT! SHAME, SHAME on CHRYSLER/FIAT & "our" Gov't.! Chrysler simply chose 9 States, Not the entire region either. NO auto maker should be allowed to pull such nonsense in our United States!
(should this thread be located elsewhere?)

 

I assume this is directed at me. NO PROBLEM !
As Bob Barker said a time or two : "Come on Down !!!"