OEM Amplifier Location With Pics
And the shortest installment of my stereo how to with pics threads. LOL.
Step 1. Remove the passengers floor mat and peel back the carpet. Start at the very top and pull straight back. Its quite easy to do.
Attachment 48491
Step 2. Remove the big styrofoam cover, it just pulls right out. Then remove the 3 plastic nuts that holds the metal bracket in place. These are 10mm and located one in the top center and one in each bottom corner.
Attachment 48492
Step 3. With the mounting plate unbolted just tilt it back towards you, away from the firewall and let it rest on the carpet pad. There is plenty of slack on all the wiring. The big silver box on the your right hand side is the amplifier. There are 2 plugs on the back/bottom side of the amp with locking clips facing the floor. These plugs are very tight, the 12 pin plug is the on the right contains the signal input from the stereo and the ground wires for the amp. The 18 pin plug on your left side of the amp contains the speaker level output, 12 volt battery supply, a VSS wire and a convertable top status if its a roadster to improve the sound with the top down.
Attachment 48493
Notice: The passenger seat occupant airbag module and other wiring located in this area. It is important to be aware of these modules and wires.
Attachment 48494
Here is a diagram
Attachment 48495
Step 1. Remove the passengers floor mat and peel back the carpet. Start at the very top and pull straight back. Its quite easy to do.
Attachment 48491
Step 2. Remove the big styrofoam cover, it just pulls right out. Then remove the 3 plastic nuts that holds the metal bracket in place. These are 10mm and located one in the top center and one in each bottom corner.
Attachment 48492
Step 3. With the mounting plate unbolted just tilt it back towards you, away from the firewall and let it rest on the carpet pad. There is plenty of slack on all the wiring. The big silver box on the your right hand side is the amplifier. There are 2 plugs on the back/bottom side of the amp with locking clips facing the floor. These plugs are very tight, the 12 pin plug is the on the right contains the signal input from the stereo and the ground wires for the amp. The 18 pin plug on your left side of the amp contains the speaker level output, 12 volt battery supply, a VSS wire and a convertable top status if its a roadster to improve the sound with the top down.
Attachment 48493
Notice: The passenger seat occupant airbag module and other wiring located in this area. It is important to be aware of these modules and wires.
Attachment 48494
Here is a diagram
Attachment 48495
What are you trying to accomplish?
If four channel sound is all you are after, then put an aftermarket head unit in and run four additional wires to the existing amp and wire it for four channels (which the factory SHOULD have done, but didn't).
Start here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-channels.html
The factory head is only two channels - it is my view that you are wasting your time and effort to try to 'beef up' the system and yet, leave that POS head in there.
Start THERE, not with another amp and more speakers. YOu are not REALLY going to add all of that and keep it 2 channel, are you?
Even though it has been many years since this debate started, I wonder if there is anyone who can help me. I've had water getting in from the passenger side as well Then I noticed that smoke was coming out of the glove compartment and immediately after that the stereo audio stopped working... It could be that the amplifier you are using has been fried by water talking in this section or can it be something else? Also I'm having trouble finding this infinity amp and the few I've found on the net cost €200 and are quite rusty...Does anyone know of other amp models compatible with the same attacks without having to redo the wiring? Many thanks in advance to anyone who replies 🫶🏼
Yes, I cleaned them well and since I bought the car 4 years ago, every time it rains heavily, they fill up and water enters the car, I made a change to the small entrance door.air, reducing it with a plastic plate and raising the whole by about 5cm. Air still gets in when I turn on the fan, but at least no more water is getting in. Now I have to fix the damage that h has done, i.e. that the audio from the speakers no longer works even if the car radio is perfectly functional. I've already checked all the fuses. Thanks for whoever replies 🫶🏼
Yes, I cleaned them well and since I bought the car 4 years ago, every time it rains heavily, they fill up and water enters the car, I made a change to the small entrance door.air, reducing it with a plastic plate and raising the whole by about 5cm. Air still gets in when I turn on the fan, but at least no more water is getting in. Now I have to fix the damage that h has done, i.e. that the audio from the speakers no longer works even if the car radio is perfectly functional. I've already checked all the fuses. Thanks for whoever replies 🫶🏼
1) It is likely that the 'blower motor resistor' is damaged, easy, cheap fix. I suspect the blower motor is also damaged. I'd bet you will be changing both.
2) I think it is likely the amp for the radio is water damaged. You must pull up the carpet in the passenger footwell, then remove the cover plate over the amplifier. It will be easy to yank out the connectors from the amp and see if you have corrosion on the connector pins. If you do, it's time for a new amp and new wiring. The easiest and least expensive method is to go with an aftermarket JVC/Kenwood/Clarion/etc. amp.. While doing this, you could run four more wires from the AM/FM head (if it is an aftermarket head) and provide yourself true four channel sound. This way, you do not waste months chasing OEM connectors and wiring harness. Wiring up a new head unit and amp, using the existing speakers and speaker wire runs, is not all the difficult compared to trying to restore the awful, factory two channel system.
You have GOT to get under there and see what the situation is. I think you have two issues here, from the water intrusion.
1) It is likely that the 'blower motor resistor' is damaged, easy, cheap fix. I suspect the blower motor is also damaged. I'd bet you will be changing both.
2) I think it is likely the amp for the radio is water damaged. You must pull up the carpet in the passenger footwell, then remove the cover plate over the amplifier. It will be easy to yank out the connectors from the amp and see if you have corrosion on the connector pins. If you do, it's time for a new amp and new wiring. The easiest and least expensive method is to go with an aftermarket JVC/Kenwood/Clarion/etc. amp.. While doing this, you could run four more wires from the AM/FM head (if it is an aftermarket head) and provide yourself true four channel sound. This way, you do not waste months chasing OEM connectors and wiring harness. Wiring up a new head unit and amp, using the existing speakers and speaker wire runs, is not all the difficult compared to trying to restore the awful, factory two channel system.
1) It is likely that the 'blower motor resistor' is damaged, easy, cheap fix. I suspect the blower motor is also damaged. I'd bet you will be changing both.
2) I think it is likely the amp for the radio is water damaged. You must pull up the carpet in the passenger footwell, then remove the cover plate over the amplifier. It will be easy to yank out the connectors from the amp and see if you have corrosion on the connector pins. If you do, it's time for a new amp and new wiring. The easiest and least expensive method is to go with an aftermarket JVC/Kenwood/Clarion/etc. amp.. While doing this, you could run four more wires from the AM/FM head (if it is an aftermarket head) and provide yourself true four channel sound. This way, you do not waste months chasing OEM connectors and wiring harness. Wiring up a new head unit and amp, using the existing speakers and speaker wire runs, is not all the difficult compared to trying to restore the awful, factory two channel system.
Yes, I always clean them every year. There are 3 of them, two lateral and one central, but unfortunately when it rains a lot, the water doesn't have time to drain and fills up, thus reaching the ric door.recirculation of the air and going inside... The last time I was so irritated for the umpteenth time that water got in, that I cleaned them by putting a plunger cleaner inside first and then the using the spring to unclog the drains, afterwards I cleaned with soap and water so as not to corrode anything, Then later I applied that modification, i.e. I reduced the opening of the air recirculation door by placing a plastic and silicone plate
You have GOT to get under there and see what the situation is. I think you have two issues here, from the water intrusion.
1) It is likely that the 'blower motor resistor' is damaged, easy, cheap fix. I suspect the blower motor is also damaged. I'd bet you will be changing both.
2) I think it is likely the amp for the radio is water damaged. You must pull up the carpet in the passenger footwell, then remove the cover plate over the amplifier. It will be easy to yank out the connectors from the amp and see if you have corrosion on the connector pins. If you do, it's time for a new amp and new wiring. The easiest and least expensive method is to go with an aftermarket JVC/Kenwood/Clarion/etc. amp.. While doing this, you could run four more wires from the AM/FM head (if it is an aftermarket head) and provide yourself true four channel sound. This way, you do not waste months chasing OEM connectors and wiring harness. Wiring up a new head unit and amp, using the existing speakers and speaker wire runs, is not all the difficult compared to trying to restore the awful, factory two channel system.
1) It is likely that the 'blower motor resistor' is damaged, easy, cheap fix. I suspect the blower motor is also damaged. I'd bet you will be changing both.
2) I think it is likely the amp for the radio is water damaged. You must pull up the carpet in the passenger footwell, then remove the cover plate over the amplifier. It will be easy to yank out the connectors from the amp and see if you have corrosion on the connector pins. If you do, it's time for a new amp and new wiring. The easiest and least expensive method is to go with an aftermarket JVC/Kenwood/Clarion/etc. amp.. While doing this, you could run four more wires from the AM/FM head (if it is an aftermarket head) and provide yourself true four channel sound. This way, you do not waste months chasing OEM connectors and wiring harness. Wiring up a new head unit and amp, using the existing speakers and speaker wire runs, is not all the difficult compared to trying to restore the awful, factory two channel system.
I forgot to say that the car radio is an Aftermarket, to be precise it is a Sony xav ax3005db and is equipped with internal 4-channel amplifiers (The Dynamic Reality Amp 2 gives power 4x55W). I've read that there is a way to bypass the original amplifier, by unplugging some cables that go into the amplifier directly to the car stereo, but I don't know what they are precisely... Is anyone so g could you tell me what they are? I attach the photo so it will be easier
The second and third images are the connectors that go into the Infinity series amplifier
The "Infinity Anp" is no big deal. YOu can wire the head's speaker outputs directly to the speaker leads going to the amp and simply forget the amp.
That is super easy. The service manual has the wire pinouts and colors for the infinity amp and your manual for your Sony will tell you what wires at the back of it to use.
Tha'ts easy.
That is super easy. The service manual has the wire pinouts and colors for the infinity amp and your manual for your Sony will tell you what wires at the back of it to use.
Tha'ts easy.
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