Hello all,

My central locking has failed and I cannot access the trunk. I have removed the license plate lights as shown on the PDF on this forum but inside the recess is a black metal panel preventing me from accessing the mechanism. It isn’t mentioned on the PDF. It’s the same for right and left sockets. Does anyone have any ideas on what to do next..??

Thanks and regards
Sachin

 

The European Crossfires have that plate as a theft deterrent. The only workaround I have seen it to drill a hole through the trunk lid !

 

Oh bugger

thanks zeracer

 

This should help.


Jim

 

Thanks Jim

Using a bit of dexterity I have managed to remove the old pump (sorry should have clarified I have a roadster). It was totally swimming in water. I have left it to dry and will give the electrics a clean up. Hopefully that should get me going again or failing that I will have to get a new pump from ebay or a breakers. Here’s hoping and I’ll report back…

Sachin

 

You are making progress at least.
Here is another helpful link that will help if you have not seen it before.
A few things to know about replacing the central locking pump after water damage. Search the forum. There has been a lot of discussion on this.
Jim

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s-repairs.html

 

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Also, you should get about 12 inches or so of an undamaged cable (with) pump because water leaches up the cable and that will ruin them shortly (if not already). Good luck!


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As George already told you, you now need a CLP/SSM and the last 2-3 feet of the wiring harness. I've personally fixed THREE cars with the exact same issue:
1) You can't recover a wet CLP/SSM, the damage is severe and exists even under teh SMD devices on the board.
2) You can't re-use or clean up the cable's connectors - corrosion has set in between the crimp pins and wire's conductors, both on the CLP/SSM side and the cable wiring side.

If you get a harness that is only the last 2-3 inches of wire, you will find the wire's conductors to be too badly corroded for even crimp splices to be reliable.

Also, use eBay as a last resort. I've found that many modules are for sale because they dont work. Try to buy parts from a known parts car among forum owners or one of our Facebook pages. There are a few British/EU pages on Facebook. Here is a guy who is very active in the community over there, he won't have parts but he seems to know everyone:

 

Hi all

Bit of an update…pizzaguy I tried to contact the guy you recommended on facebook but he didn’t get back to me. I’m not really a facebook user so maybe he thought I was a scammer…

Anyway, I have probably had a bit of luck in that I took out the old pump and gave the board a clean with contact cleaner and a brush. Any build up seemed to be only at the end with the levered sockets. I cleaned the levered plugs too using an interdental brush. Lo and behold when reconnected all working as normal. The only weird thing is that the boot lid opened but now won’t lock again. Have disconnected the battery for a while to see if that resets everything…

I didn’t realise that being unable to open the boot lid is an MOT failure in the UK, especially as I can just lean back there if need be. Oh well…

The central locking module is one of the most over-engineered things I have ever seen.

Thanks all so much for your help…

Sachin

 

Oh I forgot to add does anyone know if there is a common reason that water reached that receptacle in the first place..?

 

Water usually penetrates the trunk though the seal around the wing on all the SRT's
On the regular Roadsters it can be due to a slight separation of the glass on the convertible top but also possibly the seal on the wing itself.
Also note there is a rubber drain plug below the central locking module in the base of the trunk
It is advised to remove this drain plug and leave it out so any water that might get in there again cant fill the area up

 

Sachin, along with what Valk said, there is also quite a few members who had their fuel fill seal open some which let water run into the inner bay below the hatch area. The grommet Valk was talking about (there is actually two, one on each bay side), it is forward of the underside bays near where the bay compartment rolls up where it meets the body (rearward of the diff/axles). I never completely removed the grommets, didn't want the possibility of rodents or debris (including water) so I just sliced an "X" into each of the two and poked a larger than small Phillip's screwdriver shaft through it. The "X" splits and will not (not yet anyway) allow this hole to completely seal. Never had a drop in there (but I haven't yet had those seals mentioned have a leakage issue, fingers crossed). Good luck with your 'repaired' pump unit, and to you finding the source/fixing it.


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