Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

OK so I answered my own question, was able to just pull the module out of the (wet) foam case. this is where I am pretty sure it is toast, but maybe the terminals are corroded and with cleaning??
So first I pulled out the clip that holds the manifold on the module with a small screwdriver to pry. It just slides straight out then you can pull the manifold up and off. First & second photo

Then I started with the white connectors which have a three part release; push down white tab, then grey lever to horizontal, and then pull out connector. third photo

You can plainly see where it was shorting out due to the water. this connection was the lowest and closest to the pool. fourth & fifth photo

At this point I don't know whether to fhjust buy or try and clean the terminals to see if it still works.

Last photo is part number

Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

Bit the bullet and started on uncovering the CLP/SSM. What a pain, removed all the black clips with some tools I bought at Dealextreme. "ZIQIAO Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Dash Audio Removal Installer Pry Tool - Orange ZIQIAO Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim" only costs 2.83 but it comes from China so allow up to three weeks.

Then I removed both of the fabric covered panels and after 20 minutes figured out how to remove the black plastic piece connected to the latch area. Had to remove the white panel from the drivers side and noticed two of the white clips were smashed, probably from when it was assembled. I ended up breaking one. So found a youtube clip where someone had modified clips for an Infinity to work on Crossfires. I am not sure about the guidelines for linking so just will give you the title "How-To Video of Modified Trim Panel Clips Chrysler Crossfire.AVI" this video was from 2008 but I am sure Infinity's still use the same clips for the older ones. I think he said less than $3 for 4 clips. So tomorrow I will be checking on getting me a few.

Finally was able to pull the Styrofoam inserts out and found evidence of prior water stains on the drivers side.


The passenger part really depressed me. There is 1/2 inch of water sitting in the area so I am guessing the CLP/SSM is shot.

My question is instead of doing all the work of taking apart the wing and the gas filler door why wouldn't it work to just caulk those areas? They make clear caulk and it seems to be the easy way to fix this problem. Even with taking those areas apart and putting sealer in there, eventually they will probably still leak some time in the future. If I am looking at this wrong please enlighten me.

Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

I was just about to buy one when I wondered if I would have to have it programmed? Anyone replaced one and knows if it is plug and play?

Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

Just bought a CLP/SSM off of ebay and went out to look over things. The little black box that was behind the CLP/SSM I had not touched yet, so took out a bolt on the bracket and right away my hand was getting wet. Looks like another wet electronics part I am going to have to replace. Looked it up on Google and it is the "Security Tow Theft Module 1938200126". At this point I hope that I did not waste money on the CLP/SSM when it might have only been the Tow module. Either way I will just replace both to be on the safe side.

Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

Got the CLP/SSM installed with a covered foam case. Noticed that the foam really soaks up the water, took it almost three weeks to dry out. I covered the foam case with plastic then used Pipe Wrap Insulation Tape " to help with sound deadening. didn't stick too good so taped it down with duct tape. Not worried about condensation or air flow since I left that big slice open that the wires and pump hose goes through. See Picture
I messaged the person I bought the pump from and they found me a Tow Alarm, ten of the white clips, 10 of the black clips, and a couple of the metal clips. Only going to cost $35 for the whole bunch. Got lucky.

Originally Posted by GraphiteGhost

I still say before you put that all together, slice an 'X' into both left and right forward rubber grommets in the bottom of the 'trunk'. Make sure they pop through to the outside. Don't remove any rubber, just slice them in a 'X' pattern. This way, if water intrudes again, it will drain out before damaging anything.

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Originally Posted by bhindzioncurtain

I'm open to trying that but as tight as the plugs are in the holes how does that work. Wouldn't it just seal up after you made you cuts. Do you use an exacto knife and how long of cuts? I am guessing you have put everything back together, did you take any pictures?
I was considering popping out the pugs and then using the RTV to glue a little piece of aluminum screen to the bottom of the trunk.

Originally Posted by GraphiteGhost

I used a single edged razor cutting from one side to the other starting in the middle (reversing for the other leg of the first cut). Then do the same from the center of the first cut, completing the 'X'. I wouldn't pop out the plugs but if you want to do that remember little bugs can come up through those screens AND you might get some 'splash' mud and crap in there. The 'X's on mine do not let anything in but lets water drain out (they are stiff enough as to not 'droop' in the center). Whatever way you choose to do it, just remember if you completely remove them plugs, you might have issues with what you install.


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