Well its been over a week and car has been to dealer and now it is sitting back in my driveway the same way it was a week ago.

I have an 05 SRT with a no start condition.I TURN THE KEY AND GET NO RESPONSE FROM STARTER. Since this began the car has started twice all on its own. once for me and once for tech at dealer.

Checked RCM with magnifying glass and found no cracks in solder joints. re soldered the joints anyway and still nothing. Battery test good.
where do I go from here???????????????????????????

 

I don't understand, the dealer gave it back to you in the same condition?

 

Yes their diagnosis was corrosion on terminal pins for the PCM and BCM.

The car has 20,805 miles on it and the dealer is saying that corrosion is present because car was flooded so they wont cover the PCM under the emission warranty although the car shows no signs of flood damage and doesn't carry a salvage title.

 

So, what - there is corrosion on the PCM? Is that what they are saying?
Did they pull the module and SHOW you what they found?

How long have YOU owned the car? Real water damage to electronics dose not typically take a long time to show up (I have spent 29 years repairing electronic assemblies - I am not stating opinion, I am speaking from experience.) If you have owned it for some time, you'd KNOW if there was flood damage.

Now, I have seen corrosion on electronic boards that were NOT actually water damaged! Often, it's caused by condensation due to very high humidity. When that fan runs that pumps passenger compartment air into the compartment with the PCM and RCM, things should cool down. But then, when you shut the car off, it is POSSIBLE that, due to their low temp from all the air from the passenger compartment, that humid air seeps and and condenses water on the boards. Perhaps THIS is the cause of the condensation they are seeing. I am still not sure if you can get the warranty to cover this, if this is the case.

I'd sure like to isolate just WHERE the breakdown is. I had the same problme with my Ford Ranger once - turned out the nut holding the battery cable on the starter had loosened in the previous 150,000 miles. Tightening it solved the problem. I am unsure of their diagnosis - a little corrsion on a circuit board does NOT nessesarily mean the board is defective. And remember, auto techs are not electronics techs (usually), they are mechanics more than anything.

It SOUNDS to me like they are guessing.

EDIT:::: I sure would like to get under the hood with a DVM and see where we are "loosing" the signal here. I'd still suspect the RCM. Hell, could be a bad RELAY on the RCM. No way to know without substituting the RCM or replacing the individual relay.

 

What dealer in Dallas did you go to?

 

Thanks for the Reply

sadly I just bought the car it lasted 6 days and then died. I woke up to go to work turned the key and got lights radio but no response from starter. I came home started the car again I drove it for 20 minutes parked it and it hasn't started for me since.

 

I would assume that the following tests have been done.
If my starter would not turn over I would suspect that it was burnt out, it had a bad ground or the solenoid was shot. If it started once in a while look for a bad ground.
Is the starter getting any current to it, if not why.
If it is getting current why isn't working.
I assume there is no sound from the starter at all.
Forget the RCM and start from the basics and go from there, KISS.(Keep It Simple Stupid)
That's not an insult just an approach to problems.
Did you see any corrosion on the RCM? I doubt it.

 

The dealership was Dallas Dodge and yes I seen corrosion first hand and it didn't look bad. Pizzaguy that was my conclusion also about the origins of the corrosion that it was caused by condensation. This car was originally in Illinois then spent some time in Alabama before coming to TX. I am almost sure from what I am experiencing that there is a breakdown in communication between the ignition switch and the PCM. Just found that for some reason the alarm only sounds when the Glove box is opened with the doors locked so the wiring is screwy somewhere i just have to find where.

 

Corrosion on exactly what?

 

Since the car is down why not send your RCM to me and I'll send you the LRCM. It would eliminate at least one possibility.
Cost ya Postage to me and $10 for me to ship to you. PLUS you get the Me So Horny Mod!

 

This is the fifth thread you have started on this problem in a week, it is pretty hard to tie all the facts together on one thread but five is a bit much.
A simple reason for no starter action would be the starter safety lock, that is on both auto and standard transmissions.

 

I understand i have posted quite a few times. But I am sure if you just bought a car that ran perfectly for 6 days and then just quit unexpectedly you'd be anxious to find an answer too.

The Facts are simple.

The car ran for 6 days perfectly with no problems
Last friday I get up to go to work i turn the key no response just the dash lights, the radio, the door unlocks all work but car will not start or even attempt to crank.

I take the car to a Five Star dealer with certified crossfire techs. They tell me that there are 2 wires touching somewhere and that the tech is getting a code no communication to PCM. After approving more time for diagnosis they eventually tell me that the PINS ON MAIN CONNECTOR TO PCM AND BCM HAVE CORROSION. and that they believe the car was flooded and will not cover the PCM under the emission warranty. They showed me this corrosion it was not that bad. So since i don't have $5,000 for the parts I got the car towed back to my driveway.

I have since removed the RCM took it to work to look at it under magnifier and didn't spot any breaks in the joints but decided to go ahead and solder anyway. installed back in car and nothing still. and thats where I am at.

Where is the location of the starter safety lock I don't have a service manual or access to a lift but if it is accessible I would like to test it.
please elaborate more.
.

 

Since you have seen the corrosion and you say its not bad try terminal cleaner, there is some stuff that we used on SAAB vehicles and its a German or Sweedish product but its called KONTAKT 61 this is really a good product for helping clean corroded terminals and connectors. You might be able to get some from a SAAB dealer ? I would try some contact cleaner, spray down the pins and connector then plug in and out the connector several times to help make better connections. This should help you out in pin pointing where the electrical connection might be bad, and then repair as needed.

 

I have since removed the RCM took it to work to look at it under magnifier and didn't spot any breaks in the joints but decided to go ahead and solder anyway. installed back in car and nothing still. and thats where I am at.


If you didn't spot any breaks, then what did you solder? Sorry, but unless this is flood damaged car, this is usually where to start. If it is a flood damaged car, I don't think it would run for six days then die either. If you are positive it isn't in the RCM, then the interlock system would be my next look. But I doubt corrosion is the problem either. There could be a broken wire in the the locking system.

 

Service Manuals and all kinds of manuals, navigation disks,etc can be found here. Download and save to your computer and read to your hearts content.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post111722

 

Down Load Manual Then Go To 8f-32

This Will Tell You Where To Go And How To Do It

Good Luck

 

Looking at the manual I don't see that the SRT's have a clutch interlock switch thats only on the manuals which is expected. It looks like power goes from ignition switch then "Y's"off to the pulse module and to PCM pin 25.

I'd like to know the location of this pulse module looks like I can test starter solenoid out put from there

 

On your car you have to put your foot on the brake and the car has to be in park. Thats two switches right there.

 

Take the offer to switch out the RCM - maybe a bad relay, not just a connection.
Cheap place to start, and a known issue.

 

Dealer is saying they got a p0600 code in trans control module I don't see anything like this in manual and i don't see why he couldn't specify which P0600 code he was seeing because in manual it looks like that code can get specific as to which part has lost communication.

The Tech after saying he's pulled this code says he ohmed the BUS circuit comm line found ok. he then states that he got the car running a few time but it died shortly after. then says he removed the PCM connectors and thats when he found the Corrosion and stopped diagnosing my vehicle.

so do rcm failures ever throw p0600 codes?