I've gone over the threads for the RCM, CPS, and SKREEM, but after reading so much, can the experts document here the specific symptoms of each, and I'll sticky it.

• Relay Control Module (RCM)
• Crankshaft Positioning Sensor (CPS)
• SKREEM

 

Well they all overlap but from what I've seen (have not experienced any):
RCM: all four in the air
CPS: cranks but does not fire
SKREEM: cranks and fires and dies twice then nada.

 

My experience with the RCM... Dies while driving down the road, wont restart until cooled off some... Wont start occasionally until cooled some... All lights indicating power is good, but wont crank... I've heard of someone having a misfire because of one as well. My guess is that the contact wasn't so poor that it couldn't complete the circuit but more of an intermitent problem with the fuel pump causing a misfire.

Experience with the CPS: Cranks all day long, makes you think it's not the CPS, Fuel pump maybe, or RCM or something, then turns out to be the CPS...

No experience with the SKREEM...

 

I have to agree with most...RCM... is either dead at start up...no cranks or dies say at a stop sign, and needs some time to cool down, and will usually re-start.
The CPS can do the following as I have had this problem. It can turn over and try to start idle very rough and die. It will usually just turn over and not start.
The Skreem is one that is hard to nail down. Act like a CPS at first but eventually after 3 tries will not turn over acting like the RCM. You have to unplug the battery cable for a re=boot so to speak, and you get 3 more tries. At least that is how I have heard it explained. I have not had this problem yet.

 

I think you could add the fuel filter pressure valve problems to this list. They have symptoms similar to some of the others. See Valks post on this.

 

I'd just like to have a list of issues and answers reference table with links to the established documentation already done. Sort of a cheat sheet.

 

I've had a bit of experience with the SKREEM so ill focus on a summary for it.


Symptoms: The car will start and die within 2 seconds twice in a row followed by a third attempt which results in no turn over. Unplugging the negative terminal for about 5 minutes will often allow for 2 more additional starts followed by the third fruitless attempt. The lights, radio, locks, windows, etc. will all continue to work. No check engine light will be present. All of these symptoms will be present every time the skreem becomes defective, but the skreem module is not always defectiive when these symptoms present. Any miscommunication between the skreem module and other components can cause these symptoms, including acute issues with the FOB as noted previously.


Nothing in particular has to precede the SKREEM failure, however one of my two failures occurred after starting the car, turning it off immediately, and restarting the car quickly. I believe that this may have contributed to its failure. Additionally, the actual cause of failure and the specific faulty components within the SKREEM have not (to my knowledge) been identified.


Kolme

 

Hello, I have a problem with my Crossfire. I have 2 keys to it. They did work but now none of them will start the car or open the door with remote. I took it to local specialist and he says my SKREEM is no good. It has a B1000 code. What is worse, he says, he cannot buy one. He also said that this code means that the software in the SKREEM module is corrupted and cannot be fixed. I was researching the forum and came to a conclusion that these issues are very common to Crossfire. So, I was looking for a possibility of removing the SKREEM from the car somehow. So I don't have these issues again.

Thanks

 

Hello,

First to confirm it's likely the skreem module itself, unhook the battery to the vehicle for a few minutes and reconnect to reset the car. Attempt to turn over the vehicle. If it attempts to start, then suddenly shuts off 3 times and then does not attempt to turnover at all, then the Skreem module very well may be to blame.

The skreem module can be removed, however the car requires it to function, to my knowledge (granted I haven't had a xfire in 5 years). When I replaced mine, the dealership had to perform the repair as it requires recoding. Needswings, an aftermarket vendor, was supplying them at one point, however I'm afraid they have supply issues according to their website. Your best bet, if it is the skreem module, is a trip to chrysler.

 

As of now you need a SKREEM module.
A problem With the SKREEM is the car will startup but only run for a second or two three times, if the battery is disconnected and then reconnected it will do the same again until the battery is disconnected again and so on. If this is your symptom your SKREEM is NFG until repaired or replaced.
Your post does not say these are your problems so I have my doubts that it is, as the door opening is a separate issue to SKREEM problems. Coincidences like this are hard to believe so another singular problem is the cause. People unlock their cars only to find SKREEM problems when the car will not start.
Your expert may not know the true answer but it is not the SKREEM.
The B1000 code doesn’t not refer to the SKREEM according to my records.
Do NOT take it to a Chrysler dealer they will tell you they can do nothing or rob you blind and then say they cannot fix it.

 

There are currently two companies that repair them, MDP and SOS Diagnostics. You do have to ship them your screem, keys and ECM. You can look them up on line and call them. What are your symptoms? As the prior poster said, there are several possibilities.

 

OK, thank you very much. I'll research This more. I was reading the forum and found The $700 kit on eBay. The other source don't have them anymore. The kit requires programming as it is not programmed to the VIN. That might be a problem as I'm not sure if the mechanic is capable of doing this. Then, there is another issue. What if the new SKREEM goes bad as well? This time these was no warning, simply one day I was not able to start. There must be a better solution to this, I feel. BTW, anyone out there knows the cost at the dealer? The SKREEM, programming, keys if needed? This might be my only option, I guess.

Thank you

 

BIG THANKS ! I will look into it.

 

Go to a dealer and you are on your own.

 

Thank you, yes it is the SKREEM. The mechanic I took it to showed me the code B1000 and all keys are blocked in the SCREEM. He says the data in the module is corrupted and not fixable because the SCREEM comes with the data already programmed into it by the VIN, from the dealer.

 

Most everything ya currently need to know about a defective SKREEM module is here >>>>Skreem failure symptoms and repair that works

 

If I were you, I would start from scratch here in the forum. You are convinced the Chrysler mechanic is right BUT you may be the victim of bad information. Check out that post that Valk posted, CAREFULLY... IF you take that battery cable off and put it back on, then try to start the car, and it almost starts two times then nothing, you may be on the right track needing a SKREEM repair that ppl here have found that works. ANY OTHER RESULT (including no cranking) is likely something else and you need to troubleshoot here in the forum. Don't go buying that key/SKREEM/lock set off ebay, I hear ppl are being stuck with them. Never take the car to a Chrysler dealer! If it does need service beyond the forum's help, take it to an indi MB /european car shop. Do your homework, and come back. It may save you a huge amount of money. Good luck!


.

 

Checking further I see B1000 is a Mercedes and Chrysler ECU fault not a SKREEM one.
But have it your way.

 

1) Buying 'the kit' on eBay is the worst thing you can do.
2) Taking the car to a dealer is the second worst thing you can do.
If you do EITHER of those, you will NEVER get the car running. And most of us will ignore your posts asking for help, because, well, it's a waste of time.

If you want to get the car going, start a NEW thread here and le'ts talk about symptoms and what you have tried. If we can prove it's the SKREEM or ECM, there are companies that fix them, and just today Rob at NEEDSWINGS announced he has, once again, the ability to supply keys and SKREEMS. ROB is the guy you should spend money with, not dealers or eBay.

Ignore our advice at your financial risk.

 

Just a note but almost ANY code that ends in 000 is a generic one and indicates an deeper code existes that is the real problem. You need a good scan tool (like an Autel DiagLink) to see the indepth codes
I show B1000 as being SRS (airbag) related but you need the SRS module code to know what is wrong.