When I did my RCM it was definitely leaded solder, it melted just like expected.
The EU leaded solder ban started in 2006 for electronics. So exports to the EU would have started using lead free alloys at the same time.

 

You know this issue gets mentioned enough now, that I think this week is a good time to pull my solder gun out of the tool box. Thanks for the great write-up on this DJ. Currently I have a spare CPS stored in the glovebox for an emergency repair (with the proper torx bit),

James

 

I'm new to the forum but have read all the posts on the no start. My friend's son had the car, he couldn't get the key to turn. We told him to turn the wheel, work the key but still not a go. It's hard to tell what he did since we were on the phone with him. In either case, I had it towed home refusing to take it to the dealer. Now, the key turns, but it won't start which makes me think it's the lock out on it??? We disconnected the positive, reconnected and it wanted to start, but didn't turn over. I've read to disconnect the negative, but they must have used a gun to put on that bolt because it won't... and I mean won't come off. I'm trying again tomorrow. I've never had a problem with it starting. And yes, all lights come.
I'm sure I have a sticky key issue, but beyond that, now that it is turning, could it have thrown the fault code to keep it from turning over or should I check something else? RCM?

 

Well, my first thought is this...the ignition key can stick from time to time....so, the question is, being a kid, did he try to force the key to turn damaging the tumbler? If he did, you need that repaired. Especially if you had never had a problem before...too much of coincidence for the RCM to go at the same time the key won't turn, I would think...

 

If you can get the key to turn to the start position have someone tap on the RCM when you try to start the car.

Remember that once you turn the key to the start position and let it go you have to return the key to the off position before you can attempt another restart.

 

Tighed...I just diconnected the battery entirely...it still doesn't want to turn over. Is it possible that all lights will come on ...locks working and all...and the battery still be bad? it's dated 6/07.....I feel I need to try the new battery option. I soooo don't want to tow it to the shop...like I said...she wants to turn over...tries to....but not engaging...

it just seems odd that I had the issue with the key...now it turns but...no rev...or should I say...getupandGO!!

Love....The Baby

 

Yes... I will try the RCM tap as well and let you know...

 

Your description is a bit confusing, 'she wants to turn over', 'she doesn't want to turn over' what does that mean.
It turns over or it doesn't there is no want to at all.
Is the starter turning and not the engine?

Does the engine crank or not?
Is this an auto or a manual transmission, a few facts may help as well.
Help us out here please.

 

Well, it IS America, Dave.

I get tired of it, but down here in Georgia "it won't crank" means that it won't START but it actually does crank. (If you define "cranking" as the starter motor turning the engine over like normal people do.) Silly, isn't it?

Back in Michigan, people actually could describe what their car is doing in understandable terms - but not down here.

 

Just wanted to let you all know I quietly did this repair last month and was glad I pulled the unit as there were defintely bad joints. I've been soldering over 20 years and I've only done cold joints like that in my learning stages!

Anyway, I corrected the issues and checked all the other joints as well. Just the main one was of issue if I remember correctly.

Thanks for all the great pictures and service you folks do for those who can not do for themselves!!! Cheers!

 

That description left me totally confused.
I go by your description.

 

ok...let's try this again. I had a lockout issue. The steering wheel was stuck, I finally corrected it and was able to turn the key. BUT now, the car will not start. So, after reading on here to disconnect the battery, I did, the negative. When I reconnect, it will try to start 3 times, and on the 4th attempt, nothing. If I disconnect the negative terminal again, it's the same result. Three times it tries to turn over, then on the 4th, nothing. So if this is a security issue, what needs to be done? Is it something only the dealer can resolve?
I know I'm not the only one this has happened to as I've read other posts where people have had three attemps and then nothing. How's that, better description??

 

I'm thinking you damaged the ingnition switch and the car thinks you're trying to steal it... and the SKREEM and/or ECU lock you out.....


I know if you swap the ECU from another car it does give you a try(or two?) and then wont do anything....

 

ok...and if that is so, then you are telling me there is no way for me to clear the message and only the dealer can do this? I also replaced the batteries for the key. locks and all work.

 

You say you fixed the ignition switch, did you remove the transponder ring on the front of the ignition switch? It has a wire that connects it to the security system, and if that wire is not connected or damaged the car will not start.

 

No, as mentioned above, my friends kid was forcing the key back and forth. To the point the key fell apart and I put it back together including new batteries for the remote. . After the car was towed home, is when I was able to get the key to turn, by playing with the wheel. I never said I changed the ignition or worked on it. Just was able to get the key to turn. So I guess what I"m looking for here is an answer to what my next step is? Is it a security fault and so it's shut down because of all the attempts to start it? and at that point does the DEALERSHIP HAVE TO CLEAR IT SO IT WILL START AGAIN.???

 

As 180 was saying, there is a black ring around the ignition switch, this is to "read" the key electrically. It sounds to me like your key itself was damaged when it fell apart, and now the key cannot be read.

I believe this would explain the no start. These cars came with two keys, I'm betting that you didn't get the second key with the car, did you?

(I have been lucky, I'm on my second crossfire, both came with two keys.)

 

No, I didn't get a second key with it. I did replace the batteries in it after this one fell apart the other day with him jamming it. And the locks work...
So ....off to the dealer she goes I guess?? Can I order a new key? or do I have to take it in for them to reset something in the security system? I guess I just need to call a dealer, and hopefully find a xfire expert onsite. If you know of any in the Tampa/St. Pete area...let me know.

 

JUST FOUND THIS ARTICLE> So, I'm guessing the transponder in the key is shot. and my kill switch activated. I'll get a new key, but I assume the dealer has to undo the Kill Switch???? Again, if you know of a XFire expert in Tampa region...??

How to take apart a Crossfire key fob,
without destroying it,
or making it look like your dog chewed it up:

First, it’s a good idea to know a few facts about the Crossfire key fob.
The fob is a transmitter, transponder, and physical key, all wrapped up in one.
The transmitter is used to lock/unlock the doors/trunk of the car remotely. It can also be used to set off the “panic” mode of the car.
A NEW fob’s transmitter can easily be programmed to work with your car.
A USED fob’s transmitter from another car can NOT be programmed to work with your car. (at least, I can’t get it to work)
When you put your key into the ignition, the fob’s transponder responds to your car’s ignition and replies with a special code, keeping your ignition’s kill switch from activating. (In other words, it allows you to start your car!)
Any fob’s transponder can NOT be reprogrammed to work with your car. (That is, not without VERY expensive equipment, rumored to be possessed by some dealerships. See PDF attached below.)
A transponder chip from YOUR car’s fob can be transplanted into another fob, and that fob will start your car, as long as you transplant your physical key along with it.
The physical key can be removed from a fob and placed in another fob. The physical key will always turn your car’s ignition and door locks, but without the correct transponder, your car will not start.
The ONLY fob that is guaranteed to work with your car is one that came with the car, and one that is ordered through your Chrysler dealer. New fobs cost about $130 – list price.
Another type of key is available, called a “flat key”. A flat key will physically unlock your car’s doors and will also start your car. But it is not a remote. They list price for about $60 from your Chrysler dealer.
What does all of that mean? The BIGGEST thing it means is that buying fobs off of eBay is a waste of money unless: your fob was damaged, and you’d like to put a spiffy new plastic case on your fob. That is what this thread is about: how to transfer your old fob’s guts to a new fob.

To transfer the guts of your fob to a new one, you have to be able to open up your fob without breaking the circuit board inside, and the transponder chip inside. Also it is important that you not damage the “new” fob’s case, or your work will be for naught.

The first thing you’ll want to do is grab a knife or a screwdriver and pry the case apart. DON’T! That’s not very effective, and also tears up the plastic of your case, defeating the purpose of replacing it.

The key to getting the case open without mangling it is a nifty little tool, called a snap ring plier. The interesting thing about these pliers is that they have narrow tips and when squeezed, the “jaws” open, rather than close. You can get a set of these pliers at any hardware store. As of 03/07/08, Harbor Freight has them on sale for $1.99. See this link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3316

 

THere are some members in Florida that would know more about the dealers there (Kimpossible, Danimal, amx1397,) here is a thread about Florida members:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...bers-list.html

you might see who is close to you. KIMPOSSIBLE and DANIMAL are very active members, a PM to them would probably be a good idea!

I really think the transponder in the key was damaged - just because the REMOTE functions work does not mean the transponder still works!


Obtaining a replacement key thru a dealer is not a hard thing to do - but it seems to me that there are other sources for keys, I remember reading that here, somewhere.