I know you posted this back in February but I just purchased the same battery. What did you do about the venting plugs? I'm hesitant to just leave them as is. Onehundred 80 said his original battery came with a catch basin which attached to the original battery. My original battery didn't have any vent tubes nor a catch basin attached -- it was just the OEM white battery which I'm assuming was direct vented through the 2 little holes on the top of the battery. Did you just pull the vent plugs out and leave the vent tubes open?

 

It's too cold out there to spend too much time looking at a battery under the hood. But I'm thinking I ignored the vents. In fact it looks like the plastic caps are still on them.

 

Went to local self-service auto parts stores this afternoon to see if I could find the MTP-48-H6 battery. Advance Auto had 3 of the Gold level batteries (7-yr) in the rack, priced at $154.99. AutoZone only had their 3-yr battery in this size, and priced the same! Ouch!

 

Back in February last year I bought and installed the Interstate MTP-91 from Firestone.
I printed the $20 coupon off there website.
Cost before coupon was $129

It fits the battery tray perfectly but is a tiny bit shorter so a rubber spacer is suggested with the battery hold down strap.

 

Canadian update for 180's chart
I bought a battery from Napa #48-6 was 202.33 list (I got it for less as the company I worked for has an account) It is an exact fit - same handles same size, same holes for positive terminal cover. Only difference is it is black. It came with a black vent plug and a 90 degree vent elbow - I used my originals so I could keep the little white reservoir so no drips. Has a 24/72 warranty and 700CCA / 875 CA
I called Mercedes locally and they wanted $234.70 Cdn list and Chrysler was 177.00 Cdn list. I tried my local Canadian Tire but did not have stock.

Now for my problem. A week ago last friday I left the lights on and had to have my car jumped. I started the car numerous times with the old battery after the jumpstart but on the last try the spoiler light was blinking - I read that is a battery issue so I put in the new battery Sunday. Since then the spoiler light kept flashing and spoiler would not go up at 100K/65 miles per hour (numerous tries). This monday morning I got in and it was not flashing so I pressed the button and the spoiler came up -then began flashing again and still flashes. The spoiler will not come down now. I just tried the roof and it also will not come down but the windows do come down when I unlatch the roof then I just get beeps. I have read every thread I could find on blinking lights, spoilers, roof and batteries and no ideas. My ESP/BAS lights are not on and I did try the steering wheel reset just in case. The divider is in place. I tried removing the battery cables for an hour to see if it would reset. I have checked every fuse (all three panels) and have no idea where to go next. If it was a roof problem the spoiler shouldnt be blinking if it is a spoiler problem why the roof issue? Did I blow my RCM?

 

There is a prescribed method of jumping these cars and all newer cars, use it or face the consequences.
Surges of power up the wiring can do damage to the computers I imagine.
Lack of power causes problems as well, kind of ironic isn't it?
Before the pushy tow truck guy jumps your car, look in the drivers manual and see if he's doing it right. He will not fund the repairs at the dealer and you can count on that.

1. Wear eye protection and remove any metal jewelry

such as watch bands or bracelets that might make an
inadvertent electrical contact.
2. When boost is provided by a battery in another
vehicle, park that vehicle within booster cable reach but without letting the vehicles touch. Set the parking brake, place the transmission in Neutral and turn the ignition OFF for both vehicles.
3. Turn off the heater, radio and all unnecessary electrical loads.
4. Connect one end of a jumper cable to the positive
jump-start attachment of the booster battery. Connect the other end of the same cable to the positive jump-start attachment of the discharged battery.
5. Connect the other cable, first to the negative jumpstart attachment of the booster battery and then to the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery. Make sure you have good contact on the engine.
6. Start the engine in the vehicle which has the booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes, then start the engine in the vehicle with the discharged battery.
7. When removing the jumper cables, reverse the above sequence exactly. Be careful of the moving belts and fans.

 

Went to leave work this am to find my 2004 crossfire dead. My friends car wasn't strong enough to get it started (new Fusion), so we used the batteries from one of our big ambulances. Got it going, was even saluted by my spoiler! When I got it home after 20 min drive, shut it down, and tried a restart, but dead again. First time an issue and its been in much colder weather this year. mid 30's last night. Guess its time for a new battery, any recommendations and decent prices out there...thanks.

 

I got mine at O'Reilly's - it's a "SureStart" or something like that, (they can cross it for you) I think model 48-72, meets specs and was $89.95, both of my cars now have one.

 

I'm probably due for a battery myself. The car starts ok but I'm starting to get radio and heater\ac fan demons. O well not bad for the original battery.

 

Interstate Mega-Trons are great batteries. Very popular up in this neck of the woods. I personally use nothing else. Good choice.

 

Started getting some of the XFire "quirks" that typically show up when the battery is low on charge. So I did some battery maintenance this weekend. Removed all the caps on the cells and checked the electrolyte levels. Shop Manual states that the electrolyte should be 1 cm over the top of the plates. There is a lip at the bottom of the battery cap hole that should have electrolyte covering it. If the electrolyte level isn't that high when you inspect, add distilled water to the cell. I had to add just small amounts to all of the cells to get to this reference point. (Note: As stated earlier in this thread, the Varta battery is labeled "maintenance free", but the Shop Manual clearly states that the XFire comes with a "low maintenance" battery. And as such, there is some routine battery maintenance required to prolong battery life.)

Then I put my battery charger on the Varta and did a complete charging of the battery. I don't drive the 07 Coupe enough or often enough to get the alternator to fully charge the battery. Took only about 3 hours to get to full charge.

Plan to drive the car the next few days & see if any of the charging system "quirks" surface again.

 

I'm going to disagree with your jump-start procedure above. Step 4 should be reversed. The initial cable connection should be to the postive post of the discharged battery. Then connect the other end of the positive jump cable to the booster battery's positive post. (Note: This is even specifically referenced in the Crossfire Shop Manual.)

I've always followed this procedure when jump starting any vehicle with another.

 

dededwards0323

Just a comment on your listing. I too have a 2007 coupe, and had the same issue but it did need a little more water then yours BUT when I put a charger on it over the winter because I too only drive it once or twice every 6 months, it boiled over. Luckily I caught it before any real damage.

I replaced it with a "maintenance free" battery and all is well. Just keep a eye on the battery and save yourself some possible grief. Next week I am going to try to put a plastic case around the battery like we do for the Briyish Leyland cars to protect the metal under the battery from damage. I'll let you know if it works.

OK I know I should drive it more BUT I enjoy my collection of roadsters more. It is kinda like a step child but I do like the lines of the coupe. It reminds me of the split window vet.

 

When I purchased my car the previous owner had a Mercedes battery in it that had a vent line on it. Problem was the vent was draining onto the battery tray and corroding the tray and surrounding engine bay with battery acid. I removed the battery, the tray and neutralized the acid with baking soda. I had to buy color matched paint to redo the surrounding engine bay and painted the tray black. Reinstalled with a maintenance free battery, after that mess I wouldn't go any other way.

 

I just purchased a new battery from Sam's Club for about $90. It is an Energizer and I did have to put a small piece of rubber hose under the hold down bracket.

 

Never add water to a battery before it is fully charged. The level will always go up when charged.

 

Well, after some shopping around this morning, I found the best prices for replacement car batteries on the south side of Greenville, SC. Turns out I can get the following exact fit batteries reasonably priced:

1) Bosch 48-690B - $100 (Pep Boys)

2) Duracell (Energizer) 48/H6 - $84.56 (Sam's Club)

3) Everstart MAXX H6 - $98.96 (Walmart)

All of these come with 3-yr full replacement warranties. When the time comes, I'll probably opt for the battery at Sam's Club.

Later,

 

Not sure what type of battery charger you used, but mine is a 10 amp Twin Rate charger. It has switch settings for LOW MAINTENANCE & MAINTENANCE FREE battery types, along with a MANUAL setting. I've never experienced the "boiling over" situation you described above with any car battery I've charged with this unit.

Typically, once the correct battery type is selected, the charger will start out around 5 amps (as most batteries aren't completed depleted when connected) and gradually reduces to 0 amps and shuts off automatically when the battery is fully charged. So I think it would have to be really a bizarre circumstance for a car battery charged with my charger to experience the "boiling over" that happened to yours. Maybe I've been lucky all these years.

But thanks for the "heads up" and I'll pay particular attention on the XFire when using the battery charger in the future.

 

The SAMs Club battery does require a spacer for the hold down bracket to get tight. I just bought one two weeks ago.

 

I missed that point in your earlier post. Thanks for reminding me of that.