Sorry for the lack of updates.
My pitbull attacked my mom, and broke one of my dogs legs. Plus I havent really been able to walk due to my hip.

but

Im taking the car in the next few weeks to my fab guy to make sure that the piping routes I have planned in my head are possible.

but before I install the kit and everything Im going to get the foundation done first. Once I get my garage cleaned and organized, the motor/tranny is coming out. I'm picking up a set of heads so I can have them ported. I have a guy thats going to make me tool steel retainers and I'm looking into a set of stiffer valve springs. While I'm at it I'm going to have cometic build me some MLS headgaskets so I can drop compression a wee bit (while I'm putting on the heads I might as well)

Plus I'll be measuring for the ARP headstuds. I've also found a set of v8 clk headers shorty headers I'll be modifiying to fit the v6, basically just removing one header primary.

Also, the clutch is going to Competition Clutch to have one built (local company, great guys) and Im talking with fidanza at the moment about having an 11lb flywheel made to replace the Dual Mass POS we currently have.

The Driveshaft Shop will be building me an aluminum driveshaft and i'm having the machine shop I used to work at build me aluminum isolators to replace the rubber ones the driveshaft currently uses.

I know this all sounds lengthy, but to avoid potential problems/weaklinks with the turbo setup I'd rather take my time and do it right the first time.

Im also looking for a bare v6 block with crank, will also take stock pistons and rods, one of each should suffice.

 

keep up the good work!

 

I hope this really pans out! Good Luck . it would be awesome!

 

Well its not gonna be for your typical crossfire owner, you'll at least need a clutch, aem fic, fuel pump and injectors to run it. I'll be making more power than the srt guys at least

Im currently trying to source a spare motor to build, JE will be doing the pistons, BME or Pauter for rods, ARP head and main studs, Cometic is doing gaskets. I have a guy thats going to cnc port the heads for me and build me tool steel retainers, just looking for guys to do valve springs and I'm talking to web cams about doing some regrinds

 

Not get way into stuff we already know, But you think you can get the ecu to accept it?

 

ECU won't like to see boost but there are ways around that. I've had the best luck with the AEM FIC.

 

yes, because if i reach the limits of the fic I'll go full standalone

 

You'll need to build the engine from scratch and beef the heck out of it if you want to max out the FIC. I'd love to see you do it so let's see what you can do. If you do, next move is a TEC3 as it is currently the only sub 5k standalone that will do dual plugs per cylinder. If you have deep pockets, a Motec unit would work great but unless you need telemetry, the TEC3 will do everything you need it to and for half the price.

 

well, with fully built bottom and top ends, theres not much I couldnt do. Its just that the fic is missing some feature id like to have.

just trying to find a motor close to me

 

Another idea, maybe rudy can chime in.

I was looking at the engine bay tonight and previously I had the mindset that I didnt want to relocate anything vital, but looking at ti now (the mindset of just make it work) If i relocate the battery and move the ecu and its enclosure, theres enough room to make a traditional turbo setup.

I guess tomorrow I'll look at the enclosure more closely, I think the easiest place to move it would be inside the car, under dash on the pass. side but again, I'll have to look into it more, or with the battery moved, it might be possible to just slide the ecu enclosure over where the battery was. This should give enough room for the turbo but doubtful for enough room to have a real filter

 

Has anyone seen how the turbo is situated on a the 7.3L Powerstroke Ford Diesels? It sits almost perpendicular to the engine in the very back. There is a decent amount of room in the back of the engine bay in our cars. It's just all about maximizing on it. If you did it this way, you're keeping the turbo as close as you can to the manifolds and you're keeping the whole V of the engine open if you have the flanges machined up. Lots of room for a liquid air or even the plumbing for a front mount air-air.

 

Thats the first thing I looked at doing, but for the NA guys the TB sits very very low. I dont feel like making a new intake manifold yet (broke college student, lol)

my current idea would place the battery in the hatch, and theres enough slack in the ecu wiring (the crossover from the drivers side to pass. enclosure) to simply drill a hole in the firewall with a grommet and put the ecu behind the dash either in the center or pass. side

the turbo would then occupy this space, keeping exhaust and intercooler piping simple and short.

The rear mount would still be easiest, but I think the losses from such long piping might be a little counter productive

 

You don't want to take the time and effort to put a turbo in this car only to run it through this bulbous intake. It's designed for the air to be drawn through it. If you're going to turbo the car, you have to work on the intake. I mean you don't have to but why do it poorly. It would be like running a fire hose through a garden nozzle.

 

this is true, but id like to see what sort of power can be made with mostly stock parts, to see if theres a potential to market this kit as a mass option. Then I'll start with building things, built motor, etc.

Id really like to experiment with the butterfly crossover point.

 

It looks like the battery relocation/ecu move idea will work with ample room to spare, Now I just need to figure out exactly where to put the ecu. I'll probably start by pulling everything out of the enclosure just to see how much I can do with the stock wiring.

 

I don't know if you seen this link, but I find it VERY helpful with putting a turbo on our cars.

View topic - So you want to turbo your modern Mercedes? V6 and V8. | THE Mercedes-Benz & AMG Forum for and by the Enthusiasts | MyMBonline.com

 

seen it, has absolutely nothing to do with our chassis. the clk's have different unibodies with more room under them.

We have very little room under the car for a rear mount, although Im still debating between doing it and rerouting all the exhaust piping further up in the tunnel, or moving the ecu box inside the car and running the turbo the normal way..

Being injured and disabled has put a serious speedbump in my way. One day when I can lift more than 10lbs I'll get started on it

 

Well most of the info is all there right? If room is all we need in the crossfire I'm sure one can do that with ease, but as far as what he say's about the AEM/ FIC-8 (i think?) he said. Is that what we would need for the crossfire if we go the turbo route. So having a turbo work on a crossfire is not the problem, but the room is? Just need to be filled in a bit. I might be looking to go what ever route you take if your's works!

 

Yea, his FIC info is spot on. He's actually the one that led me towards the FIC for engine management. Turbos will work on any motor. The problem we have is that most traditional turbo setups are mounted on manifolds very near to the motor (ft or less away) to take advantage of the high heat from the exhaust gasses (higher egt's = quicker spool, to a point) but if you've looked under your hood, youd see theres really 0 room for a simple turbo kit such as you'd normally see.

Rear mounts have become popular for such problems as we have. The main issue is ground clearance with our cars, especially if you're lowered.

On the drivers side rear of the car, just in front of the subframe theres this nice little boxed out area that is the perfect size for a turbo (where the resonator resides on srt's) The issue is intercooler piping. Minimum size needs to be around 2.5" to meet airflow veolcity and quantity. Factory ground clearance is somewhere in the 5" range IIRC so you can see that with a stock car its tight already. If you look at my car, my swaybar is 3" off the ground, Theres no way I could swing that.


What I'm tossing around right now is this... I can do a rear mount, I would just have the exhaust merge into one way sooner (right as it clears the transmission) that way I could run exhaust piping down one side of the tunnel and intercooler piping down the other side, which would keep it tucked away safe and sound. The disadvantage, even with ceramic coating and wrapping the exhaust before the turbo (and the turbine housing) is that it loses heat and velocity, which makes the turbo laggier than normal, not to mention the 10ft or so of intercooler piping that has to be run.

Or. I can relocate the batt. to the trunk and move the PCM, BCM, and RCM inside the car, effectively clearing out the entire passenger side from shock tower - firewall. I've alrady measured and theres enough room for almost any turbo you'd want to run, save for a gt42r or bigger. Plus the intercooler piping would be less than 24" in length, which would eliminate alot of the turbo lag you'd normally see. Intercooler would be air-water, so other than running 2 hoses to the front of the car, the heat exchanger and associated parts, its a more power friendly setup.

So its either go the easier route and make a little less power a little later in the powerband, or do it the more common way and have a beast of a street car. My gt37 would see 10psi by 3k which would basically mean 375ish at the wheels or so till redline.

 

Only problem with that is that our clutch probably, or most likely would burn out pretty quick from all that extra power.

I'm definitely looking more into this turbo set up. Just to save my self some wiring hassle I'll most likely go with a rear mounted turbo set up. Infinite do you have any experience with the FIC system? Can you tune it your self? Or do you need professional assistance with that?