I have a 2004 crossfire with 48, 000 miles. My problem first started with the security alarm randomly going off when no one was near the car or the keys, like at night when it was parked in the garage. The only way I could stop it was by taking the fuse out. I put the fuse back in and contined to have the problem. Then the car did not want to start. It makes a loud roaring noise in engine area but never tries to turn over or start. Usually i could disconnect the battery for a little bit then it would be fine. Last week I was driving down the highway and the car shut off! It will not start and a double wrench -500 symbol flashes on my instrument panel. I just bought the car a couple of months ago. It was my dream car but quickly became nightmare. Can someone please help as I do not know much about cars but I do know this isnt normal. Thank you for your time and attention in this matter!

 

Check your battery and its connections. If you have a white Varta battery, it's time for a new one as that battery is a 2004 and almost 10 years old. An old battery and corroded connections could be the cause of what you describe.

The "double wrench" means you need service (check the manual) and the -500 means you're 500 miles past the service time. That could be as simple as the service monitor not getting reset after service was done. See if you can get a service history on the car.

The shutting off unexpectedly might be the battery or it could be the RCM needing resoldered. Do a search for RCM fix and get that done.

RL

 

As RL67037 said in his post....CHECK THE BATTERY first.
Batteries are very often the cause of very many unusual issues including the ones you have described.
If it reads below 12 volts with the engine off best checked when the car has been parked and not running overnight then replace the battery.

As for a -500 wrench symbol here is how you can reset this yourself.
Once you complete this procedure your new display should reset and read 7000
This is normally the interval for oil changes and the car will tell you when your next service is with the wrench and mileage indicator.

If you don't know when the oil and filter was last changed then you should either do this now or have it done.
You will need 8 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic oil (Ow40) and a filter.




RESETTING THE FSS MAINTENANCE INDICATOR AFTER AN OIL CHANGE / SERVICE

1) Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position

2) Within 4 seconds of moving the ignition switch into the
“RUN” position, press the reset button for the trip odometer
twice within one second The display for the FSS service
request is activated for 10 seconds

3) During the 10 seconds the FSS service request is displayed,
move the ignition switch to the “OFF” position
The FSS service request will continue to be displayed

4) Press the reset button for the trip odometer and
hold

5) Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position

6) Continue to press and hold the reset button for the trip
odometer (about 10 seconds) until the audible signal
sounds and the new start distance appears in the display
The tool symbol should disappear at this time

 

Thank you for all the help. Had the battery tested. They say it is perfect and less than 6 months old. I was hoping that would be the simple fix but not my luck.

 

I like your terms, roaring noise in engine area. Do you live in Africa? If so - start running.

Joking aside, 'never tries to turn over or start' to me means the engine does not move at all, correct?
If so it may be a simple fix of the RCM.

What makes the roaring noise, we'll skip an angry lion. Starter motor?
Without an accurate description of the problem it is hard to diagnose a problem.

 

Kinda sounds like the fan is running at full speed - I've heard some people claim theirs did that, until they change the battery.

I know, I know, "the battery is six months old...."

Just sayin....

ANyway, HAVE THE RCM RESOLDERED TODAY! THen go from there...

 

Battery is good and I'm sure the connections are corrosion free - but are they TIGHT?

My battery and connections looked good but I was still having the "stalling" problem. Did the RCM repair and it was still acting up at times. Took another look at the battey connections and tried to wiggle them with some pretty good force (still only using my hand and no tools) ... and the negative cable finally moved. Took off both cables, cleaned the clamps and the posts and re-attached them a bit tighter than they were before.

It's been a year and the car has not stalled once since doing that.

RL

Also - when checking the RCM solder joints, do it under magnification. You won't see the cracks with the naked eye.

 

^^^^ WHat he said. ^^^^

THEY? Who? What tests did "they" do?

Be very careful here, and look at it this way: You have been told to suspect the battery. You were NOT told to "test" the battery, you were told that batteries in these cars can cause all SORTS of weirdo problems.

The way to 'test' this theory, is to replace the battery with a new one that meets the CCA and RC specifications.

The fact is, the "tests" don't simulate what is going on in the car - batteries act like filters for the noises and glitches that happen on in the electrical systems of our cars. As the battery ages, it looses it's ability to do this. I had a battery in my Durango that cranked the engine fine -but the truck would not start. Changing the battery (I believe it was 3 years old) fixed the problem. The "bad" battery was put in a Ford Van and it worked FINE in that vehicle!

I know it sounds nuts, and I'll say "I'm sorry" if replacing it does not fix the problem, just BEWARE, ok?

 

So I had the car towed to the dealer I purchased from. He called the original owner. He said to hit the tow button located on the center console. We did this and the car immediately started. Doesn't explain the alarm issue or the sudden shutting down of the car while driving. The dealer is trying to tell me the alarm issue could be caused by bad batteries in the keyless entry remotes???

 

Not an expert in this area but I wouldn't think the FOB batteries would cause alarm and stalling problems unless the RFID chip in the FOB needs them (the batteries) in tip-top condition to get it's power? Not sure...

But, I think there are batteries in the alarm on the car as well that have been reported to cause problems - might it be that?

 

The RFID chip in the FOBs are not powered by the FOB batteries.

 

^^^ Was just looking for that thread with the chip glued to the key to confirm..

 

Right, the chip is powered and interrogated by a signal from the black ring around the ignition.

The batteries only power the remote lock-unlock.

There IS a separate battery in the alarm - but I've never dealt with it, and my car is 8 years old!

 

It was the RCM...kudos to u RL!!!!

 

Glad to help

Hopefully you were able to have the contacts resoldered and didn't let the Dealer talk you into buying a new RCM?

Anyway - glad you're back on the road - enjoy the ride