Yesterday I took apart the boot that holds the MAF and goes in to the block.I am thinking of redoing my custom intake with the MAF being relocated. The main reason for this is becase the boot that the MAF atttaches to has these two plates that look like they spread the air out. In my opinion they look restrictive. In some racing they use restrictor plates depending on the track or competitive conditions. Our cars have at least 15 ponies hiding in the restrictive intake. I'll keep you guys informed of progress.

 

Roms,

You should consult with Saskins and Lord Nikon who have also explored intakes. It might save you some time and effort.

Don't forget to get a benchmark of your BHP before you start tweaking.

 

I don't know how many of you know this but your engine builds presure to your oil and when this builds to excess your engine has a hose that blows the air which also carries oil into your intake. Thats right your getting oil into your upper intake. My new intake will not allow any oil into the upper intake and redirect the pressure release to the back of the car.
Its not a large amount of oil that actualy make it out of this line but if you whant your car to last you may whant to plug the hole and run it to the rear

 

There certainly is a hose connected exactly as you said. The breather is required, and goes into the intake (strange place IMO) rather than one of the heads. The small amount involved is not worth the mods IMO. IF you replace the entire intake system then you would be lucky to get 10bhp IMO. As crap as it looks, its not that restrictive.

 

LordNikkon you may be right but 10 ponies to the wheels for about $200-300 US is not bad considering that most chip tunners offer 15-20 hp for $4-650 US. Also a cold air intake that flows more will maximize the ability of the chip that I plan to install (soon I hope).

 

Your right in theory, but the figures wont add up like your probably expecting. The chips are not programmable enough to take into account other mods, such as intake and exhaust. Yes it will make the overall package more effective and you will gain, but it is not as simple as just adding the figures together.
Fair play and please dont take the above as criticism. Good Luck with your project !

 

LordNikkon
About this I agree. I would like to now how you dynoed your car as I have heard that the tcm kicks in at 40 mph due to the front wheels not spinning. My car is an auto, perhaps you may have some insight on how to by pass this.

 

The TC was completely disabled by removing the 2 fuses. Cant remeber the numbers off the top of my head. The light illuminates constantly as if you had pressed the button.

I do not see why the TC would engage because the front wheels aren't moving. The TCM should be detecting traction loss, not lack of movement. Would be interested in the source of the info though !

My is a manual, so not sure if yours should be the same, dont see why not as they share the same fuse systems and TC moduals I believe.

 

If the front tires aren't spinning and the back ones are, I think that would be considered a traction loss. It doesn't just look for a traction loss from side to side, but front to back as well. That's why the TC cuts engine power if you try to spin the back tires with TC still on.

I seem to remember from the previous discussion that the two fuses are 17&18. Not all Crossfires have these two fuses. Mine doesn't. They are marked as being spare in my owner's manual, and there is no fuse in the spot. It must have been a production change at some point.

 

do you think the car can dyno with out the tc being disengaged? and I dont know where I read that but Ive read it more than once about the car not being able to go past 40 mph on the dyno for one reason or the other.

 

I remember reading that somewhere before also, but I don't know where. It makes sense. Take a look at this and scroll down to the Mercedes box.
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/StdPage...o/traction.htm

 

Man that sucks, I really wanted to test my intakes performance. If any one knows a way around the tc for a dyno run please!!!! Let me know.

 

Find somewhere that has an AWD dyno. They make some with two sets of rollers linked together so both the front and rear tires are seeing the same speed.
http://www.mustangdyne.com/demo/Chas...o/mdawd500.htm

 

After talking to an engineer regarding are intakes and filters my conclusion was if you live in a hot climate over 80 degrees or drive in hotter areas that moving the XFires intake off the top would help more than less restricted air intake ,and the gain should be around 10 hp.Cleaner air filters and cooler weather would help to produce about the same,So I'm moving to Alaska ,but I may loose all that performance to less traction !

 

Here is the email I received from Chrysler regarding the dyno:

The Chrysler Crossfire can not be put on a dyno machine. This is due to
the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) the vehicle comes with. This
system uses the anti-lock brake system and throttle control to adjust
for tire slippage. When the vehicle is on the dyno machine the ESP
system reacts as if the vehicle is slipping due to the front wheels not
being in motion.

It looks like an AWD dyno is our only option.

 

I don't think even an AWD dyno will work. The dyno doesn't spin the front wheels for you... If the front wheels aren't moving it won't work, and an AWD dyno isn't going to make that happen...

 

Some of the AWD dynos will spin the front wheels for you since the rollers are coupled together to make sure the front and rear wheels are spinning at the same road speed. If they weren't coupled, you would have problems with an AWD car that can transfer torque from front to rear, since the car would sense slippage if the rollers were allowed to spin at different speeds.

 

Ahh, ok, well I guess that might work then.

 

sounds expensive!