197,000 miles. Bring you up to speed...original problem of check engine and jerky shifting was resolved when I resoldered relays on rcm. It lasted about 6 mo. then came back. I tried to rotate relays on rcm thinking a good one would replace the faulty one...couldn't get joints hot enough so just put it back in. Engine didn't start until a few tries, electric seat wouldn't move. I took rcm out again & resolderred once more. Pretty much back to normal. A few weeks ago, wife was driving in the cold and it began to run rough. She put in a jug of heat for premium burners. Got back in the care & it worked good. To be sure, the heat had not yet passed throuth the fuel line into the engine.???? filled up with gas that night. Next morning all was good for a 30 mile drive in the cold. Upon return, engine sputtered, smoked, flooded & seemed like it wanted to die. I went to retrieve wife & car...planning to tow it 25 miles home. It got it started so I drove home smoking and avoiding stop lights and signs so as to keep rpms up. I make it home and thought again about the rcm. Diag codes were misfires on 1,3,4, multiple misfires. A note to this forum resulted in a suggestion of new plugs and cam position sensor. I put in the new plugs and ordered a cps. Started the car with new plugs and it seemed to be missing on 1 cyl. Diag showed misfire only on 3. Better, no? I thought check wires & try again. Still the same. I swapped coils and wires between 2 & 3 to isolate bad coil or wires. Tried to start...several rpms with starter and BANG! Sounded like someone threw a sledge hammer in the cylinder chamber. Tried again, engine turned only a few degrees. Again...a few degrees, again started to fire then BANG! I thought I should wait till the cps arrives. It did and I installed it last night. Same symtoms. Engine will not start but between lock up positions it wants to fire. I put a socket on the crank bolt and can turn it by hand less than 2 complete revs before hitting the lock up spot where I'd almost need a breaker bar to get past the "hump". It seems I can go backward without as much of a resistance. Should I be crying by now?

 

could be hydro locking. cylinder full of fuel, not firing. Certainly not firing, maybe a bad injector... I would pull that cylinders plugs and turn it over, replace plugs. Make sure you have fire on that cylinder before replacing plugs. Make sure you have the right firing order going on. If it is back firing something is firing out of time. Keep re-checking your work.


I don't know, after reading your description again, you may have a valve problem. I would pull the plugs and see if the engine will turn over. If she spins freely without the plugs and has compression in each cylinder, you might just have an ignition/injector problem. Take it one step at a time. Now if that is fine, start replacing plugs and checking correct firing order. With that many miles, the timing chain might be worn enough to have jumped a few links, but I would think you would have other codes thrown as well, but as Dave mentioned, it is possible. But running rough, smoking, certainly isn't firing on all six that is for sure....

 

not sure but incase you need an engine,, call Rudy, have him install a V8 in it and enjoy the ride. for Rudy to install a V8 ,,it will cost you much more to replace a supercharged V6 ( can't find one), than a V8, lots of them around. jim

 

Saw an SRT6 engine on Ebay within the last couple days.. right at 3,500 If I recall..

 

They're around, and not too bad on price. MrMopar (Tim) has a few for sale.

 

Hope you don't need to replace the engine but this seller seems to specialize in Crossfire salvage and he has two SRT6 engines available . . .

srt6 engine from zavatchii | eBay

 

Have you had the timing chain replaced?
Is it possible that the chain broke or jumped a few links and put the timing way out?
Maybe you dropped a valve and punched a hole in the piston.

 

Hi All, thanks for sharing your expertise. I pulled the plugs on # 3 and found it full of fuel. None of the others are wet. I was able to turn the engine over manually with a socket...good thing. I thought it might be good to leave the plugs out of # 3 & try to start it. Not such a good idea. It turned over easily, did not fire and blew a bucket of gas all over. I have since pulled the # 3 fuel injector and will get it replaced. I'm not sure why it didn't fire on the other cylinders though. Maybe now I'll have more wet plugs. I guess I'll find out when I can get back to the project. I soaked up about 30 paper towels of fuel out of the engine just from # 3. The timing chain has not been replaced nor the crank pos sensor, nor the plug wires. Thanks again to all of you...I hope not to need the new engine and will keep you posted after I get the new injector in.

 

I hope that is all it is...The motors are really built well. The HEET may have ran a cylinder lien...causing damage to an injector. You always want to add those additives to a full tank. But, it could have been bad all along with those miles and it finally went.

 

Replace the OIL before continuing. I'll guarantee it's full of gas and perhaps quite high in level?

 

I installed the new injector and it runs better but rough. I installed a new crankshaft position sensor and it starts good. Idles okay and throws a 303 error code.

Considering potential bad new injector I swapped w/# 1. Misfires on 1 & 3. Reset codes then only misfire on 3.

Installed new fuel filter...no change. Metered wires between ecm, pcm and spark plug coils and injectors. All read the same. I visually observed the intensity of spark plug flash and they appear the same.

I checked compression and read 148-153 on all cylinders...good I think?

I opened up the ECM and resoldered all transisters including 6 in line which seemed maybe to be drivers for the plug coils or injectors....multiple errors including throttle position sensor error. Couldn't erase them. I pulled the battery and let it sit for a couple hours. Started it up and got 303 code...at idle. Took it for a spin...it ran a little rough until I stepped on it a bit....ran rough then rougher...happy to get home. Codes 300, 304, 301, 303.

Again I swapped coils, wires and plugs between 1 & 3. At idle, 303...took it for a spin...same as above.

I left it sit for a couple weeks hoping it would fix itself...that didn't happen!

Today, 2/8/14 14:00 C.S.T. fired it up (it started easily even at 0 degree temp and not running for 2 weeks) and let it warm up 5 min. 303 error. Took it for a spin...no power and ran a bit rough. Stepped on it a bit and it ran rougher then rougher...I was happy to get home. Codes are 300, 304, 301, 303(total 8 codes).

Questions:
1. Knowing firing order to be 1-4-3-6-2-5, if there is a broken tooth on the ring gear between 4 & 3 would this cause a 303 only?...misfire on all cylinders always?...missfire on all until # 1 fires again?

2. If the timing chain was faulty or slipped, wouldn't it misfire always on all cylinders whether idling or driving?

3. I haven't replaced coils and plug wires because swapping hasn't seemed to matter. Could I be missing something there that would cause such consistent symtoms?

4. Boy, I could use some more good advice and a stroke of luck.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

Gerry

 

Well, I can only guess at this point....but cam shaft sensor comes to mind. If cam readings are off, firing order will be off with valves not opening and closing at the right intervals... It is a cheap try anyway... Your compression is good, and if you are sure all coils are good, then I would at least try replacing that sensor. Again you did use a bosch crankshaft sensor right? Only bosch should be used.

 

This may be a bit far out, but if you can gain access to an oscilloscope, it might be interesting to probe pin 3 and pin 1 of each coil pack to compare signals. If they all look the same, then the PTCM can mostly be eliminated.
You could do the same with pin 2 of all the injectors.

 

Good afternoon gentlemen. I had replaced the cam sensor but it seemed to have made no difference earlier on before receiving the crank sensor. In order to continuing troublshooting, I reinstalled the original. That is still in there now. When originally removed, the cam sensor had an noticable amount of debri on it which I can best describe as having a texture of dehydrated grease having a rusty color. I did, however, then put the new cam sensor back in once the new crank sensor was installed. My perception was that it was slightly rougher sounding. I cleaned that material off te original cam sensor with a tooth brush and electronic contact cleaner then put it back in. Now I'm disheartened to say I did not purchase Bosch parts. Ouch!! I guess I'll be shopping again. Having believed all advertisers saying their parts meet or exceed OEM standards, should I be concerned about the cam sensor or fuel injector? Is this engine really fussy about that?

I will see if I can find an oscilloscope to test coil and injector signals.

Thanks for sticking with me guys, your feedback and advice leaves me with at least a little hope that I can do this. I'll send you another note when I have installed a Bosch crank sensor.

Have a good day!

Gerry

 

well, let us know, but yes they are that fussy and only do well with Bosch parts on both sensors.

 

I got one of these to check the wheel speed sensors last year - pretty inexpensive and works fine :

 

Hi All,
I received Bosch crank and cam sensors Sat. Installed them and after a 5 min. warm up the DTC was only 303. There was now a strong hint of unburned gas in the exhaust. Haven't had that since replacing # 3 fuel injector. Is this far fetched or do I also need a Bosch fuel injector? Could I really hope to clean this up with Bosch parts? I took it for a half mile ride down the driveway and back. It ran rough and I didn't tromp on the accelerator. Upon return, DTC's were 300, 303, 302, 304. I guess I'm going to get a Bosch fuel injector and will continue to look for a o-scope to borrow. I'm still welcoming advice with open arms.

Thanks again,
Gerry

 

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT'S FIXED. OLEDOC2U....Thank you for your spot on advice. Today I replaced the fuel injector for # 3 which I had purchased when you suggested hydro locking. The first fuel injector I purchased was not Bosch. The one I installed today is Bosch. I only did this after a change in symtoms when you suggested these engines are really fussy and want Bosch parts. It now runs smooth...NO error codes and NO check engine light. If I hadn't been so desparate, I'd have never believed it.

My wife can hardly wait for the Minnesota ice to thaw so she can get it back on the road.

You and your fellow forum sponsors are providing an invaluable service. Cheers to you...and thank you very much again!

Gerry

 

Good one doc !!!!!!!!!!

 

Glad it worked out for you.