I beleive if you start the car and turn the steering wheel lock to lock in both directions the ESP/BAS light will clear. This light comes on when the battery is disconnected. The ABS may also clear. Try it out.

This worked for me from info on this board, I believe it's also in the owners manual.

 

The light came on prior to the battery disconnection, so thanks but the problem predates that.

 

I think Les was thinking the XF fix, not the 300. Well good luck Dave, as I am tearing into a steering column looking for a short in the emergency flasher switch. No brake lights until you wiggle the flasher switch. My truck dealership hates tracking down all the fault codes. It is usually voltage related in most cases. I can ignore most of mine, but since you have to pass an emissions test, I know you can't. 54 sensors in my truck. A lot of unplugging and plugging back in checking with an ohm meter... Good luck...

 

The same fix is applicable to the 300, lock to lock. It is for the sensor in the steering column.

 

Wow...more Daimler in there than I thought...or vice versa...

 

Unfortunately that trouble code reading trick doesn't seem to work on my SRT8 . . .

 

It should, its on the 300 Forum, I think that if you do not do it correctly it is a no go but.............
Try starting the sequence from Off and then try from the ACC position. Sometimes it seems to work from one and then the other.

 

ON-ACC doesn't work on my 07 but I just use Torque or Touchscan to read & clear codes.

 

The handheld scanner(s) will not pull a code for this wheel sensor issue. I'm going to try and pull codes using my Eurocharge laptop software. It has a code scanning feature on it.

 

Met up with Sparkie at his house and changed the wheel sensor in his large heated garage. Cleared the codes but the ESP/BAS and ABS lights stayed on.
Do these stay on until it has been driven for a while, require a dealer to clear them or has the problem not been fixed?
The error code does not show up on the dash, it never showed up on my Innova code reader.

 

My code reader would not clear the code for me......I had to spend the $35 to have the tech at the dealer clear it and the light finally went off after that.....it never did throw a code that my scanner could read.

 

Do you know anyone with a Diablo Predator/Trinity or Superchips 3825? Or a dashdaq for that matter. It wouldn't hurt to try and erase the codes with any of them.

Les

 

Thanks for the response guys, but I took the car for a drive and ALL the codes appeared again and the CEL light on the dash is lit up.
Back to square one.

ESP/BAS and ABS lights were on with no U1417 code set, now the code is set.
P1004 code has re-appeared as well. I have a new part coming that should fix that.
The AC code P0645 is there but I'm ignoring it till it gets warm out.
To the dealer now, I give up.
Edit
P1004 code cleared with the new short runner solenoid installed.
Now off to the dealers.

 

With the P1004 code cleared for good with the installation of the Short Runner Solenoid I took the car in to the local garage.
I told them that the code indicated a faulty front left wheel speed sensor. They called back and said the fault lay in the rear left wheel speed sensor. I did see a post on the 300C forum of a similar problem whereby it was the rear and not the front. Wrong code numbering in the book or?
Anyway the rear was fixed and the Xmas tree lights on the dash are out.
Now to drive it a few miles and then get the cars biannual E test for the plate sticker.

 

Happy to hear you finally got it sorted out. Now I have to tackle the same issue that I have on one of my SRT8s. No trouble code found but the ESP / BAS / ABS lights are on. It was an intermittent problem earlier but now seems to be a permanent problem. Guess the easiest fix will be to just have all four wheel speed sensors replaced. Pretty amazing that one can't rely on the trouble code to be accurate indication of the problem . . .

 

I don't think changing the rear speed sensors is as easy as changing the fronts.

 

I think that changing everything might get a little expensive and a waste of money. The rears are different from the front. The front has a sensor and a exciter in the hub with the bearing. On the rear the exciter is in the axle and requires replacement of the axle.
My fix cost $500, all around it would have cost at least $1,800.
The garage had a computer that read my error as a rear fault not a front one.

 

Good information . . . never too old or too smart to learn something new.

I don't work on my fleet cars myself. Rather than take this one to my local mechanic I might just have to take it to the Chrysler Stealership and let them fix it. I have a good relationship with them and know the service manager well enough to feel that I won't get screwed too badly.

 

Got to laugh..........you know your going to get screwed, just hoping not too badly.

 

When you say "exciter", do you mean the toothed wheel in the hub or on the axle ? Barring an accident these rarely fail since there is nothing to wear and they are steel. I have seen them get clogged and need cleaning but that is it.


The sensor OTOH is a hall effect trigger that also rarely fails however the weak point is the sensor wiring (something in the Florida air loves to eat rubber). The fronts particularly move with the wheel and the cable is liable to crack. I keep a can of marine "liquid rubber" around to teat ABS sensor wiring. Sensor should be in the $60-$90 range.


Am not surprised that the error codes might be less than accurate, if a wheel sensor is indicated, first thing I do is to raise the car, remove the wheels, and check for a cracked, frayed, or twisted sensor lead. The defect is usually quite visible.