Horsepower
The Eurocharge Tune is about 300 dollars when on special. Best bang for the buck. 24hp
Lots of other things to do including what TomSRT noted. The Needswings CAI (single or double), etc. It gets into more money though, but I'd say for about 1200 you can do most all of the mods and I believe end up somewhere in the 260ish HP range if done properly.
I'm happy with my tune.
Lots of other things to do including what TomSRT noted. The Needswings CAI (single or double), etc. It gets into more money though, but I'd say for about 1200 you can do most all of the mods and I believe end up somewhere in the 260ish HP range if done properly.
I'm happy with my tune.
I will endorsewhat PNA said 100%.
Three elements wil get you more power;
1) get more and cooler air to theengine
2) get less restriction in the exhaustto get that additional air volume thru the engin
3) Get a performance tune.
In addition, you can change out the injectors to get more fuel to the engine. And you can get a larger throttle body.
A dyno tune will take that 260 HP higher. Arguably into the 275 range or more.
One "performance" mod is a Sprint Booster" There are several available from members here. It doesn't add HP but does improve accelerationby modifying the throttle signal from thepedal tothe Engine control system.
At no cost to you, is a throttle reset. Do a search here for the proceedure.
Some put stickers on their cars assuming it improves performance. Don't laugh, there are stickers that actually help. One says Eurocharged and the other says Needswings.
Three elements wil get you more power;
1) get more and cooler air to theengine
2) get less restriction in the exhaustto get that additional air volume thru the engin
3) Get a performance tune.
In addition, you can change out the injectors to get more fuel to the engine. And you can get a larger throttle body.
A dyno tune will take that 260 HP higher. Arguably into the 275 range or more.
One "performance" mod is a Sprint Booster" There are several available from members here. It doesn't add HP but does improve accelerationby modifying the throttle signal from thepedal tothe Engine control system.
At no cost to you, is a throttle reset. Do a search here for the proceedure.
Some put stickers on their cars assuming it improves performance. Don't laugh, there are stickers that actually help. One says Eurocharged and the other says Needswings.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Mar 11, 2014 at 10:41 AM.
Then add the adjustable camber to the rear of your car, get the rear end realigned a bit, come to the dragon and learn to drive like Franc and no one will keep up with you. 
HICKORY? What state is that in?
HICKORY? What state is that in?
HICKORY? What state is that in?
Read this thread for actual dyno figures on NA and SRT's.
Add what is considered to be the approximate percentage losses due to drive train losses and you should see what the approximate gross hp is at the crank..
What is a typical loss ? Lets say 20%. So if we had a car putting out 200 hp on the dyno we would be seeing 80% of the gross power. (200 ÷ 80) x 100 = 250 hp.
Add what is considered to be the approximate percentage losses due to drive train losses and you should see what the approximate gross hp is at the crank..
What is a typical loss ? Lets say 20%. So if we had a car putting out 200 hp on the dyno we would be seeing 80% of the gross power. (200 ÷ 80) x 100 = 250 hp.
Last edited by onehundred80; Mar 11, 2014 at 12:11 PM.
That is what I thought, he's a bit farther from the Dragon, but given the roads, he could be there faster than I can.
So, why are you not on the attendance list for April 3, pcurchette?
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...il-2014-a.html
So, why are you not on the attendance list for April 3, pcurchette?
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...il-2014-a.html
These cars should be closer to 15-18%.
Otherwise we would have got (200 ÷ 85) x 100 = 235.3 hp at the crank which would have been very disappointing to some.
This figure is not even close to those numbers.
If you thought you had 290 at the crank then the hp on the dyno would be 232 to 246.5 hp. Not close again to the stated dyno numbers.
6 years ago and since, we have had members complaining at the 30% parasitic loss shown via the baseline dyno reads.
I was 143 hp at the wheel with engine specs at a supposed 215 HP at the crank.
Keep in mind the dynos are possibly different and give different reads depending on ambient conditions.
To see actual gains one must attempt consistant conditions and testing calibrations. The percentage of gain measured at the wheel. And that value can be interpreted mathematicaly from the crank but not measured precisely.
I was 143 hp at the wheel with engine specs at a supposed 215 HP at the crank.
Keep in mind the dynos are possibly different and give different reads depending on ambient conditions.
To see actual gains one must attempt consistant conditions and testing calibrations. The percentage of gain measured at the wheel. And that value can be interpreted mathematicaly from the crank but not measured precisely.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Mar 11, 2014 at 04:19 PM.
I had a similar issue with my baseline, 280-ish. Even with the fuses pulled, the car still let off at around 5200rpm... After much head scratching, we discovered it was the speed governor that was stopping us.
Spoke with EC about this and they said when establishing baseline on the xf/slk/etc they make a 3rd gear run versus 4th as the numbers are nearly identical.
Fwiw, of course...
Spoke with EC about this and they said when establishing baseline on the xf/slk/etc they make a 3rd gear run versus 4th as the numbers are nearly identical.
Fwiw, of course...
6 years ago and since, we have had members complaining at the 30% parasitic loss shown via the baseline dyno reads.
I was 143 hp at the wheel with engine specs at a supposed 215 HP at the crank.
Keep in mind the dynos are possibly different and give different reads depending on ambient conditions.
To see actual gains one must attempt consistant conditions and testing calibrations. The percentage of gain measured at the wheel. And that value can be interpreted mathematicaly from the crank but not measured precisely.
I was 143 hp at the wheel with engine specs at a supposed 215 HP at the crank.
Keep in mind the dynos are possibly different and give different reads depending on ambient conditions.
To see actual gains one must attempt consistant conditions and testing calibrations. The percentage of gain measured at the wheel. And that value can be interpreted mathematicaly from the crank but not measured precisely.
I've seen the 170whp number thrown around a lot. Like stated earlier though, every dyno is different, calibrated differently therefore reading differently. I've seen dyno sheets for E55's ranging from 360whp to 440whp. That's a pretty huge difference and almost everytime they all run around 12 flat in the quarter lol.
I don't believe I passed much more than 170 ATW on the first tune up.
Dave, I can only relay the numbers I was given. I cannot change them just to please you.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Mar 11, 2014 at 08:36 PM.
I had a similar issue with my baseline, 280-ish. Even with the fuses pulled, the car still let off at around 5200rpm... After much head scratching, we discovered it was the speed governor that was stopping us.
Spoke with EC about this and they said when establishing baseline on the xf/slk/etc they make a 3rd gear run versus 4th as the numbers are nearly identical.
Fwiw, of course...
Spoke with EC about this and they said when establishing baseline on the xf/slk/etc they make a 3rd gear run versus 4th as the numbers are nearly identical.
Fwiw, of course...
Many do change the numbers just to please themselves.


