It is the 2004 automatic coupe crossfire. About year ago I had the no start problem which ended up being the RCM. After doing some soldering the no start problem went away and the car has run flawless until a month ago. Went to start the car and all the dash board lights came on along with the fin in the back going all the way up, but it would not start. I decided to go ahead and resolder the RCM and replace the battery none of which fixed the problem. Strange thing is if I try at it long enough the car will start and run fine until you turn it off then it goes back to not starting.

I also noticed when I could get it started the fin would never go down nor would the light stop flashing. Gave up on it after a few weeks and had it delivered to a dealership to have it look at. I was told today that the PCM will need to be replaced which is little over two thousands dollars. Before I give them the go ahead I like to hear if anyone else has come across a similar issue. I read the forum but so far their fixes hasn't worked for my car.

 

with the engine off, use a GOOD multimeter and measure across the battery terminals.
Write this down ( ex : 12.33 volts )
Now measure from the positive terminal to any good contact area on the engine.
You should see very little difference.
Even if the readings are the same, leave it hooked up this way and wiggle the heck out of the negative battery cable towards the fender frame ground point.
If the voltage then changes, clean up the ground connection or replace the negative cable.

Even if you DO decide to replace the PTCM, go to car-part.com and see if you can find one.
I'm pretty sure they are the same in the 2001-2004 SLK320, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I also do not think these need any coding, just plug and play.

 

Now that you mentioned it, the car didn't come with the original ground cable for the battery when I purchased it. The grounding cable looks like the type you would buy from Autozone. I'll run over to the dealer with a multimeter and check the voltage to see what happens.

 

If someone would simply put a voltmeter on the leads to the pulse module, it is easy to tell if the PTCM is enabling it or not. Now, MAYBE some dealer tech did that, but I SERIOUSLY doubt it.

Sounds to me like they are guessing.

 

George, isn't the PTcm located alongside the amplifier in the passenger side foot well, might it be a good idea to check for moisture or corrosion at the connection?

 

No, it is in the box by the battery along with the RCM and BCM

 

I must have been thinking about the TCM.

 

Fuya,

Any updates on your Crossfire? I recently started a thread related to a no-crank issue I am having which had worsened from an occasional no-start issue. I tried the RCM re-solder and installed a new battery too. Nothing. Some of the symptoms I have experienced - spoiler deploys when key is turned or is always deployed and it cannot be retracted; brake, ABS, BAS/ESP, brake wear MILs; check engine MIL when P0600 is triggered; speedometer failure, transmission stuck in park, and when previously running, limited to limp mode.

A BIG problem that presents itself if your PCM is actually bad is that most Chrysler dealerships probably aren't going to let you bring your privately acquired unit in. They will likely want to source it new directly from an authorized supplier, which = $2K+. Another BIG problem is that the PCM is not a plug and play item. It has to be programmed via the DRB III tool to work with your specific vehicle. So you are severely limited to who can even do the repair. Does anyone know if skilled independent euro motors specialty shops have the ability to interface in a DRB III-like manner?

One thing that is really bugging me now, besides my own Crossfire debacle, is that when you look down the list of threads in this part of the forum the majority of the issues all seem to have the commonality of poor, over-complex electrical system design resulting in a non-running vehicle. I preferred the days when the visible issues like rusting doors and hazed headlights were all the rage.

 

2004 crossfire bought from someone.had to order a key for it took it to Chrysler but they weren't very bright so car will crank first two tries then dies after that it won't let I crank anymore. Almost like a lock out mode or like there's no chip in key. Please help

 

Dreareyes, those are the symptoms of a SKREEM module failure.
Rob at NeedsWings.com can now supply these pre-programmed, contact him.

 

Where did you get the key from?

 

from chrysler

 

it did set a skreem code what exactly is that?

 

You purchased a car, purchased a key. Why did you have to purchase a key?
Please tell all the facts, no key so how did you drive it or did you drive it?
Lots of info missing here.
We need the whole story.

 

I had to buy a key because I bought from a private party.have never driven it yet.

 

Is it possible that the seller knew that the car would not start because of a problem so he or she kept the keys to hide that fact from you?
What was their excuse for having no keys?