My car had no power at all, it wouldn't start. It's not the battery, or alternator. Yesterday the starter engaged about 3 times and died. i eventually was able to start the engine with the battery terminal change. The old one was losse and wouldn't adjust. I inspected the module and the 20 amp fuse was bad. I repaired it and soldered the the 3 spots. No change, I replace the battery terminal and the car starts now. But it won't shut off no matter what. Next day I bought a module for $198 from the Benz dl. It still won't turn off.
Is there a quick fuse I can't pull to turn the car off?
I been pulling a harness off the module to shut the car off. I went to work doing this steps.
Where to i check for the next for solution?

 

Fuel pump fuse.

 

You bought the relay module? So after the relay module replacement the car now starts but won't shut off?

Put the original relay module in, same symptoms?

I think I missed what happened between no start then no shut off. What all was done between this two things?

 

The crossfire won't turn off

Wait, what?

 

I guess he'll have to drive it till it runs out of gas, LOL!

 

You don't have one of those damn remote starters or push button start mods, do you?
Cause if so, I'm DONE in this thread.

 

Hi all, the original module and new module did not make a difference.
The python remote start hasn't worked in 4 years.

Which one is the fuel pump fuse? (1st 15 amp fuse on the module?)
(Edited) Last night I was able to rule out the kenwood amplifier cable and it's capacitor. I move all the positive battery cables to an isolator switch. Now the car starts, I am positive the battery had a bad connect and this started all the car problems.

Going back over the car problems and to clarify things. I replaced the battery 2 weeks ago. No change in gadget add ons since 2014. And 3 days ago driving home the car' s electric power turned off an on by itself on two occasions the engine kept running, I checked the terminals they seemed ok. I put the trinkle charge on it. Next morning it wouldn't start. I think it was a bad battery connection. Because as I mentioned all the power went off. The battery, alternator tested fine. The only visual problem were a burned out fuse on the module, week souter on the module and a stripped negative battery terminal. I started by getting the Optima Red top out and trying another battery. Then the module and last the terminals, now started and it won't turn off.

 

Will not start, will not switch off, we have various symptoms spread over three thread.
Combine them all in one post please I am confused.
Pulse module and ignition switch come to mind when I analyze what
I understand.

 

This changes everything.

Please disregard all advice previous.

It is possible for any component to go bad at any point in time and start causing a draw on the battery. We can only help you with Crossfire things since we do not know the add ons nor how they were installed.

If this were my car I would hook everything up as was when the symptoms started then look for the device causing a draw on the battery when the car is just sitting there. Do you know your way around a volt ohm amp meter? You have a monster of a diagnosis ahead of you. Work through it one step at a time. Throwing hand grenade solutions (IE: let me try this fix, then that fix, then another fix) at the car will only compound the problem until you know the exact cause.

 

My apologies I have been writing on the go, with my annoying phone. I will go back through and correct the post above.


The car problem continues, removing the fuses on the control module did not turn off the engine. On removing the 1st module harness turn off the car. I did this 6 time already going to work and back. The voltage on the capacitor and Amplifier read 14.00. I pulled the fuse on the stereo positive going to the battery. I can put on my drag racing ECU and see if it goes away. I just have driving in the city with those settings.

 

Don't know if any info here will help. When I turn my car off, it continues to run and will not shut off. Why? | American Autowire

 

I does help. I will have a look at the alternator plug. I made an appointment to have the Python Alarm/remote start taken out, it can do keyless entry but the other features don't work anymore. I am thinking about having the shop put on an alarm with a starter kill.

 

I have spent 31 years troubleshooting complex electronic equipment to the component level from DC to microwave frequencies. I hold a degree in electronics, an FCC license (two actually), a senior journeyman CET and several other industry certifications - I speak not to offend, but to inform and advise you, ok?

So........
How many drugs did you do as a kid?
(Ok, that WAS insulting but it was meant to be funny)

Look.........
You have an ABORTION of an 'accessory' and you are going to mod the car AGAIN in such a way as to make diagnosing electrical issues hard AGAIN?

Diagnosing electrical issues is hard enough for the average person, (and a VOLTMETER does not tell you what current is flowing, for instance) - why complicate things with such odd items? Restore the car to factory (if you can, they may have done such an abortion on the car putting the remote in that it is almost hopeless), and we can go from there.

I can tell from your posts you are not comfortable with electrical troubleshooting. I advise putting the car back to factory and THEN seeing what you have.

 

The alternator is a dead end in a Crossfire,I am almost 100% certain of this statement. I know what they are talking about, but if you follow the "idiot light" line from the secondary rectifiers of the alternator into the instrument panel, you will see what I mean.

Admittedly, the service manual diagrams are (intentionally) incomplete, but my point is there is no path to the engine control relay nor to the SKREEM.

Sure, I could be wrong - easy way to prove it:

Unsnap the little plug from the back of the alternator. Start car. Turn ignition off.
Engine still runs - Pizza is a fool. (The time-space continuum collapses.)
Engine does not still run - Pizza is right. (The universe continues on as it always has.)


As to their SECOND point (What did I say in the post above?), well, hard to argue with them.

 

As I said earlier, the thing that stops most cars is the ignition switch so I would look at it, maybe the key and the switch behind it are not meshing of the switch is shorting out. Start somewhere simple and go from there,

If it starts by itself the ignition switch would trigger the pulse module. Having the ignition on all the time would drain a battery. The dash lights go out when the key is between the on and start position so you may not know the ignition is actually on.

 

Please stop with the hand grenade fixes. Adding accy's to an already broken car is only digging yourself in deeper. You don't want to go there with a Crossfire.

Ditto what Pizza says.

When you have TWO electronics guys saying don't go there.......please...... don't go there.

 

Problem solved cost $99 to remove a Python 2 way Alarm with remote start. It's been 10 years of ownership, that alarm didn't survive.

I started restoring the finish on the Stern ST1 wheels from 2006. Here is a preview pic of the front passenger wheel in Carbon black the old finish was hypher black.

 

No thanks forthcoming for the Pizzaman?
I'd say he was due some thanks for pinpointing the problem, maybe even some for those that wasted their time.
Please and thanks are words that cost nothing but seldom seen on this forum.

 

Thanks Pizza, KDW, Bill, onehundred, all others. Bill let me know when you go to coffee and cars again. I just need to finish the wheels.

You are all great assets to the crossfire community. * btw, there is a lot going on on the other side of the chat.

 

Maybe we lack a real life.