no start
Re: no start
More information is needed like SRT or na? Automatic or straight drive? And we have to assume it's a coupe. Which module did you change? What other components have you changed on the car? When it turns over does it even attempt to start or does it just turn over ?
Re: no start
#1 - does it have spark ? ( remove one wire from a coil pack and hold it real close to the socket and see if it sparks while trying to start )
#2 - does it have fuel ? ( check for pressure at the test port front passenger side of the engine, kinda like a big tire valve, push the schrader valve with something, don't have your eyes near )
If both 1 & 2, then just maybe a PTCM, but they very seldom ever fail.
O, and make sure you don't have any blown fuses anywhere.
#2 - does it have fuel ? ( check for pressure at the test port front passenger side of the engine, kinda like a big tire valve, push the schrader valve with something, don't have your eyes near )
If both 1 & 2, then just maybe a PTCM, but they very seldom ever fail.
O, and make sure you don't have any blown fuses anywhere.
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Re: no start
While PTCMs can fail, in 6 years and 80,000 miles of owning three Crossfires, and spending all this time on this forum, I think I can remember ONE PTCM that failed.
If the car spins over with the starter, we must determine if we have spark and at least 50 pounds of fuel pressure BEFORE we go anywhere else. Common "it turns over but won't start" causes:
1) Bad Crank sensor
2) Bad Cam sensor (kinda rare but it does fail)
3) Bad battery - (yes, it may spin the engine but not start the engine, odd I know, but I've seen it several times)
4) No fuel pressure (bad fuel pump relay, fractured solder on the Relay control module - both can be fixed with a new RCM for about $129)
5) Low fuel pressure (due to screwed up fuel pump or fuel filter/regulator)
Notice that ANY of these can fail and only 1) or 2) will throw a code and light the Check Engine light - and often, they fail and even THEY don't light the light - this, I think, leads many desparate techs to toss expensive modules at the problem. THey've already tossed one module at it and that didn't work, did it?
Last edited by pizzaguy; 07-17-2016 at 10:00 AM.
Re: no start
Here is some help for you - get the car out of there.
While PTCMs can fail, in 6 years and 80,000 miles of owning three Crossfires, and spending all this time on this forum, I think I can remember ONE PTCM that failed.
If the car spins over with the starter, we must determine if we have spark and at least 50 pounds of fuel pressure BEFORE we go anywhere else. Common "it turns over but won't start" causes:
1) Bad Crank sensor
2) Bad Cam sensor (kinda rare but it does fail)
3) Bad battery - (yes, it may spin the engine but not start the engine, odd I know, but I've seen it several times)
4) No fuel pressure (bad fuel pump relay, fractured solder on the Relay control module - both can be fixed with a new RCM for about $129)
5) Low fuel pressure (due to screwed up fuel pump or fuel filter/regulator)
Notice that ANY of these can fail and only 1) or 2) will throw a code and light the Check Engine light - and often, they fail and even THEY don't light the light - this, I think, leads many desparate techs to toss expensive modules at the problem. THey've already tossed one module at it and that didn't work, did it?
While PTCMs can fail, in 6 years and 80,000 miles of owning three Crossfires, and spending all this time on this forum, I think I can remember ONE PTCM that failed.
If the car spins over with the starter, we must determine if we have spark and at least 50 pounds of fuel pressure BEFORE we go anywhere else. Common "it turns over but won't start" causes:
1) Bad Crank sensor
2) Bad Cam sensor (kinda rare but it does fail)
3) Bad battery - (yes, it may spin the engine but not start the engine, odd I know, but I've seen it several times)
4) No fuel pressure (bad fuel pump relay, fractured solder on the Relay control module - both can be fixed with a new RCM for about $129)
5) Low fuel pressure (due to screwed up fuel pump or fuel filter/regulator)
Notice that ANY of these can fail and only 1) or 2) will throw a code and light the Check Engine light - and often, they fail and even THEY don't light the light - this, I think, leads many desparate techs to toss expensive modules at the problem. THey've already tossed one module at it and that didn't work, did it?
Ditto! Well said! I replaced RCM due to stalling, (needed fixing asap). Then the crank sensor (Bosch) due to cranking & no start. (Rock Auto & Amazon; minimal parts cost & my free labor) All is well!
The check engine light only came on after my repairs and then cleared itself when driven.
LORD have mercy if your car is in a Chrysler shop (at least 99% of them). "Search" will reveal hours & hours of input*
Last edited by lovecross; 07-17-2016 at 12:58 PM. Reason: correction
Re: no start
It is hard to help when you do not know what sensor was replaced and have added little to the discussion. As it is you are left to the tender mercies of a shop that knows little about the car but knows how to replace parts, adding them to your invoice until it does start, maybe.
Re: no start
cranking w/no start is usually bad crank sensor. Chrysler part cost way too high, oem Bosch part available online, much less. If you need a shop always try to find a reputable import/German specialty shop.
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Re: no start
Ok, using my ninja-like powers, I found this original thread. Try to find out from your invoice/statement/bill what they replaced.
Then TELL US.
So, from what I am reading, they replaced SOMETHING and now the car turns over but won't run.
SO, did it 'turn over but not run' before they touched it? Or did it not even turn over before they changed the module? WHICH IS IT?
We have GOT to have answers to these questions in order to help you. Be patient and informative - and keep in mind that SIMPLE CHEAP stuff can fail and keep the car from starting - and yet, not set a code. That is to say, if you are not experienced with the Crossfire or the SLK320, you will be lost - as in the case with your car and your shop.
If it is turning over and not starting, the Crank sensor, the battery and a lack of fuel flow/pressure (bad pump, bad fuel filter/regulator, bad solder or relay on the RCM that feeds the pump) would be the first things I'd check.
As to fuel issues, in the Roadsters (and I BET in the coupes as well), if you are QUIET and you turn the key to "ON" BUT DO NOT TURN THE KEY ALL THE WAY TO START - (This is after the car has sat overnight), you will hear the fuel pump run for about 3-4 seconds. If you do not hear the hum of the pump OR if you hear it and it never stops humming - I think you are about to find your issue! If you don't hear the pump, the RCM relay or solder is probably the issue. If you hear it and it won't stop humming, then the pump is bad, the regulator is bad - OR the car is out of gas!
Then TELL US.
So, from what I am reading, they replaced SOMETHING and now the car turns over but won't run.
SO, did it 'turn over but not run' before they touched it? Or did it not even turn over before they changed the module? WHICH IS IT?
We have GOT to have answers to these questions in order to help you. Be patient and informative - and keep in mind that SIMPLE CHEAP stuff can fail and keep the car from starting - and yet, not set a code. That is to say, if you are not experienced with the Crossfire or the SLK320, you will be lost - as in the case with your car and your shop.
If it is turning over and not starting, the Crank sensor, the battery and a lack of fuel flow/pressure (bad pump, bad fuel filter/regulator, bad solder or relay on the RCM that feeds the pump) would be the first things I'd check.
As to fuel issues, in the Roadsters (and I BET in the coupes as well), if you are QUIET and you turn the key to "ON" BUT DO NOT TURN THE KEY ALL THE WAY TO START - (This is after the car has sat overnight), you will hear the fuel pump run for about 3-4 seconds. If you do not hear the hum of the pump OR if you hear it and it never stops humming - I think you are about to find your issue! If you don't hear the pump, the RCM relay or solder is probably the issue. If you hear it and it won't stop humming, then the pump is bad, the regulator is bad - OR the car is out of gas!
Last edited by pizzaguy; 07-30-2016 at 11:17 PM.
Re: no start
I have my car back from shop. after they put a relay in .. it started from 3 weeks . 2 block from house it cut off and did not start again.. I hope i dont have a $6500 paper weight. The shop said that they think it the PCM/ECM but do not know for sure. I need some help please!!!!
Re: no start
Once again, as pizzaguy said, what are the EXACT symptoms ?
[ ] turn key, dash lights up but engine does not turn over.
[ ] turn key, engine turns over but does not start. Do this three times, then nothing when key is turned. Disconnect battery, reconnect then same 3 strikes and you are out scenario.
[ ] engine starts, idles rough, sometimes stalls.
I believe you stated that the 'relay' was replaced. was this the 'Relay Control Module' ( RCM ) ?
Have you replaced the CPS ? ( Crankshaft Position Sensor )
Is this a manual or automatic transmission ?
[ ] turn key, dash lights up but engine does not turn over.
[ ] turn key, engine turns over but does not start. Do this three times, then nothing when key is turned. Disconnect battery, reconnect then same 3 strikes and you are out scenario.
[ ] engine starts, idles rough, sometimes stalls.
I believe you stated that the 'relay' was replaced. was this the 'Relay Control Module' ( RCM ) ?
Have you replaced the CPS ? ( Crankshaft Position Sensor )
Is this a manual or automatic transmission ?
Re: no start
I have my car back from shop. after they put a relay in .. it started from 3 weeks . 2 block from house it cut off and did not start again.. I hope i dont have a $6500 paper weight. The shop said that they think it the PCM/ECM but do not know for sure. I need some help please!!!!
Re: no start
The CPS is not even a factor until AFTER the engine is turning.
How could it possibly generate any signals if the flywheel is stationary ?
Re: no start
I am not going to bother here too much anymore, stick to newer interests.
Re: no start
Look, even we Canucks can make a misstatement, OMG! New girlfriend? We'll keep it confidential! "If the engine does not" fire...(no spark: probably crank sensor but "ecenterprise" not helping him/her self much with lack of info/effort.)
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Re: no start
Please recheck yourself, Any input is better than none. I know you can contribute to the masses! Sometimes, people think they do not count, BULLSHEIT!.
Stay... get it?
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