Hello to all,

i have Crossfire 2004 and whole winter time stay in garage without batery.
Now i charge batery and try to start, but first time only start engine abouth 2 second and stop.
I check fuel in ramp,fuel pump and diagnostic everythuing fine. Now i try start and engine only spins with out any ignition.
I try measurement voltage goes to coil but zero. Maybe some relay is bad?
Can you help me or something idea? THX

 

danulah
Welcome to the forum, a few questions about your no start.....

1.) How old is the battery?
2.) Did you have the battery on a battery tender charging while it was out of the car?
3.) If the battery is newer, less than 2 years old? Crossfire is very sensitive to lower voltage and will create issues.
4.) If all of the answers to 1-3 are yes then it may be the Relay Control Module
5.) Use the SEARCH button at the top of the main page and search RCM and it will give you all of the information about the no start you are encountering

Good Luck...
Dennis
DTMenace

 

battery is only one year old and stay on charger 1,2Amp.
starter going good
i try soldering this modul but nothing new

 

Just cause the charger is good doesn't mean the battery is too, even if you check voltage on the battery that doesn't necessarily mean it good either, I would swap out for a brand new battery, and see what happens, you can always go right back and return the new battery. Or better yet if your battery is under warranty just take it in and exchange it. They may or may not test it and tell you if they think it's good, autozone for example will do this. I'd also check your main fuses that might prevent a start, so the ones on the relay you are soldering and some of the ones in the under hood fuse box. Also check your connector plugs going to the ecu and those relays to make sure they are all seated good and not corroded, unplug, visually inspect and clean if necessary and plug back in. I had a crossfire that had surface corrosion on a plug going to either the ecu or relays, it would start, barely but started with new battery, then ran like it had a misfire, and had no acceleration. Cleaned the corrosion and all was fine.

 

Engine spins and not start is a sign of the Crankshaft Position Sensor being at fault.
Have you looked in the air filter area for a mouse nest? No air = no start. Slim chance it is this but rodents cause damage in cars in the winter.

 

Another vote for crankshaft position sensor, worth a try. Majority/"popular" vote might win & change embarrassingly low turnout into grateness.

 

This sensor i change last year diagnostic without any fault

 

I do not understand:

first after winter time connect batery and engine start but after 2 second going off
now engine only spin maybe without spark plug
fuses and relays are ok

 

The CPS used should be a Bosch part, the others have proven to be not so reliable.
Remove the connector from the CPS and make sure that it is not corroded, some of the other CPS makes have smaller pins and do not fit the socket too well and cause a bad connection.
The CPS does not move and many feel it should not fail. Check that connection.

 

Agreed, I believe my connector worked loose a little, after CPS replacement, because I broke it's outside retaining clip. I secured it after that. Maybe failure heat related? Maybe magnetism weakens over time/use? Just guessing. I think he's saying no spark condition.

 

results from Google search seem to indicate that the neodymium magnets ( which this probably is ) can be degraded over by time with exposure to temperatures exceeding 80 C ( 176 F ).
Since our engines run at 186 F, I would think this could be a factor.

 

OK why can't we rebuild one then?
Magnets like this are cheap, the magnet is not welded in place, yank it off and replace it.
My spare is in the trunk under lots of junk so I cannot look at it too easily.

 

Because it is a magnet wrapped in a certain number of turns of a certain gauge wire then encased in the plastic shell.

Yeas ago ( 60's, 70's ) when I was in the field servicing computer equipment, some of it had these but they were then called 'reluctance heads'.
They were used for the same purpose, generating pulses to tell electronics how fast something was turning and what the current relative position was.
They were like a threaded bolt though, you could adjust them to a certain distance from the spinning 'reluctor'.
I never did know why, but sometimes they would just fail to send a signal of sufficient strength to work correctly regardless of adjustment and would have to be replaced.

We have 4 more of these, the 'tone' wheel pickups for the ABS, they don't seem to fail with the same frequency as the CPS.
I do still believe however that the connector to the CPS is a large part of the problem in that it either does not provide sufficient contact on the pins, or is prone to corrosion due to it's design.

 

I change new CPS form Bosch,new battery but everything is same.

Engine only spin but no ignition. Spark plugs are ok and doing spark.

Another idea ??? THX

 

Can you pull a spark plug and see if it wet from gasoline. Sparks and gas may not start an engine but there should be a noise of some form.
If the system says it is OK to spark I think it may feel it OK to inject gasoline.
No gasoline may point to the fuel system being at fault.
Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key to the accessory position?
If not there lies the problem, pump or fuse maybe, fuel filter?

 

Two sure tests :
1. for the spark, hold the metal part of a screwdriver and poke it into a coil pack while standing on a wet concrete floor. If nothing happens, you have no spark, otherwise you have spark, have someone dial 911.
2. for the fuel, remove the cap from the test port on the fuel rail and have someone try to start the car while you push in the Schrader valve and observe with a lighted BIC lighter. If you and the car survive, there is no fuel delivery, otherwise the problem will be solved anyway by buying a new car.

ONLY KIDDING !!! DO NOT ATTEMPT EITHER (1) OR (2), BUT YOU SHOULD GET THE IDEA !!!!!!!

 

Do you hear the fuel pump for a couple of seconds after the key is turned to the ON position?
Could be the fuel relay in the RCM.


Check for pressure at the fuel rail on the engine.

 

Fuel is oki fuel pump ok,fuel in ramp,spark plugs are wet.
I try buy new 12 plugs from NGK but service manul say IFR5D10 and NGK catalog say IFR6D10 it is same or which are correct? Thank you

 

Can't answer that, but I seriously doubt that spark plugs would keep it from starting, we do have two plugs per cylinder after all.
2 or 3 bad plugs would just make it run rough, but it would still start.

 

Today i change all spark plugs. Engine now start but only for max 2 second.

It is problem with IMOBILISER ?

Thank you for any idea.