which brings us back to this:
" "

so, what now? will be willing to send money?
guys?

 

I have a question.

Last year, I ordered a Skeem, key, and antenna ring from Needwings.

My Mercedes guy said I needed the antenna ring but I ordered the entire setup. They replaced the antenna and the old key starts the car but the new key does not.

Does anyone have any ideas what the issue is? Should I put the new skeem in as well?

The old key is the only one I have and it's in bad shape.

Thanks for the help.

 

I would say the car still has the old SKREEM in it.

 

The antenna ring isn't needed if the old one is not defectiv.
I don't know if the new Skreem from Needwings is a Clone of the old Skrem. In the Skreem are 8 keys programmed (the codes for the Transponder) key 1 and 2 is always used by the original keys.
I suppose, because nobody has managed to clone a transponder yet, that the transponders themselves still have a kind of serial number. And this number will be married with the Skreem when you use it for the first time.
That means if you have two transponders which have the correct code to unlock the immobiliser, they are unique because of the serial number and the transponder which is first used with the Skreem works, the other does not.
Would mean for you if the new key of Needwings is one with the code of key 1 or 2 and the workshop as suspected by onehundred80 has not installed the new Skreem module or has installed the new one and first used one of your old keys the new one can not work.
This is only a guess until now, because I can't create a transponder to verify this because I don't have the right hardware.

 

what about this? https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ogether-3.html see post 49

 

The ECU shown there is different from ours.
With ours it is not necessary to desolder the EEPROM, it can be read and written on the board as mentioned above.

 

Thanks phil for taking the time and making the effort to keep searching.
The video was a little hard to watch like most of youtube. I was amazed to see the use of a heat gun ON the chip. Never realized they could withstand the heat in order to melt the solder. I see he replaced the capacitors. Back in the 80s many failures were due to the dielectric drying out in them. Someone mentioned using a ZIF socket to easily remove and replace the eprom. I still suspect the solution could be to get around the skreem altogether by making the ecu think it has perpetually verified the security but I'm way out of my league. Sometimes the answer starts out of the mouth of babes..
I have a lost co-worker that took at least one of his crossfires out of state and had the security removed. I'm going to try and locate him to ask just what it took to do that. Hope it isn't a dead end..

 

" I have a lost co-worker that took at least one of his crossfires out of state and had the security removed. I'm going to try and locate him to ask just what it took to do that. Hope it isn't a dead end.."

terrific news.
we all wish you succeed reaching him and getting the details...
that would be the best way.

 

That were amazing!

 

I realize it sounds like more bullshit and I should have deferred to post until I had something believable but I have located the person who currently owns an 05 SRT6 that has eliminated the security. The folk involved have been reliable people in the past so I am anxious and hopeful for myself and everyone else to have a viable solution. If it turns out to be a loser I'll own up to it..

 

now, to add to the confusion, there are these available: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/223576786595

where did they get them?
what has to be done to have them functioning?

 

THIS IS GREAT NEWS ,

I hope this means that any cut key will start our cars if this works it will fix this horrible problem we all do and possibly suffer from a potential skreem failure. I wish we could gut the skreem and throw them all away .

 

And now is where I've learned something. The friend to which I spoke just called me and I got the story. He's a member here on CrossfireForum.org. The story got to me 3rd hand and what he had done was a tune that removed the speed governor. I suppose it is a fuel cutoff when the vehicle exceeds the tire speed rating. Not even close to a security system bypass. I'm truly sorry and ashamed. I'll be more careful if there is a future..

 

back to this:


these are available: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/223576786595

where did they get them?
what has to be done to have them functioning?
and they dont look the same as the originals:

 

Its ok !! I am not mean like others can be on this forum you tried your best and so be it !! At least you tried !!

 

I don't think you can get it to work, because you need the codes for the ECU see above, the yellow marked section of my ECU dump. In the DBR3 tool it gives a routine to learn a virgin Skreem modul to the Crossfire but I can't get it to work. So maybee it can work with the right DBR3 tool StarScan??? Witech MicroPod2 dosn't make the job in my test. But maybee you need also attech to the Mopar Tech Authorithy and this isn't offered for private persons.

 

sadly, we find ourselves in a place where technology rules, and any1 can sell anything without guaranteeing that it will work as you need-and we dont understand whats going on.
look at their ad:

Genuine Mopar OEM NEW Ignition Lock Set Assembly 2004-2008 Crossfire 5101014AA

New OEM Factory Part

sure any1 will buy it thinking (dreaming/expecting) that it will work, but the ad does not confirm that you will have your car running with it.
i, like zillions, am ignorant of all these facts, and am at the hands of those who sell them. no law to protect us, the little guys.
i remember an anecdote of a poor farmer that saw his chicken being taken by a group of revolutionaries and when he was protesting, 1 of them told him that it was for the good cause.
but other revolutionaries were doing the same. and then he added: my chicken dont know who steals them. they only know that they are being stolen
so all this chrysler/benz/mopar/whatever ends up leaving us at their mercy-as always.
the only thing that seems feasible is getting rid of the skreem.

 

Phil, it appears you have missed some related message threads on this. I certainly understand your skepticism, but I have a little more information than you on it. I purchased this kit, and so have others on the forum. It is a genuine Chrysler part number/kit. The seller has sold 7 on the current ebay listing, and 10 on a prior listing, with no related negative feedback. There is certainly debate on the forum as to whether or not they will work. I happen to have the Chrysler documentation for installing a virgin SKREEM, and both a DRBIII, and Starscan that have program functions to replace and configure a SKREEM. The documentation can be wrong, but why would Chrysler provision this kit? I've never personally done this, and I will acknowledge it could fail. However, I'm confident it will work if I need it one day for one of my three Crossfires. I'm not willing to waste a $500 kit just to prove it. However, I have volunteered in another post to help others locally who are stuck. Or I would do the replacement on one of my own cars, if others would split the cost of the SKREEM kit. One individual has shown some willingness to do that, but I warned his request to do an ECU change at the same time would complicate things and invalidate the test.

The SKREEM comes paired to the two keys "chips" in the kit so it is already set up to talk with them. The labels on these parts all have a matching code. The replacement process involves pairing the virgin SKREEM to the existing ECU. I forget without looking at the documentation but you to read Hex codes from the ECU using the DRBIII, and then going through the DRBIII prompted steps where at some point you have to enter the ECU codes. I started that module replacement function in the DRBIII and it first asked me to select a country. As I didn't want to mess up the good SKREEM in the car I stopped at that point.

BTW, related to your post, those performance boosters "chips" you plug into your car ODBII port are all scams. There are youtube videos where very good technical evaluations have been done proving so.

 

thank you very much for your polite comments and suggestions. still, the more information you have does not prove that those parts work. it will not be until you (or somebody else) tells us that have been installed and do work as expected.
and about the performance boosters you mention (in which post? number? link?), i dont understand what are you talking about, so please elaborate. thanks again for your comments.

 

Here is a youtube link that shows you what they are and testing with real a dynamometer.