Like many (most?) Crossfire owners, my TPMS light has been on for the past 3 years. It's no biggie, as I religiously check my tires. However, I just did a bunch of brake work (installed Goodridge SS brake lines and a full fluid flush/fill) in preparation for new tires (yup - I'm still rolling the original 13 year old rubber.)

During my road test, the dash light was mysteriously no longer on. I'm not complaining, but I am simply curious if anyone knows how this could occur? Hopefully, they have enough "juice" left in them to allow the tire dealer to clone new Schraders.

 

Sometimes, a hard 'jiggle' or bounce during rotations or service will cause the contacts on the batteries in the sensors to reconnect and again start transmitting BUT..... I suspect that light finally blew since it is only supposed to be on occasionally. Does that lamp light up when you first crank the car (normal lamp check)??? If not, it is a blown bulb. If the bulb check works properly, I have no idea why it is 'working' now. PLEASE let us all know?


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Or the bulb went out?

 

TPMS bulb definitely is not burned out - it comes on briefly during the startup routine as it should. Regardless, I get new tires on Thursday, so I'll report if any issues with cloning the new Schraders.

 

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Very ODD, bulb working but TPMS out (lamp lit) for 3 years and now working again? Very ODD!


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You already told us the TPMS warning light functions because you see it light up when you start the car. Have the Tire Shop scan your wheel sensors before they start any work. Would be interesting to learn if the Tire Shop finds any wheel sensors defective. If so, the TPMS warning light should be lit. For the TPMSs warning light to be out, all the wheel sensors should be functioning properly. And since the TPMS wheel sensors are the original OEM versions, the TPMS Module would not have to "re-learn" a wheel sensor if a defective one mysteriously restarted sending a signal. I am not aware of anything else that would trigger this situation. (Note: There is the possibility that low tire pressure in any one tire would trigger the warning light. But it would amaze me if you had a tire with low air pressure for 3 years!)

Your follow-up on this will be interesting to hear for many of us. Later,

 

Now that I think about it, a tire with low air pressure during the winter season would trigger the TPMS light. And if tire pressure wasn't adjusted, the TPMS light could go out as summer season approached due to the increased air pressure at the elevated environmental temperatures. Likewise, if a wheel sensor detected low tire pressure during the summer season, the TPMS warning light would definitely come on & stay on if the tire pressure wasn't adjusted for winter climate change. Again, hard to imagine that you would not respond to the TPMS warning light coming on & adjusting tire pressure(s) accordingly.

Another possibility is you are running tire pressures that are very near the lower operating range of the wheel sensors and causing the TPMS warning light to come on & stay on. The TPMS wheel sensors, based on my experience, are not calibrated to the accuracy we probably expect. When I replaced the Driver-Side sensors on my 2007 Coupe & performed the "re-learn" process, I was amazed at the difference between tire pressures according to my tire gauge and the DRB3 Emulator. The software measured considerably lower tire pressures yet the TPMS warning light went out & stayed out. And who knows whether the wheel sensors maintain their linearity as the battery weakens.

So what tire pressure(s) do you use for the winter & summer seasons? If you run the same tire pressure year round, then you must be adjusting for climate change.

Food for thought.

 

Car is stored in the winter, and I only run recommended tire pressures during roadster season. I'm having a crazy thought now that perhaps a grounding issue was somehow involved, although I admit that makes no sense.

I installed a new hard ground wire per a post on the forum at the same time I did the brakes. I noticed the lights on my MB leather shift **** are now also working again - they had been intermittently working (flashing) like a bad connection somewhere, but its all good now.

The horse may still be twitching, but I'm just going to end by being grateful that they are (apparently) working well enough to get them cloned. I never liked having the TPMS light on, and no way was I going to bypass it.

 

You may be on to something with the grounding issue. Interesting that you've noticed another issue solved on the MB shift **** when you installed the new ground cable. Like I said previously, have the Tire Shop scan your wheel sensors prior to performing any work to see if all the wheel sensors are functioning properly. More then likely they are since the TPMS warning light is no longer lit.