Back again guys.. getting exhausted trying to make this car right its one step forward 3 steps back every time.. Car started up fine, drove for 30 mins. Took it home & now nothing. I've pulled the RCM and looked at multiple tutorials, the RCM looks like its in great condition no issues with the solder joints or arching everything looks very clean I'll post a picture below. I'm praying this isn't skeem related. I turn the key I get one click (I think from the starter) and nothing. Can someone please point me in the right direction I've just purchased a new battery left the car without power for hours put in the new battery same thing.. 50k miles. I'm leaning towards the starter...

 

 

The highlighted part I’d reflow for safe measure but it’s definitely not the worst I’ve seen. MHO I’d check your relays in you RCM first to make sure everything is copacetic. Also if you’re suspecting a SKREEM there’s reportedly been some success with the Possible SKREEM Fix procedure. Onehundred80 made a nice PDF for all to reference. Good luck fella.

 

Thanks! I'll do that just to be safe, I also inspected all the relays they seem clean and moving fine. I was reading somewhere that the skeem would cause a crank but no start 3 times, then stall out, then nothing. I'm just experiencing a single click, no crank. So honestly at this point I hope it is the starter, alot less money but more labor guess ill take the pain as it comes with this car. I've fixed so much of it over the year thanks to this forum you guys are top notch, hopefully im in the home stretch of all this bs.

 

Bad relays can "look" new. Try this.
Turn the key to the ON position and wait 20 seconds. Does the radiator fan spin up REALLY fast?

 

Thanks for the tip! The fan DID NOT come on after the 20 secs. So I tried this a few times, the first time I set the key to on with the hood popped. I heard some very very high pitched frequency (not to loud) it sounded like it was coming from the RCM or something else and also a couple clicking sounds 3ish times then it stopped in that area. 2nd time no high pitched frequency, no clicking, fan still not running after 20 secs. Any ideas?

 

Next remove and open the RCM. )
Re-install.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Two of the middle relays should remain in the Closed position.
Are the two closed?

 

Really appreciate the help! I've had some ups and downs with this car and just want to enjoy it at this point. I'm grabbing some food I'll update you in about a half hour!

 

Just got done trouble shooting kind of hard to tell in the dark but the 3 relays I’ve circled are all going on and off at the turn of the key (on and off) from what I can tell. (ill double check tomorrow) the top and bottom ones are off.

 

From top down the relays are:

air pump
fuel
engine control
traction control
horn

The fuel will close for 2 seconds, then open when the key is first turned to the ON position.
The engine and traction relays must remain closed.

If you can find me on Messenger it's easier to communicate that way. DJ Tighe

 

Good to know thanks, so from my understanding the RCM is working correctly? The way the picture is orientated when the little mechanism on the relay moves up its "open" and when it moves down its "closed"? And messenger on this site? Like PM?

 

I think the RCM is fine. All the clicky-clicky sounds you hear are the throttle body doing it's powerup dance, the fan in the RCM box will whine with the key on, and you MIGHT hear the 'vacuum cleaner sound" from the secondary air pump.

Starter failures are RARE with these cars. You can prove the starter by getting into the fuse box, under hood, driver's side.
Pry up the fuse carrier deck, lift it up a bit and grab the pulse module. Unplug it, and pry the covers off.
Reconnect the pulse module, with the cover off.
Verify car is in park or neutral and the brake is firmly set (you are about to risk the car running over you).
Turn key to "ON".
Now, there are two relays on the pulse module.
Press both, one is for the SRT coolant pump (if your car is not an SRT, you will have the relay but it won't do anything).
The other is the relay that directly drives the solenoid on top of the starter.

If pressing that relay makes the engine spin, you have a good battery, starter, etc. and you have one of the following:
bad clutch switch
bad ECU
some sort of trouble between ECU, pulse module, the key switch, etc.

If pressing that relay does NOT make the starter and engine spin, you have:
bad starter
bad starter solenoid
super weak battery
really bad battery cable connections, etc.

 

Thanks pizza 🍕 appreciate the in-depth response will forsure give this a try tomorrow and go from there have a good night!

 

Pizza!! Can’t thank you enough man great way to trouble shoot! For anyone curious as to how this PCM comes out I’ve take some pictures it’s just a bunch of tabs on the driver side fuse box cover and as well as the PCM to get it open! In my case I don’t have the SRT and the right relay was my starter I hit it and same thing one click! Now to dive into this starter thanks so much!

 

Personally, I would check the cables for corrosion or bad ground first. As Pizza said, it is rarely the starter, not impossible but rare. Bad battery wires and connections are more common.

 

As far as the battery and the terminals I’ve double checked all those components. Would you be able to tell me where the ground wires are, I see one off the transmission. I’m on my phone and don’t have access to the manual atm. (Edit got to the manual here are all the grounds) holy hell!

G100 Left Side of Engine Compartment N/S
G101 Right Side of Engine Compartment 8
G104 Top Front of Engine N/S
G107 Right Side of Engine Compartment, Battery Negative Ground 8
G200 Behind Left Side of Instrument Panel at Base of Windshield N/S
G201 Lower Left Footwell Behind Kickpanel N/S
G202 Under the Center Console at the Occupant Restraint Controller 7
G203 Under the Center Console 7
G204 Lower Right Footwell Behind Kickpanel 5
G205 Upper Left Rear Passenger Compartment N/S
G206 Lower Right Footwell Behind Kickpanel 5
G300 Left Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel N/S
G301 Lower Right Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel 3
G303 Upper Right Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel 3

Can anyone also clarify how this starter actually comes out? I seen the manual it said to remove the exhaust from the intake manifold then to the back, but I haven’t done that yet as I suspect I don’t have the right tools to remove from the manifold (seems to be at a rough angle if you go from the bottom unless you have some super long extension and a lift) I assume these bolts been heat cycled a million times and I don’t have an impact either. I’ve freed the starter from the two bolts but can’t orientate it in anyway way to get access to the positive and negative terminals. Let alone find the space to actually pull it out.

 

Going to put the car on 4 ramps today and attempt to remove this exhaust from the manifold hopefully from what I understand this will give me the access I need to remove?

 

Used the search function and this came up.

Yes : here is how you do it the quickest way I found, first jack up front end and put up on ramps if you have,place ramps in backwards so they will be out of your way,now for the bottom bolt on the starter take out from under the car,the top you will need a small extension we used a universal wrapped in electrical tape and socket and wrench[ tight but you can do it,bottom ,we used a 12mm wrench and another wrench to break the bolt loose.Now the not so ,remove bottom bolt on engine mount,then remove the top bolt,now remove the alternator,,now with you jack and a short 2x4 turned sideways ,put it on the oil pan and between the frame and jack it up,[slowly jack it up and pay attention ,not to much,make sure your clear at all times,Note while removing the alternator you may like we had to jack the motor up first and unscrew the alternator bolts and the wiring from up top,after that remove the motor mount,then your starter is clear to come out and reverse the process to put back together,good luck,everthing should come out from up above,not under the car

 

Thanks, yeah I’ve already ran across that just seemed like a lot of extra work compared to what the manual suggested. I actually found out how to free the starter, just follow the manual then there’s a metal shroud on one of the parts of the frame that hold a steering part. I removed that and now have the room to hopefully pull it out I just need to try and get these positive and negative wires off.

 

Im in Chicago visiting my grand daughter. can't spend much time on here, but checking all those grounds is a waste of time.

The paths you are worried about are:
From the battery positive terminal to the starter.
From the battery ground terminal to the chassis.
The jumper from the block to chassis (behind power steering pump).

That is the high current path you are now concerned with. At least you are close to the problem.

Look in the service manual, Chapter 8 (wiring). Look at both starting and charging systems and you will see how it's wired.
I"m starting to think the starter or solenoid is at fault, rare as that it.

Now, one more thing. Do this:

1) Turn on headlights.
2) Press the relay.
If you get a click AND the lights dim way down, look for corrosion or other high-resistance issues in the ground or positive cables.
If the lights do not dim down, I'd look back at the starter/solenoid.