I recently bought this car and my wife lost the key that was programmed to the car and worked as it should. I was able to put new batteries in a second key fob that was not working when we bought the car and it would lock and unlock the car but, she tried starting it and it ran for a second or two and stopped three times. I’ve read some other forms about this and understand this is typical behavior when the immobilizer fails. Compounding this issue, my son told me as he was leaving for his night shift job he saw the fog lights were on and for some inexplicable reason chose not to tell either me or his mother about it and it completely drained the battery. I recharged the battery and attempted to start the car again and the key fob would lock and unlock the car as it should. I followed the instructions in the manual to re-synchronize the key to the car I pushed lock twice and put the key in the ignition within 30 seconds. Again the car would start for a second and die. I expected this would likely happen. What I did not expect to happen was that smoke started rising from the steering column. Has anyone else experienced this? If so any guidance?

 

I have been here for over a decade and have not heard/read of smoke coming from the steering column. Your SKREEM (immobilizer) seems to be in need of repair. you can get it fixed and get another key
here: Josh
If it is possible to get a hold of the previous owner you should inquire as to why one key functioned and the other did not; What is the maintenance history of the care.

 

It appears it’s my headlight switch

 

Is it possible someone tapped into it for a power source?

 

The headlight switch is part of the illumination control module. You should access the fuses on the side of the drivers dash. When you open the driver's door the side of the dash is visible and there are plastic screw heads you twist to open that panel which gives access to the illumination fuses. Open that panel and check each fuse. It you find a bad fuse you will know which circuit is giving you trouble. Repair that circuit.
If the problem is actually the switch then the entire module assembly will need replacing as it is not repairable.

 

I ordered a used lighting control module/switch and replaced mine. It solved the problem. I looked at the one I removed and it had melted the plastic case on the bottom. Strange that it drew enough current to melt the box, but, didn't blow any fuses.

Now, on to the SKREEM / Immobilizer problem...

 

Not sure why the picture is so big. Couldn't figure out how to make it smaller.

I'm talking to Precision ECU about the SKREEM delete. Thoughts? Any others out there doing it?

Edit #1: Has anybody used Mercedes Swap shop in Ridgecrest CA?

 

Having repaired the illumination model are you certain the SKREEM is in need of repair. Have you disconnected the battery for a minute and then tried to start the car? What exactly happens. Does the car turn over and not start, or does it do nothing at all when you turn the ignition switch or perhaps it does start but only briefly and then die right away twice before nothing happens when turning your key?? The repair to the above problems all require a different approach and not necessarily the SKREEM. What exactly is your problem now that the new module is installed.
I personally do not like the SKREEM delete as it seems to be a butcher job to the cars design. Repairing the SKREEM is not any more of a job than deleting it.

 

Post #1 tells the story.

 

I read it long ago; Let's start from scratch since the illumination model is new and we can get a recent reference point.

 

TDAH, does the siren sound loud and clear when you push the red panic button on the FOB? If not you should Pull the plastic cowl off under the windshield and disconnect the siren before proceeding farther. A Bad siren can lead to a mulititude of problems. It is best if it is simple disconnect at this point.

 

1) You must edit the photo in "Paint" or other software before posting it, and you must make it pretty damn small.
2) Many have done SKREEM deletes and fixes. The SKREEM is not acutally deleted, what is done, is the ECU is modded such that it does not ask the SKREEM for permission to start, it just starts.
If the SKREEM was really deleted, your key fob buttons would not work, as the SKREEM is also the receiver for the remote lock/unlock/panic commands.
3) More of us has used Josh at the MSS than Precision, altho Precision was first on the scene. I do not know if MSS and Precision are doing the exact same fix - ask them what they are doing.

 

There is no real SKREEM delete, what is done, is that the shop mods the ECU to not ask the SKREEM for permission to start. The SKREEM is still needed so remote lock/unlock still works.
I believe Josh adds a little board to the ECU that "answers for" the SKREEM when it's time to obtain SKREEM permission to start.

OTHER THAN THAT, you are right, it is time to start over with this.

TDAH:
Let's start over. You have the smoke/ICM trouble fixed (and no fuse blew because the fuses on the ICM are for it's OUTPUTS. The INPUT to the ICM is fused at 200 amp by the main fuse in the battery fuse box. 200 amps at 12 volts is 2400 watts, that is a lot of heat.

Where are we at with the car? What issues are we left with? Does the car start and run? Does it engage the starter and not start? Does it refuse to engage the starter or not?

 

Why make the picture smaller, some people look at the pics on a phone, they do not want to see a pic the size of a postage stamp.
I always use a big picture the form program downsizes it to fit the screen.

 

Thank you to all of you for offering to share your experiences. So, where I currently am with the car is that the headlight switch replacement resolved the smoking. When I'm home tomorrow I'll send a pic of the old melted unit.
This appears to no longer be an issue.
Once I replaced the switch and reattached the battery I used the key fob and hit the unlock button twice and put the key in the ignition within 30 seconds per the owner's manual instructions on synching a key. I saw the lights blink, but, did not hit the lock button, so, I don't know that the light flashing equates to the button actually controlling the locking mechanisms.
I immediately turned the key and the car started and ran for about a second.
I tried it a second time and nothing happened.
I work out of town so I won't be able to check fuses until tomorrow night, but, I've been advised to check fuses 9, 35, and 37. I'll do that tomorrow.
Is a "hard" reset (disconnecting both battery terminals and touching them together) a real thing? Does it do anything?

Again, I really appreciate the help.

 

To answer your question: I personally have seen a Crossfire not want to start even after disconnecting the siren under the cowl, but then, disconnecting the battery for about 30 seconds and reconnecting ( this no power situation will reset some of the cars electronics to default ) the car started right up and was fine after that. The two leads from the car were not touched together, just the negative cable was disconnected.
Your problem may not give the same satisfactory results.

 

Here's a picture of the failed headlight control module.

I had a mobile key programmer come by and he couldn't get in to see what the problem was. $110 down the drain...

I no longer believe I have an SKREEM immobilizer issue because I synched the key i have with the car following the directions from the common problems list on this forum. I put the key in the ignition switch, pushed unlock twice, then turned the key and the hazard lights flashed a couple of times. The key will lock and unlock the doors. Also, I no longer have the 1 second start and die cycle when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
I've checked every fuse, they were all good.
I've check the main power feed into the relay control box and it was good.
The siren was already unplugged.

I don't know what to try next.

 

The starting problem is most likely the RCM (relay control module).

 

I see signs of water damage and have circled the sites of said evidence. Since you don't know history of the car, who knows what happened in the past.

No fuse blew because there is no fuse protecting the ICM, the fuses on it protect the outputs, but the inputs to ICM are:
1) A direct feed from connection from splice block 100 in the underhood fuse box, driver's side. This is fed from a heavy lead going to the 200 amp fuse in the battery fuse box, next to the battery.
2) Two separate switched leads from the ignition switch. These are also fed from splice block 100.

You can flow 199 amps all day long and now fuse will blow. At 12.5 volts, a .1 ohm short will flow only 125 amps. Thats 1500 watts - a lot of heat.


I've been on this forum thirteen years. I have lost count how many times we've heard of someone calling one of those "mobile locksmiths", never heard of that getting them anywhere. Sounds like a cool racket, show up, be ineffective and get paid. Where do I sign up?

I don't either because it's hard to understand what the issue is NOW. From what I gather, I agree that it sounds like your RCM is acting up. Like it has for about 1/3 or more of all owners. We all should have a spare RCM and carry it in the trunk at all times. My Grapite's RCM failed twice in a year (first time, solder fractured on the board, second time, one of the relays failed). Mine finally failed on the SE three weeks ago, so I ordered a new one and the car is fine. I sent my old one to DJ in Arizona and he rebuilt it. I now have it in the trunk as a spare, cause RCMs fail eventually.

Order an RCM, if it fixes it, send yours to DJ. If it doesn't, at least you have a spare. If you can toss money on a "locksmith" you can throw $150 on a part you WILL need eventually, if not now.
Search for: Mercedes 2003 SLK320 Relay Control Module (or put in SLK230, as those for some reason are $30 cheaper, that's what I bought) at FCP Euro, German Auto Parts, AutohausAZ or PartsGeek and grab any item that looks like what is below. Ignore part numbers, if it fits either of those cars, it fits.
If you go to eBay, don't come back here asking for help as you've wasted your time buying an unknown, junk part. You want a NEW part.
If you search "Chrysler Crossfire" for the part - sucks to be you.

 

Pizza guy, thanks for the advice. I'll try the RCM replacement. I did pull it and look at the solder failure point and it was solid, so, don't think that is the issue. Fingers crossed the RCM replacement solves the problem.