I own a 2005 roadster, SRT model, 24,000 miles. Several questions:
1) Regarding raising or lowering the top: Chime no longer sounds when cycle is complete, either opening or closing. Windows still automatically go down when doing either function. Ideas sought on how to repair.
2) Regarding the Bosch crankshart position sensor (CKP): I just ordered one to carry with me and I know I need to carry, at a minimum, an E8 Torx-fitted rachet, etc. to change it out. Where is the CKP located on the engine? Tips on removing/re-installng it would be appreciated.
3) Regarding removing/re-installing a Relay Control Module (RCM): I see where it is located, btw for those who are novices, it's on the midline side of the covered wire box; the box sits just midline, next to the battery. I can elevate the RCM out of the wire box but the wire connectors (plugs) resist removal from the RCM I don't want to break the plugs, how does on remove and re-install the plugs from the RCM? (I seek to modify as Me-so-horny explains to make the horn work when ignition is off but I also want to learn how to replace this critical part when/if it eventually fails somewhere away from my garage.)
4) Finally, what OBDII reader makes the most sense to buy and own? I'd like one that's easy to use but isn't absurdly expensive. And, last and easy for those who know, where does one access the OBDII interface on my car?

Many thanks for all those with knowledge do to help those of us who don't have such knowledge!

 

1) If that is ALL that is wrong, then I'd say the "chime" function in the instrument panel is at fault. If you have time and money to chase that, you must be really bored.

2) Driver's side rear of engine next to the vertical heat shield. One clue is this: It pickups rotation of the flywheel, so look in line with the flywheel.

CLICK THIS

3) They unplug. DO NOT pull on the wires, gently pull on the connector bodies and rock them side to side and they pull out easily.

4) I like my BOSCH 1100 but the CP123 family does more.

At one time, it seemed like I was the crabbiest person on here, but lately, it is clear: Members are getting irritated with people coming on here asking the same questions that have been asked hundreds of times. Maybe I'm not the *** I thought I was, because it doesnt bother me like it does other. ANYWAY: For that and other reasons, I made a post about how to get tech help here, it also shows you how to search using Google because the Forum search (which members tell you to use) is horrible. I don't bite people's heads off for not using the forum search, again, it's horrible, but I am getting tired of people who won't read my tutorial on how to use Google. Google can be VERY predicable, use my advice and you can manipulate google to give you what you want (links to threads here).

Here is the thread: CLICK THIS

 

Thanks Pizzaguy for this and your many helps to others (and me). I understand your dismay at how some of us don't look for answers, some of us can't find answers even when we look. I'm in camp #2... because in real life I get a lot of the same stuff from folks who ought to do better -- ought to because they hold others' health in their hands.

Your assessments & your suggestions are helpful. I read your tutorial but unfortunately overlooked your negative comments about the forum's search function, which is indeed lousy.

I already tried rocking the connectors inside the RCM, I'll try again. After a lifetime of occasionally breaking the consistently-crap polymers used by MB, BMW and Peugeot on their cars, I'm now more patient -- which is why I posed the question.

The link you provided to DanielNTx's photos of the CKP removal/replacement process. It'll help, esp. knowing that one needs a specific tool to remove the screw. Why do carmakers use fasteners that require special tools? Oops, I guess I already know.

 

Hi GCJ,
After 18 years, those connectors can be tough to get off. Even after removing the RCM connectors several times in my car, I still find that I need to use two screw drivers to lever the connectors out. I use one of them as a fulcrum and the other as a lever to lift up on the connector. I go slowly around each corner until the connector comes pops off.
-Jerry

 

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Hi GCK, The CPS (Crank Position Sensor) is hidden by the exhaust manifold on the rear side of the engine. Given your owning a domestic car, it may be on the drivers side or the passenger side relative to the steering wheel. There are a few suggestions on what else to have in the parts box with the CPS (remember, Bosch only) like a bit of tape to hold the T8 onto the end of the socket extension, so fit accordingly. Good luck locating your CPS, and having the right tools in the parts box to swap out if needed to be.


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Thanks Ghost. You mean tape to hold the extension to the T8 female socket, yes? Pizzaguy suggested in a post somewhere that once the screw is free, hold it in position against the CPS flange with the the socket/extension unit and pull the CPS and the now-loose screw upwards as a single unit, thus trapping the screw so it doesn't fall. I'm guessing it's even more fun to do the install....
Does this make sense? Thanks.

 

Certainly does. I also forgot to say that when you 'swing' the assembly out some, it makes taking the connector off gobs easier (quite a few have a heck of a time taking it off while stil bolted on). Good luck!


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