Automatic Coupe - No drive just revs
I've got a 100k Coupe, no idea on it's history.
I was driving along and pulled up to some traffic, I stopped for a few seconds but when I went to pull away, the car just revved when I depressed the throttle. I turned the car off for about a minute, when I fired it back up, I had drive again but only for about 10 seconds. This happened 2 or 3 times until I gave up and got rescued.
I asked in the groups on Facebook and based on the codes I was getting in my very cheap code reader (P0715 - Input/Turbine speed sensor A circuit and P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio) I had the conductor plate replaced, along with connector, O rings, pan and new ATF.
After this has been done the car still had no drive, i did the throttle reset based on advice I was given, I've put the code reader back on and now it has no codes. Not sure how much a £20 device off Amazon can be trusted though.
The mechanic who did the work for me said he put the same amount of ATF in as he took out, the car is parked (and undriveable) on a slight incline, I have a dipstick but obviously not getting a clear reading because of the slope (only a few degrees).
Any help appreciated, I bought her, did 250 miles and enjoyed every one of them, polished and made her beautiful but is now just a paperweight! I haven't actually tried to drive it, the mechanic did though, you can hear it go into reverse etc.
I was driving along and pulled up to some traffic, I stopped for a few seconds but when I went to pull away, the car just revved when I depressed the throttle. I turned the car off for about a minute, when I fired it back up, I had drive again but only for about 10 seconds. This happened 2 or 3 times until I gave up and got rescued.
I asked in the groups on Facebook and based on the codes I was getting in my very cheap code reader (P0715 - Input/Turbine speed sensor A circuit and P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio) I had the conductor plate replaced, along with connector, O rings, pan and new ATF.
After this has been done the car still had no drive, i did the throttle reset based on advice I was given, I've put the code reader back on and now it has no codes. Not sure how much a £20 device off Amazon can be trusted though.
The mechanic who did the work for me said he put the same amount of ATF in as he took out, the car is parked (and undriveable) on a slight incline, I have a dipstick but obviously not getting a clear reading because of the slope (only a few degrees).
Any help appreciated, I bought her, did 250 miles and enjoyed every one of them, polished and made her beautiful but is now just a paperweight! I haven't actually tried to drive it, the mechanic did though, you can hear it go into reverse etc.
Mine started going into limp mode a few months ago. I call a transmission shop he told me to check the filter. He said those transmission rarely go bad. I pulled my pan and the paint in the pan had started flaking off. I cleaned it up put new filter on. Haven't had any problems since.
I've got a 100k Coupe, no idea on it's history.
I was driving along and pulled up to some traffic, I stopped for a few seconds but when I went to pull away, the car just revved when I depressed the throttle. I turned the car off for about a minute, when I fired it back up, I had drive again but only for about 10 seconds. This happened 2 or 3 times until I gave up and got rescued.
I asked in the groups on Facebook and based on the codes I was getting in my very cheap code reader (P0715 - Input/Turbine speed sensor A circuit and P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio) I had the conductor plate replaced, along with connector, O rings, pan and new ATF.
After this has been done the car still had no drive, i did the throttle reset based on advice I was given, I've put the code reader back on and now it has no codes. Not sure how much a £20 device off Amazon can be trusted though.
Funny, you responded to a 2024 post I I followed right along. I'm sure he is long gone
The mechanic who did the work for me said he put the same amount of ATF in as he took out, the car is parked (and undriveable) on a slight incline, I have a dipstick but obviously not getting a clear reading because of the slope (only a few degrees).
Any help appreciated, I bought her, did 250 miles and enjoyed every one of them, polished and made her beautiful but is now just a paperweight! I haven't actually tried to drive it, the mechanic did though, you can hear it go into reverse etc.
I was driving along and pulled up to some traffic, I stopped for a few seconds but when I went to pull away, the car just revved when I depressed the throttle. I turned the car off for about a minute, when I fired it back up, I had drive again but only for about 10 seconds. This happened 2 or 3 times until I gave up and got rescued.
I asked in the groups on Facebook and based on the codes I was getting in my very cheap code reader (P0715 - Input/Turbine speed sensor A circuit and P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio) I had the conductor plate replaced, along with connector, O rings, pan and new ATF.
After this has been done the car still had no drive, i did the throttle reset based on advice I was given, I've put the code reader back on and now it has no codes. Not sure how much a £20 device off Amazon can be trusted though.
Funny, you responded to a 2024 post I I followed right along. I'm sure he is long gone
The mechanic who did the work for me said he put the same amount of ATF in as he took out, the car is parked (and undriveable) on a slight incline, I have a dipstick but obviously not getting a clear reading because of the slope (only a few degrees).
Any help appreciated, I bought her, did 250 miles and enjoyed every one of them, polished and made her beautiful but is now just a paperweight! I haven't actually tried to drive it, the mechanic did though, you can hear it go into reverse etc.
1.Those limp codes DTC P07015 and P0730 will not go away even when a new conductor plate is installed; They must be deleted via a scan tool. Ask the mechanic who installed the new plate if he cleared the codes. I have no explanation as to why you do not see the codes on your scan tool now, but did previously other than perhaps they are still stored in memory. Even with those codes I believe your car should move, but it would be stuck in 2nd gear (limp mode), so you may have something else going on. None the less, scan the car with a good scanner and clear the codes.
2, Get a dipstick and check the fluid level with the car idling in park.
3. It is very strange that the car reeves but has no movement. Seems like those codes will simply put you into limp mode. When you had the conductor replaced did the new plate also have all new solenoid or where the original solenoids reused? If you have a bad solenoid it may not allow the valve to operate and thus the transmission is not moving into gear. Have you tried moving the gear shift lever out of drive and engaging second gear by moving the shift lever to the right to start moving or switch the W/S switch and try the other mode? Does the gear indicator on the instrument cluster move with the shifter properly or does it always show "P" or will it follow into reverse?
4. Perhaps the parking pawl is not disengaging.
5. I read from another post a keyway sheered allowing the input shaft to turn freely.
FUNNY, You responded to a 2024 post I followed along. Guessing he is long gone, but would sure be nice to know solution to his problem
Last edited by zip439; Dec 31, 2025 at 01:36 PM. Reason: FUNNY
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