While driving home this evening I started to have the seatbelt alarm and all of the “warning” lights on the dash light up. I noticed a loud humming noise coming from the car./engine. No odometer reading was available, speedometer did not go above 32 mph, no matter what speed I was driving. Happened to go by a speed sign and was going 47 mph. Radio worked, AC worked and clock worked.

Got home checked the fluids all good. Looked in my manual to see if could be a fuse, nothing noted there.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Need more info; Year, automatic or manual, coupe or roadster, SRT6 or NA?

 

2006 roadster. First mechanical concern I have had.

 

Sorry, manual.

 

Kernol
Symptoms sound like you need a new RCM or repaired by DJ. All of the issues you are having are related to a malfunctioning RCM, due to poor soldering.
Use the SEARCH button at the top right of the main page and type in RCM issues and you'll find numerous threads concerning the issue you're having at this time.
Good Luck,
Dennis
DTMenace

 

So, I have the 2006 crossfire roadster where the lights were flashing and seat belt alarm sounding even though clipped in, speedometer would not go above 35 though I was clocked going at 45. The cooling fan sounded like it was over revving. I took it to my mechanic, he put it on the tester board and nothing tripped. He bought an updated board and still nothing tripped. My car had been in his shop for 2 months and no closer to repair He was thinking it might be something in the "cluster". I bought a new RCM as suggested in my post, the lights are no longer flashing and the seatbelt is not sounding a warning. However, all of the dash icons remain lit up like a Christmas tree!

Thoughts?? The manual does not help with troubleshooting this concern. My mechanic used to work for the Chrysler dealer when the Crossfires first came out, he said they were hard to work on as no good instructions available. I love my car and it is not ready for the scrap yard, I appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.

Kernol

 

I do not know what the mechanic is using for a "tester board" never heard of such a thing. However, he should try to scan the car for DTC as a 2003 Mercedes SLK 320 on a R170 platform. That should get you started in the right direction. Was the RCM you used as a replacement brand new? It needs to be new.

Does the car have an automatic transmission? Does the cruise control work?
With what you have giving us to work with you could have a bad battery, bad alternator, bad wheel speed sensor, bad speed sensor on the transmission conductor plate, bad brake switch or brake relay or bad ESP module.

Are there any after market items wired into the car like a push to start, or security item?

 

Thank you for your response. No after market items. Brand new RCM. Auto transmission.Battery is good, alternator is good. Cruise control was workin

 

I would drive the car to another shop; Go to an independent shop, not a dealer, that specializes in European cars. They should be able to scan the car and get a DTC Diagnostic code. Have them scan it as a 2003 Mercedes SLK 320. It is a R170 platform. There is a list of repair shops that others have used here on the forum and you may find one near you. Click:repair shops

If they can't find any codes then you probably have a bad RCM or the fuses on it are bad, or the wiring connections on it are bad.

There are so many possible problems that cause the issues you are having, but they will throw a DTC; No DTC = RCM
I am not convinced that all the items listed are Good. You apparently haven't tested them, but are taking the mechanics word; so much can be lost in that conversation. This could be something as simple as the brake light switch, but that will throw a code. However if the cruise control works then the brake light switch isn't causing your problem.

Two things come to mind: 1) under the carpet where the passenger feet would be, pull back the carpet, remove the stryofoam and the steel plate. Mounted to the steel plate is the TCU, radio amplifier and several other modules. Inspect that area for water intrusion and corrosive damage to the electrical connections.
2) start pulling fuses until the lights on the dash go out. That will at least narrow it down to what circuit could be causing all this trouble. There are fuses on the RCM to start with and then replace that fuse that extinguishes the lights, and proceed to the fuse box under the hood drivers side; If that doesn't do it then there are fuses on the end of the dash drivers side.

I can't think of any other way to proceed; Hope you figure this out! Please lets us know what it took to get your car right.

 

Thank you for your thoughts, I am still working on finding the solution.

 

You do know you are not driving a Chrysler, correct. Other than the body, you are pretty much driving a 2004 Mercedes SLK 320. An Independent repair shop that works on Mercedes is your best bet. Chrysler never was a help.

 

Yes, thank you, I do know it is a mercedes.

 

What do you base this conclusion on?

Cause I think you are overlooking the problem.

 

We checked the battery and the alternator when I brought the car home from the garage to work on it myself. They were both fine.

 

That is not answering my question, let me be clear: How did you "check the battery and alternator"?

It is one thing to monitor and verify alternator production - altho I'd caution you, when my alternator went out, it would charge fine when the engine/alternator were below about 100F, but above that, the alternator would swing between 10 and 16 volts, this fooled me at first until I put an analog meter on and drove with it for a day.

As to the battery - that's not easy to verify without a pretty fast scope on the B+ line coming from the RCM. Easier to just replace the battery. (See point 2 below.)

The brake controller appears (and again, I am going only by what you have typed) to be having a very bad day. The #1 cause for this is unstable electrical supply to the brake controller. THe causes we have seen for this in the last sixteen years are:
1) Unstable alternator output.
2) Battery with insufficient capacitive reactance. (Note I did not say that the battery is "weak", altho in some cases, that is true as well.)
3) Bad RCM (In your case, the symptoms make me doubt this one but it is, again, hard to disregard the possible.)

I've been here 16 years, I've lost count of the number of individuals who show up and tell us "the battery and alternator are fine" who THEN come back in three weeks to tell us they replaced one of the two and the issues all went away.
My SE's battery started the car fine - but my wing/brake controller/etc were insane until I replaced my (two year old) battery.

 

Pizza Guy,

Thank you for your thoughts. My mother passed out of state and I moved my Dad to live with my husband and I. I am just getting back to my car.

I have replaced the following:
1) Battery, though it was showing good voltage (cheaper of other evils to replace)
2) RCM replaced with NEW one
3) Alternator, though it was showing good readings (again cheaper of other evils)

So, nothing has changed. Still remains to :
Have seat belt alarm sounding when buckled in, though it will go off for a little bit, then restart,
Cluster icons remain lit

My husband is ready to take it to the junkyard, I am not.

Other thoughts or suggestions?

Cathy

 

The most common cause is the alarm siren under the cowl, in front of the windshield. You can replace it or just unplug it. It has built in batteries that leak with age and short out causing battery drain. You may need a small puller to remove the wipers.

HOW TO:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...g=1#post989003

Fuse 9 is the alarm system. It also supports other functions.

 

Thank you ZERACER, I removed the siren totally from the car and the seatbelt alarm was still sounding with the seat belt belted in. I removed the the 9 fuse ( previously checked ALL of the fuses individually in the inside box and under the hood, all good) I just removed the 9 fuse inside the crossfire dash and the car will not turn over. I replaced the fuse and the car will not turn over. It is a new battery and new alternator, thoughts?

 

The fuse #9 I was talking about is in the under hood fuse box. The one under the dash is for the fog lights and has nothing to do with starting. Do you have a meter to check battery voltage?

 

Thank you for the clarification. The battery is showing 12.4 on my meter.