This morning, because I needed to move it, my 2004 coupe will not start. Turn the key and nothing, battery seems ok, tailgate lifts, dahblights on, radio ok, engine fan running and cannot move auto gear shift. I have removed negative battery terminal for half an hour to see if it reset anything but no joy. It drove fine on last outing.
Any ideas advice much appreciated.

 

My first thought is the RCM.

 

And that should be your ONLY thought.

It's either a low battery (well below 11 volts) or the RCM.

 

If the wing went up, it's a sign of low battery.

 

No, just mentioned it was working via the switch along with the rest.

 

Battery ok, I will get the RCM 3 solders done and see how it goes. Thanks

 

Just had a mechanic out, according to his error codes he says it points to the PCM?

 

Most times it is worn relays in the RCM, not the solder joints. What codes did the mechanic pull?

 

NOOOO! It's the RCM! Send it to me and I'll fix it for cheap compared to the cost of a new RCM! Email tighed1@hotmail.com for the details.
This is what your car is doing.

 

[QUOTE=tighed1;997205]NOOOO! It's the RCM! Send it to me and I'll fix it for cheap compared to the cost of a new RCM! Email tighed1@hotmail.com for the details.
This is what your car is doing.

[/QUOTE
Thanks but I am in the UK and am sure you are right. I will wait and see what the mechanic comes back with.

 

Thanks but I am in the UK and am sure you are right. I will wait and see what the mechanic comes back with.

If he first thought it was the PCM, he does not understand. The RCM is at fault.
Replace it. Weve been going thru this since at least 2008.

 

Do DJ's test with the cover off the RCM, turn key on, three relays close, then one (the fuel pump relay) will open.
If you do not get that, it's not the solder, it's the engine control relay - the coil has gone open.

 

Personally I would send mine to tighed1. He has done many from countries from outside the U.S. He fixed mine about a year ago and it's great and my horn works now without a key in the ignition!
I think he sells already refurbished ones, but you will have to send him your old one.
However, if you don't want to send it, you purchase one now. Here is a link to one on Amazon in the U.K.

 

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OP, you will save a lot more money listening to the folks here about this well known issue with the Relay Control Module (RCM). You should go and do whatever you want but just might regret paying some mechanic to 'fix' your car. This forum is not your regular forum where ppl let you throw parts at the car in hopes of finally getting to the issue your having. BTW, most of us here have a SPARE RCM in the boot in case this happens out away from home. You will do you good to peruse the forum document collection (all free to download) and read up on the strange things the RCM does when defective. At the least if you buy another and it fixes it, you might be surprised and then might consider a different mechanic. All up to you.

Finally, IF you do pay a huge amount to your mechanic and find out all he did was put in a different working RCM (old or new, mark yours before turning in your car), come on in and let us know. I have a feeling you'll get a few comments.


.

 

Thanks for that, the mechanic has a video I gave him on what the problem is and how to fix it.

 

The RCM is a 15-20 minute job of just unplugging one and plugging in the new one. It is under the bonnet in front of the battery.

 

I've refurbished plenty of RCMs from the UK. Postage makes it a bit pricey but your RCM will be bulletproof after I fix it.
The problem with your RCM is the engine control relay has failed. Soldering won't fix it. You have to replace the relay. If you only replace that relay, you'll be good until one of the other relays go bad.

Here's a temporary fix so you can move the car around.