I have a top that won't work, but I waited until I got my DRBIII emulator working on my Dell 8" tablet and did an analysis. I thought it would be more efficient to debug the behavior with the tool.
So, I figured how to rum the DRB III emulator and went through the convertible top section (sensors, modules etc). After manually cycling through roof opening and closing cycles and checking the position of the sensors, the only thing out of whack is the trunk closing lid is not showing closed. The DRB software lets you activate equipment and gives you the sensor status. It seems quite useful (if it helps fix a problem).

I took the trunk apart (several times) and checked all the wires and there does not seen to be anything obvious. From what I have seen in the forum posts is that there is a switch that is not well documented and it is in the same module as the electric door look. I verified that the previous owner had done the electric lock mod. There are two plugs going into that module. I am assuming one is the fire off the solenoid and maybe one is the sensor to say the trunk lid is closed. I am not sure what the sensor is measuring (the lock movement or what).

I am starting to look for a replacement, but I want to be sure this failure is probable. Back to the service manual and previous forum posts.

The only item i saw mentioned was putting pressure on the trunk and then trying to operate the roof and twisting the standoffs down that hold the lid off the the trunk.

Has there been any other trunk closed sensor failures?

 

Back to the beginning. What happens when you unlatch the header and then what happens when you push the button? There is a series of sensors. Have you checked the one above the passenger's right ear?

 

Thanks for the feedback! The difficulty in finding the problem launched me into getting the DRBII emulator.

Steps I have taken
Verified that the electric lock pall has been removed by the previous owner (unfortunately he did not document that removal). DRBIII showed lock works
Replaced the bad battery which was only one years old. DRBII shows good voltage
Bought and replaced the bad divider brackets (sensors change state in DRBIII when it is moved)
Thought I cycled the top manually to sync the top

DRBIIII feature missing

One thing missing in DRBIII emulator (I think) is activating the "closed trunk lid sensor" by itself. It reports the status in the opening and closing report, but you just can't closes the lid and see it activate.
Next Step
I am first going back to syncing the top with the help of my wife.
My most recent efforts (solo) have been using the DRBIII emulator.
My understanding of the DRBIII emulator is gathered from documents, forum posts and fiddling with it in the last several weeks. I don't have an expert (yet) to show me the quirks, but I am picking up on it's capabilities.
In the system mode, it states what the present condition of each of the convertible sensors in the open mode and the close mode. (including the header and top switches). It also gives the state of all the sensors when there was last a "failure" in opening and closing.

All the convertible top sensors said "Pass" according to the DRBIII emulator, except the "trunk lid closed" which was a "Fail". This is why I was gravitating to it.

In addition, I operated all the actuators (windows, solenoids etc.) with DRBIII emulator and they all seem to function correctly. I have been focusing on understanding the DRB III results to give me the magic answer. So now, with help (after syncing again), I will start with the button pushing and focusing on the beeping sequence and DRB III status in parallel.

Another forum post mentioned that if a "top operation" did not complete that the "trunk lid close sensor" may not set. That is why I am now trying to use two people in the manual movement effort.

For sure I am not an expert in DRBIII, but I see the sensor values change as I try to change position of the roof. I was hoping that the DRBIII emulator would add clarity to this debugging process (which is very murky).

I will have more information after I get a helper during the debugging process. Moving the roof and watching the emulator at the same time is difficult.

I will be able to see the sensors in real time.

Fingers crossed

 

You still did not answer any of my questions.

 

Sorry

Have not been out in the garage yet today. Been doing financial planning issues this morning. I was also waiting for my "help" to be responsive.

This has been at least a five week effort with "various tries" with different cadence responses from the beeper, top operation light blinking and windows going down, etc. over time. But never a pump working....

Like I said, I have already done fixes on the trunk partition, battery, electric trunk lock verification and firing up the DRBII Emulator to see the state of the sensors and actuators. Hopefully, I cleared up some of the chafe.

So now with my "helper" and the DRB III running, I can now start systematically document the behavior as it sits today (but after I do one more manual sync effort)

If I am optimistic, one more manual sync effort might cure the problem.

If not, I will tally up the present symptoms and report them along with some "DRBIII results" documentation.

 

Perhaps post # 6 will help.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html

 

Thanks, I already had spotted that post. Hence, I needed the helper.

I think I have her coming down to help in a few moments.

 

Did a couple more tests today.
I did the sync process as described on the forum. Made sure the pump did not have pressure by pulling the fuse. Started the car and lifted the front off the front window. Opened the trunk and gently lowered the partition. Applied the hex key to release the back bow off the the cowl. Raised the partition so the controller could see nothing was under the cowl. Lifted the back bow and unlatched the cowl underneath. Lifted the cowl out of the way and put the the folded back window and top in the open hole. I then closed the cowl lid. Then I opened the trunk and lower the partition so I could lock the bow to the cowl. Then I raised the partition. While I was doing that, I was watching DRBIII screen to see the switches activate.

Did that twice.

Then I got in the started car with the top down and the windows up. I unlatched the front handle and pushed the raise/lower button. Beeping was about once a second and the windows went down, There was flashing of the top switch, no pump action and the cowl did not pop up. The DRBIII screen indicated that everything was pass, except the trunk lid. My wife pushed down on the lid. It did not move and the fail mode of the trunk lid did not clear up.

My conclusion is that something is bad with the switch and ....maybe... the wire from/to the switch.

 

Found another posting about a lead. I have all the trunk cover panels off, so I try it quickly tonight. My toes are now crossed.

 

I am not sure where this diagram (above) came from, but 2008 crossfire electrical top manual from the forum looks different. It is a three-pin connector, not a two pin.

pins 1 and three are used for the closes signal and the signal should show closed if 1 and 3 are shorted
Here is the directions to test

So I can test both the open and close signal with a jumper and the DRB III emulator

This is a tomorrow effort.

I think I am going down the right rabbit hole

 

Someone mentioned something about wires to the trunk lock or sensor, breaking. I can't remember the exact wording, but you might want to check the power wire and ground to the trunk lock area.
Sorry, I couldn't be more specific, but I saw that a while ago.

 

Progress and punt...
I have been able to keep the DRB III emulator running consistently. I have been focusing on the trunk lid, since the DRBIII emulator indicates that the trunk lid is open.

There are three trunk lid "things".
1.There is the pneumatic lock
2. There is the electric trunk latch assembly that is separate from the pneumatic assembly. This is the assembly that folks remove the end pawl to stop the trunk from accidentally getting locked. It has a three pin connector and is to the right of the latch assembly.
3. There is a latch retainer assembly that is buried in the latch. It has a two pin connector. One of the wires goes to pin 16 on the PTOP. When the lid closes it should ground pin16. From forum posts (see above), it has been identified as a troublesome microswitch that sticks.

I think when DRBIII emulator warning that says the trunk is open (when it is really closed) it is the 3rd item. I tried the fix (listed above) to figure out if the microswitch is stuck. The DRM III emulator did not change. It still indicated that the trunk is open.
I took all the panels out of the trunk to look at the wiring and it does not seem like there is any damage.

Next stop is to somebody that has experience with these tops. Ther are several in southwest and central Florida.

 

1) There is your problem.
2) No, if the top operation does not complete, the PTCM will not unlock the electric trunk lock. The trunk lid must indicate "closed" at all times the top is moving. Go back and fix what you found in 1) above.

 

I agree with the first statement.

I've been here 16 years, I don't know who you refer to, but it sounds like you already know what the issue is.

 

I am hung up on what to do to clear up the trunk fault. I thought I disconnected the sensor on the latch (making an open connection) that should have cleared up the "trunk not closed" fault, but I got no response from the DRBIII emulator.
Based on the other DRBIII emulator readings, they seem to change in real time, so I assumed the value would flip when I changed it.
I bought a mercury tilt switch to use for the "trunk closed" problem, but I have not verified that a functioning switch will clear the problem....
There is a "weekend crossfire mechanic" in Sarasota that may have experience and somebody closer to Tampa that works on convertible tops.

 

Getting closer.... I contacted the previous owner to talk to the shop who worked on it right before it transferred hands. The tech supposedly fixed a broken wire on the "trunk latch circuit". He validated that it was the trunk lock circuit, but his memory was a little foggy.

This helps with the searching process....

 

A further update....
Took every panel off in the trunk and could not find any sign that a wire was broken or fixed. Unplugged the wires between the "offending switch" and the convertible top controller. Measured the resistance of the wires (it was ok). I contacted a local southwest crossfire expert and he indicated it could be bad wiring based on water in the trunk and said he could look at it in a month or so. He is really busy. I looked at the wiring and the switch behavior again rolled the dice and then I ordered a used latch off Ebay. I am not sure that the original technician fixed a broken wire or "juggled a fix" based on the condition of the wiring.

Got the "new" used switch and the microswitch worked correctly in the replacement. Removed the present switch and blindly put in the replacement latch with my fingers crossed.

Bad luck. Turns out that the latch spring in the replacment latch is out of place compared to the original latch. (nice to have 2 latches to compare) I tried to move the coil end of the spring to catch it where it supposed to be, but I was running blind due to the configuration.

Both the spring and the microswitch can only be repaired by drilling out and replacing the rivets on the latch. If I keep the original latch, I need to find a microswitch (pinball part) and supporting bracket (???). I am not motivated quite yet to do that.

So I have one latch with a bad microswitch and one with a bad spring.

Looking for a latch with a working spring and microswitch.

I will be returning the Ebay latch with the bad spring and trying to order a replacement latch that has a good spring and microswitch (fingers crossed).

Both latches with microswitch

 

I hope the new ebay seller I choose will take the time to check the functionality of the microswitch and the spring before he ships.

 

Sorry, interchanged the words latch and switch in my previous email. Bought an Ebay latch and replaced original latch that had the bad microswitch.

 

Hopefully, that will be the cause of your trouble and you will get it fixed. Good luck!