Speaking of disconnecting your battery, it's a bit of a pain in the butt disconnecting the battery every time i want to "mess" with the electrical system. Has anybody on the FORUM ever installed a battery switch similar to the ones used on boats or race cars? I was looking over locations last night, and checked out the battery wiring. It should be fairly easy to do...and relatively inexpensive.
cheers,
Ted

 

This is what I had in mind.....

How to Install a Battery Selector Switch | eBay

 

Switching of the battery causes all of your custom settings to revert to the default.
The settings of the pollution controls used for smog checks get unset and you have to drives miles to reset them for a clean air test. The light on e dash for the steering control system (?) may come on and need resetting, mine does not but some say it does. Not worth the effort is my belief.

 

Hey Young Fella!
I got that steering alarm thing after disconnecting the battery to wire up the footwell lights. It took a while for the indicator to go away. A real pain in the proverbial butt. I'll take your advice, and be careful when doing further electrical stuff. The only exception will be if there is the possibility of setting off an airbag. KABOOM!!
cheers,
Ted

 

I seem to remember once (yeah ONCE) taking off the POS cable 1st, and the dang alarm went screaming loudly. I don't know why I did the POS, I usually was smart enough to remove the NEG cable first (like your supposed to on a NEG grounded vehicle). Anyway, I digress, IF your going to install one of those battery cut-off devices, I would suggest you install it on the NEG side, so the alarm doesn't go screaming.

.

 

I've been scratching my head over your "Dang Alarm"...and why it would sound with the battery disconnected. Perhaps a large charged capacitor supplied juice, or something like a Garmin GPS with battery power might back-feed somehow? Strange.

When installing a battery switch in a marine application, normally one puts it into the positive (+) side of the circuit. Here we have a Canadian version of AYBC regulations:

https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafet...ection8-67.htm

See 8.6.2
cheers,
Ted

 

These sirens carry their own power supply, two small batteries. Disconnecting the main battery by removing the positive lead first must trigger the alarm system somehow.
Presumably you can remove the siren from the cars wiring and get the alarm going, how I do not know. But when a battery leaks it can trip the alarm as the PCB is eaten away by the acid, some how that can trigger the alarm by destroying some of the circuitry in some cases, not all.

 

corfire - Does this modification eliminate the alarm go off?

Thanks,

Jim

 

Hi this is Mike. I am new to this forum and do not have a clue what I am doing. Let me start with a question. I would like to install the Piezo buzzer to my crossfire to get a tone when I lock the door. The fuse box in the diagram is on the opposite side on my crossfire . It is not the same box. So I am wondering what I am looking at. I need the locate the relay plug in my fuse box. Can anyone help?

 

There all the same. You have 3 "fuse boxes" on your car. When you open the drivers door 1, under the hood on the drivers side against the firewall 2. , on the passenger's side next to the battery 3. The one you need , is drivers side back firewall next to brake booster...

 

Thank you so much

 

Thanks again for the info on finding the right fuse box. I did get the lid off and installed the tone buzzer as directed. I expected a chirp or something. I am getting a faint clicking sound, but nothing like a tone. Any thoughts? Mike

 

Im not familiar with the buzzer you installed. Most have used the Mercedes siren, that give 3 chirps ,when activating the alarm. About $150 but if you have the factory siren on the car , it won't be long (search this) before it becomes the "cricket on crack"...lol...

 

Do these need to be wired positive to positive and negative to negative. Just wondering, I have never studied them at all.

 

Yes they do.. my first rodeo.. hmm.. I think I need a louder buzzer . picked up another one with same "faint" results.. tested with a battery and that is when I found out..

 

The "+" and the "-" marked on the terminals are a clue

 

My point was, is it wired correctly?

 

Sorry, I was being an ***. Buzzer "-" to ground and buzzer "+" to the relay post.

 

With my hearing I doubt that I could hear one of these Piezo gadgets, that is why I got the beeping siren.

 

So I reversed the poles on the tone buzzer and It did make a difference but not enough to here it well. Radio shack does have other toners. Any recommendations on what else I can try? Mike