Just replaced mine with much help from the above pics and write-up. Thanks for posting! My philosophy of auto mechanics has always been "if its already broke anyway, take it apart and try to fix it-what's the worst that could happen?" Well, I'm here to tell that there don't appear to be any, as they say, "user-serviceable parts" inside, but I do have a pile of parts outside of the housing, anyway. There is a tiny metal tab that you can see if you pry off the small access panel halfway to the tab that sticks in the steering shaft. This is after the tab launches itself to the far corner of the garage under the force of the hidden spring underneath (surprise!). Anyway, this tab seems to be guilty of having worn down enough to not do its job. To remove this, you have to take out the rotating part of the cylinder that the lock seats into after removing the electrical switch from the back, then beat out the large peened-in cap at the opposite end of the steering shaft lock tab. This little tab is made of sheet metal and is also under spring tension and is released to ricochet around inside after you pull the assembly apart. Once I got to this point, having completely destroyed the assembly in the process, I called up Mercedes, who informed me the only way they could look it up was with a VIN from a Mercedes. I hoped it wouldn't come to this, but I sheepishly told them it was for a Crossfire. He then hit on the idea to go out and get a VIN from one of their cars and I got my part. I can say that even if my BFH hadn't damaged the thing, it would have taken some major mojo to get the thing put back together correctly.

 

Yes i found that the part you are talking about is the part that sticks/locks up the ignition. I smashed up my part to get the tumblers out so my total and small.

$133 for housing
$60 for locksmith to remove the housing, he had to pound in the pin with a hammer and center point
$20 for new black cap

under $300 plus alot of time

See Pictures

 

Yep, that's about what mine looked like, except more broken pieces.
I almost forgot the best part: After I put the dash back together, the next time I drove it at night, a dash bulb burnt out. Guess what has to come out to replace it!!!

 

The Hammer! But I saved 1000.00

anyone need info hit me up, the dealer is crazy

I also saved my tumbler

 

I love my 05 Limited Roadster, but Daimler/Chrysler just made my list. (I call it my lawyer wish list). Saturday everything was fine I stopped at a car wash and experienced 2 minutes of stickness for the first time. That evening, my wife went into labor and we hopped into the XF hospital bound. TOTAL LOCKUP!!! No joke! We ran across the street to the inn, but there was no room. They sent us out to their barn and my wife gave birth amongst the animals in complete Jesus-esque fashion.

OK maybe it was a joke. You believe everything you read on the internet? But seriously this could be really dangerous. Mine locked in my underground condo parking lot with low ceilings and little chance for a tow. Both my original dealer and another local dealer have blown off my service requests - though the original a-holes were nice enough to send me a flier offering me a shiny new car.

I dug in, drilled out the pin, and pulled out the assy. Now I'm going to go march into my dealer with ignition in hand, show them my extended warranty, and tell them to sit in my car with locked steering wheel and ignition as it rolls down a hill and off a cliff. Their solution is to replace it with the same defective part and go for another round of Russian Roulette? Who knows maybe someone WILL be going into labor next time it goes out. Just bust the friggin wheel lock!

A point of note on the pics - a manual transmission makes things a little simpler. There is no parking brake sensor attached to the bottom of the assembly. Thanks drhrsh! Uber helpful.

Luckily I have a few laywer friends twiddling their thumbs during the slow economy. Is anybody out there interested in a class action suit and getting the defective replacement parts off the market?

 

So I just got the car a few months ago (07 base 6spd with 19k) and I experienced this a couple times in the first month. Since then I have been inserting the key with the round logo on the top and have not had one instance of the sticky ignition since.

maybe this is just a coincidence or what not but I thought I would share

 

Even in person, the dealer service department gave me BS. So effit, I'd fix it myself if the warranty is pointless anyway. I wasn't about to cut off my cylinder without first prying open the spring access cover opposite the drilled down retaining pin. Cut the 4 crimped burrs slightly with a razor blade and tapped the panel down enough to bend it concave and it came off. Took out the spring and the pin it inserted into. Turned over the cover, placed it back into its cubby and pounded it flat from convex to tighten it back in place and keep the grime out. Now everything works fine and my wheel lock still works too. Now it's fixed without removing or damaging the cylinder and the only damage is the pin that had to be drilled down! Please let me know if you tried this and still encountered problems.

I was worried the pin was a safety device to prevent the wheel from locking while you drive, but it seems like the opposite. It seems useless. I have no idea what the part is for, but a magnifying glass reveals a small engraving (see pic). I can't make it out. Is that some kind of part number? Hmm..

 

Great info and it looks like it will be very useful. After a problem free 2800 Kilometre (1700+ miles) summer vacation, my car is in the driveway with the key in the ignition. I can turn it easily but I am afraid to take it out after an hour battle to start it the last time. My question is can I leave the key in during this whole procedure or does it have to be out to get the transponder ring off? I don't think I will be able to get it to turn again once it comes out. I am feeling more confident about doing it myself after seeing the pictures and now that Chrysler doesn't have any in stock and want $525.00 CDN (489.00 US)! PS -Just called Mercedes while writing this - $193.10 and will have tomorrow! (180.00 US) Nice profit margins Chrysler. Thanks, Ron

 

I think you will need to take it out to get the RFID ring off. I would at least take out the dash and use the key to unlock the retaining pin first if you can. Then you won't have to drill it out. The ring cable should be long enough to let you twist the ignition past the retaining pin. Or if possible, you can take the FOB off the key while it's in the ignition? Then you wouldn't have to take the key out at all until you finish.

The good news is if you really ordered the new one and you want to take the cylinder off (which requires the key as you mention), you can open the panel on the side of your old ignition and pull out the pin/spring to get the to turn and take off the cylinder. There is no worry and don't listen to people who had to cut off their cylinder and order a new one.

At that point, you can decide to reinstall your old ignition with the permanent fix or reinstall a new one that will leave you stranded some random later day.

 

Thanks for your help BoeroBoy - I picked up the new one this afternoon - will give it a try tomorrow.

 

It's out but was a bigger job than I thought. I am going to try and "adjust" the old one and then decide which one to put back in. Thanks again for all the info on the forum!

 

Thanks again BoeroBoy ( and kudos to drhrsh for the great pictures) - I was able to loosen the clamp, then press in the button and pulled to the right enough to hold the button in. Took the key out, removed the transponder ring and put the key back in and turn to position 1 and removed the tumblers. (the tumbler required channel lock pliers to get it to budge) I now have the side panel off and the pin and spring out -BoeroBoy is that all you removed? Is is still working without cutting off the end? I was going to use the new assy but if that is all it takes I will put it back in. I can't get the buzzer warning switch off the old housing anyways so this would be easier than using the new one (I won't have to cut the switch out)

 

Done! - i decided to use the old one as I still could'nt get the buzzer switch off. I did not cut the end off but did remove the access cover and take out the pin and spring and tried with and without. Always jammed with it in so removed and put in the car seems fine and a lot less work than cutting of the end. If anyone has done it this way and had a problem because they didnt cut off the end it would be nice to know. Thanks again couldnt have done it without the posst on this forum!! Going for a drive!

 

Hey all . . just finished reading this thread . . . good to know ! Mine has 18k kilometers on it, but seems fine. . . .just did a search and found this :

Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - 2001 Mercedes Benz SLK320 Ignition Lock Housing

I think that is the correct part . . . and they are saying it is only $114.95 (plus shipping & taxes of course) . . . . but don't know if it is correct item. Picture looks like it is, but there is a note about what it will/won't fit. Anyone car to take a stab at it and see ? Ok, I just RE Read it . . . basically it is stating it does not include the tumbler - but you are reusing your old one anyways, so all is good !!! Great price on the part that is needed !! Too bad Chryco !

Cheers

Mark

 

well i bit the big one today and let the dealer fix the key problem i've only had the car two weeks so I'm prity green at it "always been a MG man " so hope things go well for a while!

 

I haven't had the problem yet, but mine is approaching the 5 year mark quickly. Has anyone had it replaced under Max Care?

 

I was wondering if anyone has the actual part number off the box for the ignition lock. i tried to order one through my local mb and they couldnt do anything with this number A2024600904. This thread is a big help thanks to everyone who posted.

 

My box is marked A 202 460 09 04 steering lock. I used that # with my local MB dealership.

 

OK Thanks ill try again and might be able to talk to some one at MB with a little more know how or perhaps just a little more willingness to help

 

I did the cut and remove the steering lock pin fix. I decided to go the fixed forever for free route rather than the cost a lot for how long route.