Ok thanks. I showed my dad the instructions (he is actually doing this for me, and I am relaying this info to him)

But he has a question. Since I'm trying to do this and modify the ignition ourselves (cutting the end off).. Once we are finished, how do I go abou replacing the pin that we are about to drill out?

Is that a part that I can get without replacing the entire unit?

And also for those of you that have done this, where exactly do you cut? That pic that is labeled "cut here" looks to be about an inch from the end.

Is there something more specific to that process?

Thanks for all your help in advance. This site has become a lifesaver!

 

Bump for a possible answer to any of these questions... The dash is still apart and waiting to go back together. My dad didn't wanna drill out the pin until he heard back from this thread.

Thanks!

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

Ok this is where I'm at right now.

I took some pics of where I'm at. I have the ignition out, but now I just need to know what exactly the part is where you're talking about a "Spring loaded hatch".

Thanks guys.

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Could you just label one of these pics, so I can show my dad. I'm a little wet behind the ears, hehe. I just don't wanna mess up something. Measure twice, cut once. haha

 

Hi - go back to post # 47 and you will see the access panel - it come out easily as it is just held in place by 4 tabs where the metal looks like it was tapped into place with a screw driver. It will come off easily with a knife or screwdriver - it may pop off so watch it doesnt fly somewhere. Take the pin and spring out and put the cover back on to keep out the dust. I did not cut off the end and I have had no problems for almost 2 months.

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

Well the car has been in teh garage for over a week with the battery disconnected while we worked through this process.

Got it completed today, key turns and everything. Re-Connect the battery, and the car won't start. the radio and lights power up just fine, but it does absolutely nothign when we turn the key.

WTF? Am I missing something here?


EDIT: (embarassed face) We didn't put the transponder ring on before attempting to start it. Now it works just fine. thanks again guys for all your help, you saved me a ton of money.

This is a fantastic write-up.

 

Congrats, it is a bit of a job but sure feels good when you get it done!

 

Fletcher Jones MB told me they won't sell me the parts to fix my key switch, it would have saved me a couple of hundred bucks.
Any way I was performing this task and all was going well, until I got to step where you turn the key to the one o'clock position, the everything went wrong. I cant turn the key to any position, so I can't get the tumblers out. Any ideas?

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

Hello all you fantastic helpful XF peoples! I have one question for the fix that involves removing the flat spring loaded plate where the spring and pin are removed and the plate is reinstalled. As I understand, this will allow the wheel lock to still function, and the entire fix looks OEM (thereby not invalidating any warranty), all good things!

My question is: Is it (at all) possible this pin that locks the steering wheel might (by hitting a bump of some kind) engage(?), now that a "spring & pin" are removed from the housing????

What keeps the wheel lock pin retracted, is there some kind of cam/lever that will retract that pin, keeping it from accidentally bumping back into place (say while driving)? Very concerned it might pop into a wheel lock position due to a bump, while driving on rough roads, or aggressive turning or acceleration/deceleration.

I am not yet in the position to have to do this repair yet, but I always try to figure out why the dang parts were there in the first place. Every manufacturer tries to save $ by designing something with the least amount of parts. Any parts not needed are $ saved in profit/lower costs/etc etc

I would like to know if anyone knows for sure why the spring and pin are there and what function it was designed to do? Sure would hate to do this mod to my ignition lock assembly (pre-emptive repair to keep it from ever happening) then have it cause a wreck someday.

Or, maybe I am totally confused as to what this repair does in reference to the wheel lock still functioning, and where it is on the ignition lock assembly.

 

Got my car fixed and saved a LOT of money, thanks to everyone that put in your 2 cents in. If we all don't do that, we will never learn the short cuts.
When I did mine, I left the battery hooked up, and I used a pneumatic dremmel tool to drill out that damn pin, it took maybe 5 min, but it was a lot smaller than a drill and more accurate. I think the hardest part of the job was remembering where in the all those screws go.

 

Great that the info helped - I know I couldn't have done it without the forum.

#1 - As far as the screws go if you use a piece of masking tape and tape the screws to the holes in the lower dash when you take them out you don't have to remember which one goes where.

#2 - You are dealing with wires and drilling near your steering wheel and air bag and the battery should always be disconnected - this isn't a shortcut. If the air bag goes off while your working near the SRS wires you're toast. And if the airbag doesn't get you, the price of replacement airbag will. It is always worth the 2 minutes to disconnect and reconnect the battery cable.

 

Great post! I cut the pin and the switch still jammed so I removed the little spring and pin under the hatch. It works great now, and I saved money. I think this fix also gave me more horse power. LOL Thanks a bunch.

 

Had a friend do mine last week. Took a little over an hour. Thanks to all who posted information here, made the job easy.

 

Bump, #92! Anyone have the answers?

 

I think you would have to cut up one to give you the answers and currently the logical repair is to remove the spring and pin so not much chance of getting someone to ruin one to find out - maybe someone who replaced the complete unit and still has the old one would be willing to do it.
I personally did not cut off the end and did not have to drill the pin out so mine is stock except for the removal of the spring and pin - I have not had any sticky problems since and no other indication that it doesnt work 100%. I don't know the exact function of the parts but after more than a couple months and more than a few bumps it still works like a new one.

 

The pics are all "X" out on my browser. Are they still viewable at this time? Is there another area where I can access these pictures on the site?

Much thanks,

Sped

 

I just checked and they all come up for me