Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have read about the classic fix for removing a sticky ignition key problem by deactivating the steering lock. However one should be aware of the UK MOT regulation where a faulty steering lock means an MOT failure. Be warned....
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov....4s02000102.htm
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov....4s02000102.htm
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Go to the bottom of post one in this thread, click on "Version 5" and down load the instructions. It sounds like you are at step 10 right now, follow the "if your key won't turn" instructions.
Yes, it is time to drill. I do not envy you, I fixed mine BEFORE it locked up. I wish we could get the word out to everyone: FIX IT BEFORE IT FAILS!
Yes, it is time to drill. I do not envy you, I fixed mine BEFORE it locked up. I wish we could get the word out to everyone: FIX IT BEFORE IT FAILS!
Well guess what I'll be doing this weekend; fixing it before it fails. 2005 SRT-6, 31,000 miles. I have not had a "sticking key" issue - yet - fortunately. Just read through most all of the thread, and the PDF version 5. I have owned my Crossfire nearly 2 years now, and can't believe I never came across this here on the forums before. Lucky and glad I did apparently, as I have no sticking issues whatsoever, and don't ever want to.
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have read about the classic fix for removing a sticky ignition key problem by deactivating the steering lock. However one should be aware of the UK MOT regulation where a faulty steering lock means an MOT failure. Be warned....
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov....4s02000102.htm
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov....4s02000102.htm
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
No, but I was about to look into it for obvious reasons... I mentioned it when I spoke to the guy I know at the MOT station and he said it was a failure to disable the steering lock though it maybe ok if other forms of demobilisation are in place. However if this fix still allows the steering lock to engage then I cannot see a problem. I had thought it was deacrivated?? Which begs the question what does this secondary pin actually do? I assume it blocks the primary locking pin to prevent it being axially forced in some way? So if the lock still works there is no way an MOT station could detect a secondary locking mechanism without doing som thing brutal! Raises one or two interesting question though...
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
That doesn't not surprise me, I think it is German over engineering designed to prevent the locking rod being forced somehow, though I cannot imagine how... Your comment implies that if you replaced the mechanism with a late Mercedes part all problems would go away., though I suspect just removing the spring loaded pin gives long term releiability. do you happen to know if the barrel and key are showing issues whether the dominant cause is wear in the barrel or wear ion the key? M
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
No, but I was about to look into it for obvious reasons... I mentioned it when I spoke to the guy I know at the MOT station and he said it was a failure to disable the steering lock though it maybe ok if other forms of demobilisation are in place. However if this fix still allows the steering lock to engage then I cannot see a problem. I had thought it was deacrivated?? Which begs the question what does this secondary pin actually do? I assume it blocks the primary locking pin to prevent it being axially forced in some way? So if the lock still works there is no way an MOT station could detect a secondary locking mechanism without doing som thing brutal! Raises one or two interesting question though...
The two parts we remove enable the plunger to be pushed in manually - which is no issue, cause you can't push it in manually unless you tear the dash apart and remove the assembly from the column.
And as has been stated before, 07s and 08s (as well as late 06s) were built without the two offending parts. It is as simple as that.
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
My theory: I am of the opinion, that the failure in the switch is caused by turning the key when the steering wheel is locked and resting against its limit. I think if one first moves the wheel to a mid (slack unbound) position before turning the key, so as to turn it whilst the wheel position is not binding it. Although the "bind" is so slight to be hardly felt, the fixture may be delicate enough to wear out over 5,000 to 10,000 turns. I relieve the stress by moving the wheel off it's locked limit before turning the key. We'll see how that works out......over time.
Just my 2c
Rusty
Just my 2c
Rusty
Very first time I got into my Crossfire SRT-6 when looking at it, before even owning it, while it was still for sale I did this, and noticed the locked wheel putting that pressure to make the key/ignition switch harder to turn. That resistance is just way too much against the switch, spring/pin defect or not.
The old adage of not forcing something comes to mind, and why would you; it's a sign of a problem destined to lead to failure.
NEVERTHELESS.... I'm not going to risk chance on a defective design. I'm doing the sticking-key fix today before it's too late.
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
As mentioned, I performed this very easy task today as preventative maintenance, start to finish, not a single issue. The actual job took roughly 35 minutes, but I took my time to also clean out dust from under the dash, lube stuff, clean stuff, etc. I had no hiccups, not electronic blips, not troubles with the transponder, no removal or installation issues.
Read through the whole thread; it's self explanatory, so I'm not sure at this point why anyone would have any trouble of any kind unless you didn't heed advice from others to read through the thread in ADDITION to the PDF.
While my mechanical aptitude is high up on the bar, by the time I read through the thread, I felt as if I had already done this job a few times over. so getting into it was as if I had done it a hundred times before - but that has a lot to do with how good this thread has been to reveal anomalies.
If you are new to this, my advice IS to DO IT NOW - IT'S AN EASY FIX! Avoid what I see could be a hell of a hassle later.
READ THROUGH THE WHOLE THREAD, and don't skip things. Various posts' here give good information not in the PDF that will SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME AND QUESTIONS! - Such as those advising there is no need to remove the tumblers, tips like moving the seat down and back all the way and pulling out the telescopin steering wheel before beginning are very useful best ways to move things around and out of the way, best ways to assemble, what variables to expect, steps not mentioned in the PDF, are ALL VERY IMPORTANT to make this job very easy for you, whether you are doing the modification before things go sour, or your key is stuck.
One of the best posts on additional advice that should somehow be added to the PDF was from KDW4Him in post 802 - I found this to be extremely helpful which saved time and explained the best way to go about avoiding taking out tumblers and removing/installing in that condition:https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...8-post802.html
BobG's post #660 was also very helpful with incite on tips. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...5-post660.html
I also took KDW4Him's advice to put a note on the inside of the fuse-box cover; a label citing the fix/modification done and when. See below.
Also want to add a couple of things: having a vise makes the job when not removing the tumblers much easier. A tip I've learned over the years is to keep old phone books for use in fabrication; whether hammering metal into shape, need a soft support, or as soft jaws that form to cup any shaped part you put in the vise without marring the finish, see below how it worked well here.
Smz3tzNl.jpg
r6MO0evl.jpg
cxf4Q9cl.jpg
DAKhtnUl.jpg
.
Read through the whole thread; it's self explanatory, so I'm not sure at this point why anyone would have any trouble of any kind unless you didn't heed advice from others to read through the thread in ADDITION to the PDF.
While my mechanical aptitude is high up on the bar, by the time I read through the thread, I felt as if I had already done this job a few times over. so getting into it was as if I had done it a hundred times before - but that has a lot to do with how good this thread has been to reveal anomalies.
If you are new to this, my advice IS to DO IT NOW - IT'S AN EASY FIX! Avoid what I see could be a hell of a hassle later.
READ THROUGH THE WHOLE THREAD, and don't skip things. Various posts' here give good information not in the PDF that will SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME AND QUESTIONS! - Such as those advising there is no need to remove the tumblers, tips like moving the seat down and back all the way and pulling out the telescopin steering wheel before beginning are very useful best ways to move things around and out of the way, best ways to assemble, what variables to expect, steps not mentioned in the PDF, are ALL VERY IMPORTANT to make this job very easy for you, whether you are doing the modification before things go sour, or your key is stuck.
One of the best posts on additional advice that should somehow be added to the PDF was from KDW4Him in post 802 - I found this to be extremely helpful which saved time and explained the best way to go about avoiding taking out tumblers and removing/installing in that condition:https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...8-post802.html
BobG's post #660 was also very helpful with incite on tips. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...5-post660.html
I also took KDW4Him's advice to put a note on the inside of the fuse-box cover; a label citing the fix/modification done and when. See below.
Also want to add a couple of things: having a vise makes the job when not removing the tumblers much easier. A tip I've learned over the years is to keep old phone books for use in fabrication; whether hammering metal into shape, need a soft support, or as soft jaws that form to cup any shaped part you put in the vise without marring the finish, see below how it worked well here.
I have just completed my second "Sticky Ignition Key Fix." For both of them I didn't take the lock cylinder out. Leaving it in can make things easier since you don't have to wrestle with the vice grips in a confined space or maybe not get it back together properly. There is risk however, the risk means you will be pounding on the cover while the key FOB is in the assembly risking a slip and break for the FOB. You have to decide on your own the risk you may be willing to take.
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder tumblers.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out of the car put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1, Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and align to your dash cutout then tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Test turn the key to all positions, it should operate as normal.
N) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover. The vise grips pictured are only tight enough to hold the housing to take this picture. If you are going to use a vice or vice-grips to hold the housing while pounding on the cover do not clamp down so hard as to distort or crack the assembly.
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder tumblers.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out of the car put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1, Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and align to your dash cutout then tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Test turn the key to all positions, it should operate as normal.
N) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover. The vise grips pictured are only tight enough to hold the housing to take this picture. If you are going to use a vice or vice-grips to hold the housing while pounding on the cover do not clamp down so hard as to distort or crack the assembly.
Smz3tzNl.jpg
r6MO0evl.jpg
cxf4Q9cl.jpg
DAKhtnUl.jpg
.
Last edited by Heli-Cal Blue; 07-05-2019 at 06:08 AM.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I met another Crossfire owner (Carl) at a Cars & Coffee event in Malvern, PA two weeks ago and he stated that he completed the "stick key fix" and motivated me into completing this procedure with the sticky write up (version 5) and You Tube version. Both were very helpful and my efforts were successful with the car starting at the turn of the key! BTW, the steering wheel still locks after the procedure.
Thanks to ALL that contributed to the written and electronic versions for this essential fix.....
Regards,
Dennis
DTMenace
Thanks to ALL that contributed to the written and electronic versions for this essential fix.....
Regards,
Dennis
DTMenace
Last edited by DTMenace; 11-27-2019 at 10:03 AM.
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have fixed the Sticky Ignition Key problem on my Crossfire today.
My key wouldn´t turn at all so I had to grind off the locking pin to be able to pull the assembly out.
Now the spring an the locking pin is out and the car works perfectly.
Many thanks to all of you who have made the instructions in the forum, it wouln´t have been possible without it.
My key wouldn´t turn at all so I had to grind off the locking pin to be able to pull the assembly out.
Now the spring an the locking pin is out and the car works perfectly.
Many thanks to all of you who have made the instructions in the forum, it wouln´t have been possible without it.
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Read post #1 of this thread and then download and read version #5 of the PDF fix. Your situation is covered toward the end of the PDF.