Thanks rekcah for the sticky key material you posted! Mine is "sticky" but works. I'm at a stop on the fix - my key is in position 1 and I got the black cylinder to turn with vise grips, it was very tight. I'm trying to pull out the key and the black cylinder out - it won't come and I'm concerned about breaking something. The youtube video made it look so easy. I can use some advise. Thanks in advance - my first post!
zigster

 

try wiggling the steering wheel and I think it has to be turned and pulled if I remember correctly. Yes keep claim and you will make it don't force anything. Take a break have a beer and go at it again you will make it

 

thanks ijaved , I got it! I thought once the key was in position 1 you weren't supposed to move it. But once I rotated the black cylinder and jiggled the key back toward position zero, it came apart. I removed the spring and pin and put it back together - all done thanks and thanks to rekcah again!

Everything seems to be fine. But, when the motor is running, the key seems easy to turn to the off position. Maybe its me. With all that GM key stuff, should I be concerned and replace the whole assembly?

many thanks.
upstate NY crossfire - not many of us....

 

That's awesome see having a beer helps LOL. Hmmmm I will check on mine. But I bet cause you just did the DIY

 

Thank you forum persons. I too was able to get everything apart and even removed the key cylinder but was unable to get to the pin to remove it and the spring. This is odd but half of the screws from the listings had apparently already been removed! I think I have a hybrid where someone put an SRT, fixed wing body on a Crossfire coupe because I don't have super-charger, the speedometer max is 160. And I have a 6-speed manual tran. New blue-tooth radio had been added, suede and leather seats, rear back up camera, and a Viper alarm system.

I say all this because I got it all reassembled and it doesn't stick anymore. However, my dash display light, does not work, nor the turn signals, or the rear view camera. So, because I have to check everything, anybody have an idea if there is a single source that I should look for?

 

Try disconnecting the battery for awhile then reconnect.

 

Sorry didn't read your post fully. Looks like you have a short somewhere. Check the fuse and if they check out then backtrack on disassembly steps and see if you might have accidently pulled a wire from the awesome setup you have

I think the fuse you are looking for it ""Electronic Transmission Control (Park / Reversing Lock) and BCM" (This is number 7 in the underhood fuse box on the driver's side.) taken from post by pizzaguy
"
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post516266

Someone more advance can shed more light on the issue I think.

 

Thank you for the information. I will try the fuse on the way home. Really weird that I thought of that but still not that adept at figuring this car out yet. Thank you for the notions. By the way, I did disconnect the battery as was suggested and same problem. That's why I was thinking that it was either that I disconnected a wire or a blown fuse or some sort of junction. As I said, it is the turn signals, display lights, high beam. I thought an odd combination.. I hope it is one of those. I don't relish taking it apart again. I don't have a ton of tools or gauges but it would be cheaper than using the Chysler/Dodge dealer 5 blocks away.

I will send pictures as requested this evening. Thank you everyone.

 

Hey everyone,

I am in a situation like everyone else on this thread. In the middle of my dismantling my sticky ignition switch, I ran into a problem after reading all the threads on benzworld and ccf i still have no clue how to remove it from inside the dash. The switch is stuck in "0" and I cannot remove the tumbler. I believe next i must pull the pin? drill? inorder to remove the the whole ignition housing. I have added some pictures of where i am at. Any guidance on where to drill as it is positioned in the dash will help. I saw what jeff kushner had posted on benzworld however that ignition switch looks different from the one in my xf? Or do I just drill the tumbler? Wish there was more pictures.

My hope is to repair this so I can drive to my first day on the job monday, lol...probably better off renting a car?

 

Go to the bottom of post one in this thread, click on "Version 5" and down load the instructions. It sounds like you are at step 10 right now, follow the "if your key won't turn" instructions.

Yes, it is time to drill. I do not envy you, I fixed mine BEFORE it locked up. I wish we could get the word out to everyone: FIX IT BEFORE IT FAILS!

 

So dremmel through the tumbler? then what? It should loosen up and I can remove it from the steering column? Do i still need to remove the pins? Also how do i remove the wire harness from the back? I am planning to order the new ignition switch and tumbler and suggestions where to buy and what part number works best?

I just want to throw it out there I have 167K on my XFire!!!!!and counting!!

 

So dremmel through the tumbler?
NO. Read the tutorial, you are drilling the pin out so you can remove the assembly from the column.

Do i still need to remove the pins?
You drill out the one pin that is holding it in the column.

Also how do i remove the wire harness from the back?
As I recall, you simply pull the connector off the back - I think I used pliers but it yanks off.

I am planning to order the new ignition switch and tumbler and suggestions where to buy and what part number works best?
I have no idea, in my expericence, there is no need to buy expensive lock parts. The only place I know of would be a CHrysler dealer.

I just want to throw it out there I have 167K on my XFire!!!!!and counting!!
You did good to get that far without this happening earlier. Mine started to fail at 44000 miles and I fixed it without drilling - but again, I got to it before it locked up completely; by simply following the tutorial in post #1.

 

Pizzaman- Thanks for answering my questions.

Just one more quick question, If I am able to push the pin in and remove the ignition switch from the steering column, In your opinion do you think I will be able to grind the end of switch down, which would enable me to release the "locked position"? The pin does push in for some reason?!

Thanks..sorry for the silly question.

 

Thank you IJaved...I actually saw anotther XFire, black convertable at Zona Rosa in KC last night. Bitewing I think he said his name was. Anyway, I'm going to have to take it apart again...to find the problem but here are some of the pictures.

 

Im not sure what you are asking here. If you can push the pin in, then do so and do the mod as described!

But from what I have read, your's is locked up and drilling is needed to get the assembly out. Once you get it out, following the instructions will get it fixed. All you need do is remove the cover, get the latch and spring out of there, and the key WILL turn at the point - and all is fixed.

 

Pizzaguy- OK, So from what I understand, now, is that I can remove a cover. Remove the latch and spring, and despite being "locked up", I will be able to utilize the old housing?

 

OK! Finally understand and car is running better then ever! Thank you PIZZAGUY for the stupid questions.

IF ANYONE IS IN THE CHICAGO-LAND AREA who needs help, has questions, with this common problem PM for my cell.

2004 Graphite Grey Crossfire
Issues so far: Transmission leak/Connector, Ignition Switch locked up 167K and counting!

 

cant find where to fix this problem please help lol

 

Go to post #1 and print out the .pdf file.

 

Did the fix on my 05 Limited. Wifey became stranded after school and key was locked @ #1 position. After several tries, I took my palm and smacked the console directly under the key while applying turning pressure on the key and SHAZAM, she became loose and started. Pretty straight forward as far as tutorial goes. I was able to remove the tumbler after turning the black cover with adjustable pliers. I also was able to rotate the key assembly clockwise before removal which made for easier access to disconnect the wire harness on the backside. After denting in the panel holding the pin and spring I wrapped a piece of cloth around the half of the plate and pryed the plate with a fine flat head till it popped loose, catching the spring. Only real problems I had was getting the bottom panel screws realigned, and some of the contorted positions were a pain. Remember to move the seat all the way back for easier access before removing the battery cable. (DOH!)