My vacuum line was snapped in half at the boot that runs from the liftgate to the body. The previous owner looks like the took white electrical tape and wrapped the line to seal it, so now I am left to deal with it. I am currently in the middle of replacing the line that runs from the pump to the rear hatch lock and I am hung up on the line connections. The line slips over a fitting which snaps over a "T" before it goes to the pump. Does the line pull off the fitting or does that cap/fitting pull off the "T"? Next is the line that runs to the liftgate. It look like the line slips over an "L" fitting that connects to the lock. Now can this just be pulled out? I have applied light pressure to each of the fittings but no luck. I am trying to avoid breaking the plastic, creating a new repair. Ideas thoughts? The line is hanging and home free, I just need to remove it from its fittings. Thanks for the help in advance!

 

Update: I snipped the line above the fittings and took a sharp blade, sliced the remaining and peeled it off. I am researching nylon, polyurethane, and polyethylene tubing at the moment. At this point I am leaning towards replacing the hatch tube with polyethylene tube due to its resilience when bending and flexing. Found a company that makes it in opaque yellow to match the stock tubing. Trying to keep everything as stock and clean as possible. When the job is finished I will try to post a tutorial with photos since this seems to be a big XF issue.

 

Im having the same problem,I hear the buzzing sound from the trunk actuator but truck remains unlocked front doors lock fine using the key..have you resolved this problem? I could use your insight..

 

Black Crossfire has not been on the forum since the end of October last year.
In your original post you should explain exactly what is wrong and the symptoms.
I did not bother to open the thread initially as it looked like it was about a truck, I saw later it was the trunk.

 

Sorry didnt know,I was just looking for answers..

 

Yes I have resolved the issue! It was rather simple. I removed the line by slicing it with a sharp blade and peeling it off the barbed fittings. I scoured the Mercedes forum looking for the actual tube used because there was no way I was paying 200 plus dollars for the cheap plastic tube from the dealer. You can find the tube here: http://www.autohausaz.com. Search for part number:

 

Yes I have resolved the issue! It was rather simple. I removed the line by slicing it with a sharp blade and peeling it off the barbed fittings. After I removed the interior panels. I scoured the Mercedes forum looking for the actual tube used (in bulk) because there was no way I was paying 200 plus dollars for the cheap plastic tube from the dealer. You can find the tube here: http://www.autohausaz.com. Search for part number: 0001581435. I ordered 3 meters for under 10 bucks, right on! All you will need to install is a heat gun and some time. Reply if you have any further questions. I'll check to see if I have any photos of the tear down. Cheers!

 

thank you so much,you saved me alot of time and money..

 

thanks again I just ordered 4meters just in case..

 

The number you give is a Mercedes part number 000 158 14 35 and if you ordered it from the dealer that is probably what you would get, $200 or not.

Another member here some years ago replaced all of the lines in his car and advised us to use something else, a different material altogether. If I recall correctly he worked in that business and wondered why they had used a material that failed so often. The material was OK for static use but could not take the flexing at the hatch. I'll see if I can find the post it was in.

 

That would be great to know what the other material is. I did a lot of research prior to purchasing the replacement line and did not have find much. Curious to know what the alternative is! If you could post a link to that, that would be great!

 

I searched all over then I found it was post #6 in this thread.
Click
The material recommended is polyurethane not vinyl.

 

Can all the inner door trim be taken off with the door closed. If not how do you affect a repair if the door is in the closed position?

 

You are referring to the hatch I assume. To do the repair the hatch has to be opened. The bottom trim on the door is carefully pried off and the latch is opened I think that air blown down the tube would operate the latch.
This is just my opinion as I have never had to do it.

 

Thanks for your response 180, hatch it is, ( tailgate or boot door here in UK. Two countries separated by a common language?). Not sure if the problem is a damaged lock mechanism or fractured vac line. Only had the car one week, door opened during my inspection but hasn't worked since. Air pump works AOK as do all other locks. Past experience tells me that small dia. poly pipe is a good substitute for yellow Merc tube. Any spray shop supply will have stock at little cost. I will post outcome once temp rises above freezing.

 

In the LH drive cars the hatch airline is teed to the passenger door line and I have always wondered if the application of a so called vacuum to the passenger door end of the line would overcome the leak it the hatch air line.
I do not think the vacuum can be too much as the vacuum that can obtained with a small pump cannot be less than -14 psi. in theory and would not actually get that low in practice. Applying a vacuum with an oil extraction unit might just do it.
If I recall correctly it is pressure that locks the doors and a so called vacuum that opens them. If that is wrong then pressure would have to be applied instead of a vacuum.

 

If it is the airline that has fractured my bet is it will have done so where the line enters the tailgate door as this is the only area that moves. If earlier threads are correct pressure does lock and vacuum opens. If fracture occurred after the lock was in a closed position, then as there is no vacuum to open it unless access to the line between lock and fracture or at the point of fracture is made, one would seem to be snookered. Hence my original question was the lining removable with the door closed.

 

I think if you read post 33 you'll see the area of the hose break mentioned and if you read the post 54 you'll see I answered that the trim can be pried of with the hatch closed but you have to be in the trunk to do it of course. I think a vacuum opens the locks, you can also get at the hoses by taking the wheel cover trim off and blow or suck on the air line for the hatch and passenger door, naturally from inside the closed trunk again.

 

FYI, when searching factory manuals, the correct term is "Liftgate" (At least that is what I recall)

 

Crossfire workshop manual Body Section 23-230 calls the door by all its names:- DECK LID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE. I guess they anticipated sales of the Crossfire in more than one country.