How To: Replace the Fuel Pump Relay Module
Firstly, a big thanks to everyone who has contributed to discovering and resolving this issue. It saved me a lot of heart ache that’s for sure and saved me from taking it to the local stealership to *laughs* diagnose the problem and then have them *laughs even harder* fix it.
I wanted to put our “Mystery No Start Issue” in a quick idiots picture guide for us all in a concise step by step process.
If this has already been posted my apologies, but here is hopefully something that will help those of us suffering from the same problem.
Diagnosis: As has been comprehensively covered in previous posts if your Crossfire won’t start, stops randomly in inconvenient places for no reason, has all the dash lights illuminated but no effort from the starter motor to kick the engine into life when you turn the key...chances are you need to replace the fuel pump relay control module. We have been told the reason why this needs to be replaced is that over time heat from the engine bay destroys the solder connections within the module. Thus commonly when the car ‘cools down’ it will start again.
Equipment needed:
·10mm Spanner to undo the negative battery terminal
·5 minutes, at the most, of your time
·A fuel pump relay control module.
S5000046 [].JPG
S5000047 [].JPG
I got mine from Mercedes Benz Australia part no: A 170 545 03 05. There is an equivalent Chrysler part but Mercedes were cheaper. Be prepared, this will set you back some cash mine cost AUD $549.95 express posted to me (US $434 roughly). I probably could have got this cheaper if I sourced it from the States but I didn’t have the luxury of time.
Step One:
S5000049 [].JPG
This is where you’ll be for the next couple of minutes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the lid on the fuse box.
Step Two:
S5000050 [].JPG
Locate the module and pull it out by slipping it out of the grasp of the two clasps either side of the module.
Step Three:
S5000051 [].JPG
Remove the five wire harness heads from the module using care not to pull on any of the wires. Once you’ve pulled them all out push them into their respective locators on the new module and place module back into the box from whence it came.
Step Four:
S5000052 [].JPG
Job Done! Replace the lid and re-connect the negative battery terminal. Note, you will get the ESP/BSP warning light come on because of disconnecting the battery terminal. Clear it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right and then centring it.
Take it for a test drive and wait another four or five years till you have to do it again!
I wanted to put our “Mystery No Start Issue” in a quick idiots picture guide for us all in a concise step by step process.
If this has already been posted my apologies, but here is hopefully something that will help those of us suffering from the same problem.
Diagnosis: As has been comprehensively covered in previous posts if your Crossfire won’t start, stops randomly in inconvenient places for no reason, has all the dash lights illuminated but no effort from the starter motor to kick the engine into life when you turn the key...chances are you need to replace the fuel pump relay control module. We have been told the reason why this needs to be replaced is that over time heat from the engine bay destroys the solder connections within the module. Thus commonly when the car ‘cools down’ it will start again.
Equipment needed:
·10mm Spanner to undo the negative battery terminal
·5 minutes, at the most, of your time
·A fuel pump relay control module.
S5000046 [].JPG
S5000047 [].JPG
I got mine from Mercedes Benz Australia part no: A 170 545 03 05. There is an equivalent Chrysler part but Mercedes were cheaper. Be prepared, this will set you back some cash mine cost AUD $549.95 express posted to me (US $434 roughly). I probably could have got this cheaper if I sourced it from the States but I didn’t have the luxury of time.
Step One:
S5000049 [].JPG
This is where you’ll be for the next couple of minutes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the lid on the fuse box.
Step Two:
S5000050 [].JPG
Locate the module and pull it out by slipping it out of the grasp of the two clasps either side of the module.
Step Three:
S5000051 [].JPG
Remove the five wire harness heads from the module using care not to pull on any of the wires. Once you’ve pulled them all out push them into their respective locators on the new module and place module back into the box from whence it came.
Step Four:
S5000052 [].JPG
Job Done! Replace the lid and re-connect the negative battery terminal. Note, you will get the ESP/BSP warning light come on because of disconnecting the battery terminal. Clear it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right and then centring it.
Take it for a test drive and wait another four or five years till you have to do it again!
Yes, I had the same problem.... but had the some solder laying around, so I resoldered the connections after pulling the circuit board out of the plastic housing. There were some hairline fractures around two of the joints. Hopefully, that was it.
I have the crank sensor.. just need to install. Hopefully those two will take care of my stalling and no start issues. Cleaning the throttle body a couple of months ago helped not stalling at idle.. good pictures!
I have the crank sensor.. just need to install. Hopefully those two will take care of my stalling and no start issues. Cleaning the throttle body a couple of months ago helped not stalling at idle.. good pictures!
Well, it SOUNDS like a lot of money, but my last repair on my ford pickup was $512 or so dollars. $350 for the module and about $155 labor.
Sorry for reviving this thread. I just need immediate help. Hope you understand.
I owned a Crossfire 4.6 liter that was running a little rough yesterday and it died on me a few times. Today it started rough, I pulled it out of the garage to change the oil and the oil coolant lines. Upon completion of the oil change I attempted to start it and no ignition. It cranked fine just no start up. I put about ½-oz of fuel directly in the TBI and cranked and it started and then quickly died. I replaced the fuel filter to be sure and while I had the filter off, I cranked the engine and there was no flow of fuel. I am pretty sure it is the pump, is there any way to test it or was my test adequate. This vehicle has 144,900 mile on it. I replaced the engine in the past with a factory GM crate engine. I think the fuel pump is original. To replace the pump do you know if there is an access panel or do I have to drop the tank?Also i am planning to replace it. Anyone here knows to replace fuel tank?
I owned a Crossfire 4.6 liter that was running a little rough yesterday and it died on me a few times. Today it started rough, I pulled it out of the garage to change the oil and the oil coolant lines. Upon completion of the oil change I attempted to start it and no ignition. It cranked fine just no start up. I put about ½-oz of fuel directly in the TBI and cranked and it started and then quickly died. I replaced the fuel filter to be sure and while I had the filter off, I cranked the engine and there was no flow of fuel. I am pretty sure it is the pump, is there any way to test it or was my test adequate. This vehicle has 144,900 mile on it. I replaced the engine in the past with a factory GM crate engine. I think the fuel pump is original. To replace the pump do you know if there is an access panel or do I have to drop the tank?Also i am planning to replace it. Anyone here knows to replace fuel tank?
Last edited by nelsonadams; Aug 27, 2013 at 03:04 AM.
Originally Posted by nelsonadams
Sorry for reviving this thread. I just need immediate help. Hope you understand.
I owned a Crossfire 4.6 liter that was running a little rough yesterday and it died on me a few times. Today it started rough, I pulled it out of the garage to change the oil and the oil coolant lines. Upon completion of the oil change I attempted to start it and no ignition. It cranked fine just no start up. I put about ½-oz of fuel directly in the TBI and cranked and it started and then quickly died. I replaced the fuel filter to be sure and while I had the filter off, I cranked the engine and there was no flow of fuel. I am pretty sure it is the pump, is there any way to test it or was my test adequate. This vehicle has 144,900 mile on it. I replaced the engine in the past with a factory GM crate engine. I think the fuel pump is original. To replace the pump do you know if there is an access panel or do I have to drop the tank?Also i am planning to replace it. Anyone here knows how to replace a fuel tank?
I owned a Crossfire 4.6 liter that was running a little rough yesterday and it died on me a few times. Today it started rough, I pulled it out of the garage to change the oil and the oil coolant lines. Upon completion of the oil change I attempted to start it and no ignition. It cranked fine just no start up. I put about ½-oz of fuel directly in the TBI and cranked and it started and then quickly died. I replaced the fuel filter to be sure and while I had the filter off, I cranked the engine and there was no flow of fuel. I am pretty sure it is the pump, is there any way to test it or was my test adequate. This vehicle has 144,900 mile on it. I replaced the engine in the past with a factory GM crate engine. I think the fuel pump is original. To replace the pump do you know if there is an access panel or do I have to drop the tank?Also i am planning to replace it. Anyone here knows how to replace a fuel tank?
Way too easy job! My Crossfire had all of the symptoms. I was not about to pay a tow truck & the local stealership to stab in the dark. I rolled the dice & bought the relay module. The replace was a snap, I did it in a McDonalds parking lot (that is where it gave up the ghost) in the rain with a buddy holding an umbrella. Disconnecting & reconnecting the battery took longer than replacing the module. Don't get me started on reprograming my aftermarket stereo, thinking about putting the stock one back in.
This must have been an issue for some time. My car has never had such a smooth idle, I keep looking at the tach to make sure it is still running. My Crossfire is running better than the day I bought it. The mileage seems slightly better but will know more in a few hundred miles.
FYI never use a 3196 bulb in the tail lights, trust me...
*115,000 miles
*replaced crank sensor @ 92K
*replaced relay module @115K
*change oil when promped by guage cluster
very happy crossfire owner...
This must have been an issue for some time. My car has never had such a smooth idle, I keep looking at the tach to make sure it is still running. My Crossfire is running better than the day I bought it. The mileage seems slightly better but will know more in a few hundred miles.
FYI never use a 3196 bulb in the tail lights, trust me...
*115,000 miles
*replaced crank sensor @ 92K
*replaced relay module @115K
*change oil when promped by guage cluster
very happy crossfire owner...
If you have the benefit of the time to do it, I would think that the use of a soldering iron and the application of a dab of solder is a much cheaper alternative.
Why throw out a perfectly good module and swap it for a part that has in all probability the same weakness in the solder joints.
I do not think that it is mileage that makes this fault occur, the weakness is there as I saw when I examined mine with less than 20,000 miles on the clock. I am sure that new modules have this fault and the solder joint is nigh on a dry joint to begin with.
To do the repair properly the solder should be wicked away from the area, the terminal cleaned and then re soldered. The terminal originally looks black to me and that is not conducive to a good solder joint.
Why throw out a perfectly good module and swap it for a part that has in all probability the same weakness in the solder joints.
I do not think that it is mileage that makes this fault occur, the weakness is there as I saw when I examined mine with less than 20,000 miles on the clock. I am sure that new modules have this fault and the solder joint is nigh on a dry joint to begin with.
To do the repair properly the solder should be wicked away from the area, the terminal cleaned and then re soldered. The terminal originally looks black to me and that is not conducive to a good solder joint.
Thanks for the instructions on doing this repair. However does anyone have a suggestion as to where I can find this part, I'm having some trouble finding anywhere that has this in stock. Thanks again, love my crossfire, just need it to start.
There are five solenoids changed when you change this part not just one.
Go here if you want to change just the fuel pump relay.
How do you know this is the problem?
Last edited by onehundred80; Mar 28, 2013 at 10:50 PM.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate the help very much
I actually took it to the dealership to figure out what the problem was. (this was unfortunately before I knew of this forum's existence) they wanted to charge an unholy amount of money to fix the problem so I did some research and found this little gem of a site and I've already learned more about my car than I realized there was to know.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate the help very much
I actually took it to the dealership to figure out what the problem was. (this was unfortunately before I knew of this forum's existence) they wanted to charge an unholy amount of money to fix the problem so I did some research and found this little gem of a site and I've already learned more about my car than I realized there was to know.
There are five relays in the RCM and if you know how you can replace the failed relay for less than $20.
You say you need one but you have not said what the problem is and so you are getting no help here.
Just because the dealer said you need one does not mean to say he was correct.
Your choice though. My spare RCM cost me $45 plus shipping.
You say you need one but you have not said what the problem is and so you are getting no help here.
Just because the dealer said you need one does not mean to say he was correct.
Your choice though. My spare RCM cost me $45 plus shipping.
Firstly, a big thanks to everyone who has contributed to discovering and resolving this issue. It saved me a lot of heart ache that’s for sure and saved me from taking it to the local stealership to *laughs* diagnose the problem and then have them *laughs even harder* fix it.
I wanted to put our “Mystery No Start Issue” in a quick idiots picture guide for us all in a concise step by step process.
If this has already been posted my apologies, but here is hopefully something that will help those of us suffering from the same problem.
Diagnosis: As has been comprehensively covered in previous posts if your Crossfire won’t start, stops randomly in inconvenient places for no reason, has all the dash lights illuminated but no effort from the starter motor to kick the engine into life when you turn the key...chances are you need to replace the fuel pump relay control module. We have been told the reason why this needs to be replaced is that over time heat from the engine bay destroys the solder connections within the module. Thus commonly when the car ‘cools down’ it will start again.
Equipment needed:
·10mm Spanner to undo the negative battery terminal
·5 minutes, at the most, of your time
·A fuel pump relay control module.
Attachment 15597
Attachment 15598
I got mine from Mercedes Benz Australia part no: A 170 545 03 05. There is an equivalent Chrysler part but Mercedes were cheaper. Be prepared, this will set you back some cash mine cost AUD $549.95 express posted to me (US $434 roughly). I probably could have got this cheaper if I sourced it from the States but I didn’t have the luxury of time.
Step One:
Attachment 15599
This is where you’ll be for the next couple of minutes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the lid on the fuse box.
Step Two:
Attachment 15600
Locate the module and pull it out by slipping it out of the grasp of the two clasps either side of the module.
Step Three:
Attachment 15601
Remove the five wire harness heads from the module using care not to pull on any of the wires. Once you’ve pulled them all out push them into their respective locators on the new module and place module back into the box from whence it came.
Step Four:
Attachment 15602
Job Done! Replace the lid and re-connect the negative battery terminal. Note, you will get the ESP/BSP warning light come on because of disconnecting the battery terminal. Clear it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right and then centring it.
Take it for a test drive and wait another four or five years till you have to do it again!
I wanted to put our “Mystery No Start Issue” in a quick idiots picture guide for us all in a concise step by step process.
If this has already been posted my apologies, but here is hopefully something that will help those of us suffering from the same problem.
Diagnosis: As has been comprehensively covered in previous posts if your Crossfire won’t start, stops randomly in inconvenient places for no reason, has all the dash lights illuminated but no effort from the starter motor to kick the engine into life when you turn the key...chances are you need to replace the fuel pump relay control module. We have been told the reason why this needs to be replaced is that over time heat from the engine bay destroys the solder connections within the module. Thus commonly when the car ‘cools down’ it will start again.
Equipment needed:
·10mm Spanner to undo the negative battery terminal
·5 minutes, at the most, of your time
·A fuel pump relay control module.
Attachment 15597
Attachment 15598
I got mine from Mercedes Benz Australia part no: A 170 545 03 05. There is an equivalent Chrysler part but Mercedes were cheaper. Be prepared, this will set you back some cash mine cost AUD $549.95 express posted to me (US $434 roughly). I probably could have got this cheaper if I sourced it from the States but I didn’t have the luxury of time.
Step One:
Attachment 15599
This is where you’ll be for the next couple of minutes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the lid on the fuse box.
Step Two:
Attachment 15600
Locate the module and pull it out by slipping it out of the grasp of the two clasps either side of the module.
Step Three:
Attachment 15601
Remove the five wire harness heads from the module using care not to pull on any of the wires. Once you’ve pulled them all out push them into their respective locators on the new module and place module back into the box from whence it came.
Step Four:
Attachment 15602
Job Done! Replace the lid and re-connect the negative battery terminal. Note, you will get the ESP/BSP warning light come on because of disconnecting the battery terminal. Clear it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right and then centring it.
Take it for a test drive and wait another four or five years till you have to do it again!
I have the same symptoms u mentioned in my 04 crossfire but is there any way i can know for sure that the problem is the fuel pump relay model and not the fuel pump itself without taking it to the dealership?
Where can i find the fuel pump localy (not from Australia
Turbomar used the other part number - 210 540 00 72 and it worked and as he said the price is right.
Last edited by onehundred80; Jan 21, 2015 at 04:11 PM.
You can buy a used one from eBay, there are some other part numbers that work if you have the time to check them out.
Turbomar used the other part number - 210 540 00 72 and it worked and as he said the price is right.
Turbomar used the other part number - 210 540 00 72 and it worked and as he said the price is right.
i almost lost the hope of getting any answer since the original thread is old.
Appreciated ..
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