See the PDF CLICK

 

That LOOKS like the right one. The specs in the link look right and I believe our relays are "Form A" which are SPST (single pole, single throw - that means their contacts "make" only when power is applied to the coil, when power is removed, the contacts relax but there is no "normally open" contact that then is connected to the "common" pin. This makes since, since our relays are used to turn on the fuel pump, starter, etc. They are not used to switch between one thing with power applied to the relay coil and another with power not applied to the relay coil).

I have looked and looked, looks like all relays in the diagrams ARE SPST "Form A" type. The ELECTRICAL specs are fine, I just wonder about the pinout - are these pins in the exact same position as ours? Hard to tell from photos, but I bet they are. I think this is a winner, 100/80. How much are they in lots of one or two? I'd spend a few dollars to get one in my hands - if they are 'the one', it'd pay for someone among us to have a few! (Thinking of a guy in Arizona we all know, but then, if they are a few dollars, I'll keep some around here.)

You can unsolder these using a clean iron and "Solder Wick", just so you are careful. I find that flowing a lot of EXTRA solder on first makes the wick work better. But I prefer to use my desoldering vacuum.



I hate to think of just how many modules that are replaced just because one relay gets sluggish or it's contacts get pitted. Relays ARE notoriously unreliable.

 

[quote=pizzaguy]That LOOKS like the right one......
I have looked and looked, looks like all relays in the diagrams ARE SPST "Form A" type. The ELECTRICAL specs are fine, I just wonder about the pinout - are these pins in the exact same position as ours? Hard to tell from photos, but I bet they are. I think this is a winner..[quote]
I measured the pin pattern with a vernier and it looks just fine. Price wise they can't cost too much, I'll go to a store I know that has all kinds of stuff like this.

 

I like the direction you guys went on this.

 

ALWAYS THINKING AHEAD, please keep everyone posted.

 

I was reading through the shop manual to try to find a part number or rating on the relays and it repeatedly said if one relay goes bad you must replace the whole RCM. LOL!!! You are doing a good thing by sourcing these things, because that is a $30 fix if you need to go out and buy a soldering iron! I'd love to see more threads like this that go more in depth on the elctronic systems of the car. Megasquirt is one of the coolest things in the world to me because all the information is available for you to digest (www.megamanual.com - SERIOUSLY CHECK IT OUT!).

 

Mark, I think what you meant is that there is no "normal closed" position on that relay. That is a "normal open" relay since it needs power to "close". Correct me if I'm wrong...

James

 

He said no "normally open" contact, meaning it is normally open but there is no contact in that position, unlike the power seat relay for instance.

 

I Have Read All The Treads On Rcm Fix, I Tried Them And Still No Help. I Also Changed The Batteries In The Key Fob, Now The Car Cranks More Often But Cuts Off In 4 Seconds. I Can Get The Car To Crank With The Key I Haven't Changed The Battery In And It Will Run Longer And Then Cut Off. What Am I Doing Wrong? Is This Rcm Covered Under The 8/80 Warranty? Please Help, I Want To Drive This Baby.

 

Have you tried to reprogram the key fob? It sounds like you have a problem in the security system that's not reading the security code. If the car starts and stalls out a few seconds after it's most likely the security system.

 

No I Haven't Tried That. I'll See If There Is A Tread On That And Try It, Thanks

 

This tell you how.

 

The transponder works without any batteries. The batteries only power the transmitter for the remote opening and locking of the doors.

Have you got any codes set?

 

I remembered that after I posted it.. my bad. But his problem sounds like it's in the security system if it starts and then shuts off a few seconds after.

 

I Haven't Check For Codes Yet. But I Did Resolder The Bad Joints, Right Where The Pictures Show. Tried To Start Car With Key And There Was Nothing. Tried 5 Or 6 Times And Finally The Starter Clicked Once And Then Cranked The Next Time. It Run About 2 Minutes And Shut Down.after A Few Minutes It Would Crank Again And Run. Then Iput New Batteries In The Key Fob And Tried That And It Cranked More Often But Would Shut Down In A Few Seconds.

 

What was the problem you were having before you soldered it. The more I think about it could be the fuel pump relay and not the security system like I first thought.

 

To Start With, You Turn Switch And Nothing Happens,all The Dash Lights Are On And Horn Blows . So I Replace The Battery. This Didn't Help At All. Then I Checked Out The Rcm And Resoldered The Bad Joints And This Didn't Help Any. I Then Change The Batteries In The Key Fob And It Would Crank More Often But Would Shut Down In 2 Seconds. Inow Have Reprogramed Thefob And It Didn't Crank The First Couple Of Times And Then It Sarted Cranking And Ran Around 12 Minutes And Then Shut Down, I Did This A Few Times, But It Now Almost Cranks Everytime Time You Try.

 

CPS.......crankshaft positon sensor. Mine would start, but run rough then die. Does it do this when it runs or is it smooth as normal? Rough, I'd say CPS..

 

Once again 180 thanks again for the good info and Pictures.

 

It Runs Smooth. Also When It Cranks It Hardly Even Turns Over Before It Starts