It happen to me yesterday had the car towed, and then it started. I did the fix now we will see.

 

It happen to me yesterday had the car towed, and then it started. I did the fix now we will see.

 

I hope this was your issue lakeview! or i would have to come down there with some parts haha

 

I really appreciate you doing such a good job on this thread, but I want to add to it. I was having the same problem and followed your instructions, but when I inspected the joints, they are all perfectly fine. I Thoroughly inspected the entire module paying close attention to every feature. While I had the RCM disassembled, I decided to pull the fuses and check them. When I pulled one of the fuses, I noticed one of the copper bars along the top flange move closer to the plastic. As I pulled the rest of them, it eventually was flat against that top plastic flange. When I replaced the fuses, the bar once again moved away from the flange. I pulled them again and inspected the mechanics involved an noticed that the fuses actually make contact with tabs bent up @ 90deg angles to the bar. These tabs are intended to ride the side of the fuse tabs that get inserted. What was happening is the tap was impacting the end of the fuse tab instead of riding the side of it and pushing the bar away. When I inspected everything further, I noticed that the bar used to be secured to the plastic flange with little plastic **** that were heat staked after the bar was in place to secure it. one of these **** was missing allowing the bar to deviate. so depending on which fuse was inserted and the luck of the draw, one of the fuses was not making any contact with the bar. I was able to press the bar and top of the fuses between my fingers squeezing the bar back in place and forcing it to slide beside the fuse flange. Now the problem is gone, but I wont be able to check those fuses again unless i disassemble the RCM again and make sure they are properly mating.

I hope this helps someone else.

Craig

 

I checked my RCM this morning. Sure enough the same soldering joints were weak. The preventative fix took 10 mins. Thanks Tighed1 for the tech tip, preventing me from frustrating down time and money in the near future.

Turbomar

 

Figured better safe than sorry on this simple fix, so pulled mine out today for inspection.
Not knowing the history of mine, does the factory replacement have a better solder job? Mine was "perfect" so to say, nice buildup of solder on the terminals. Contacts on the relays were pristeen condition too. Did notice mine had the numbers 07 06 S on it which is why I question it having already been replaced.

 

Well guys, I'm in the same boat now. Would like some help diagnosing the issue.

I've had the 2005 convertible LTD (30,000mi) for about 3 months now.

A few months ago I hopped in the car and No Start. All the lights are on everything works. When I insert the key and turn, I hear things power up (like a little motor somewhere spins up) but when I push the key all the way, nothing! I scratched my head for a while, trying again and again. I fiddled with the gear selector making sure it was in Park, still nothing. I took a walk around the car to look at the exterior, kick the tires and then boom, it worked. (obviously unrelated but just a silly coincidence to the exterior check).

A few weeks ago my check engine light came on, then went off the next day. A week later it repeated the cycle. I bought an obd2 reader and got the P1040 code.

I went out to Lunch and back this week with no problems. Then tried to start it again and it mysteriously wont start!

I have since studied this thread in detail. Took out the RCM and examined the solders. I don't see any obvious pitting or cracks under magnification but the protruding posts look suspect. I am not the most skilled with the iron and I am afraid mine is a bit too large, nonetheless I re-soldered the bad connections to the best of my ability.

ALAS, still nothing!! Everything lights up but no starter, no clicking, nothing.
The battery reads 11.5v. I have not checked for voltage drop under load but since there's no action from a starter motor I doubt my voltimeter would not show a drop anyway.

I am thinking either my re-solder job sucks and I need to send it to Tighten1.
Maybe the battery is on it's way out.
Maybe it's the crankshaft sensor.

Any recommendations on my next move?

 

I think the battery should be at least 12.5v??? 11.5 is too low.

 

Would that be too low to get even a solenoid engagement on the starter? Fire off your headlights and see if they seem dim.. Haven't seen anything in a thread..and I read them just for incases down the road.. but do we have a nuetral safety switch in these cars?

 

A fully deep charged battery should be about 12.7 volts of more.
11.5 is low enough to not crank but still power lights etc.

What year is your car ??
Might be time for that new battery !!

 

11.5V is very low, I'd look at that before the RCM soldering.

-Dan-

 

I just had to resolder mine, only 10 months after the last occasion, so hopefully I did a better job this time.

Whilst stranded I called the RAC (UK roadside assistance) and the guy told me that many cars enable the immobiliser at low voltage because trying to start in this state can damage the electronics. He wasn't sure if this is true of the Crossfire but he was happy with my 12.45v.

I'd agree with other posters that a new battery or at least an overnight external charge would be a good bet for you.

 

Thanks for the advice on the voltage!

I pulled the battery to take it to Pep Boys this morning. I found quite a lot of corrosion from the vent on the negative side.


Hoping to get a second opinion on the voltage, Pep Boys said the battery is low and needs to charge. They would know if the battery was good or not after a 45 minute charge.
The guy came back with a slip of paper that showed the beginning charge at 12.26v and the ending voltage at 12.68v and says the battery is good.

Being that this is a daily driver that is the likely culprit to my mystery no start, it looks like the original battery and the corrosion its dribbled all over my engine bay - I decided to just get a new battery anyway.

The recommended battery for the crossfire was a 770amp for $149. I asked him to look up '03 SLK320 which had a second option for $104 and 620amps. I went with the higher amperage.

I haven't installed the battery yet. I scrubbed out some of the corroded battery tray and surrounding cables and sprayed some black rustoleum to cover the rust. Waiting for it to dry.

Only question is; is the crossfire supposed to have battery vent tubes? I didnt keep the little clear plastic box that was on the old battery - It was covered in orange corrosion.

 

Bad news guys.
She still won't start, even with the new battery.


She fired up for just a brief second then died out again. Its almost like there was a small amount of fuel in the line. Then the engine just faded out and died. This happened twice the other day when this mystery no start began.

So now I have a new battery.
I also did a questionable job on the RCM re-solder.


I cleaned the contact on the RCM switch closest to the firewall as described earlier in this thread. Hopefully that may abate the P1401(0401?) code I got right before all this started.


Now what? Crankshaft sensor? Secondary air injection pump? Fuel pump?

 

I tested the RCM as it was plugged into the car. I disconnected the neg battery cable, unplugged the connectors, removed the case, replaced the connectors and battery cable. Then using a plastic zip tie, actuated each relay by hand. Each relay caused something to happen (event the horn, which the bump on my head will testify).

I feel confident that the RCM is working properly.

While in there, I noticed a couple ground wires coming out of the black box that attach to the frame just under the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. The connection showed exterior corrosion from the battery so I cleaned it up a bit.

Now I will turn my attention to the Crank Position Sensor.
I wonder if there is a way to test it before purchasing a new one?

 

This is a 'reluctance' device.
You could test it using a scope or analog meter to see if it is working at all by measuring the voltage across the 2 terminals and passing something steel across the head, BUT this will only confirm that is has some output. What the correct output P-P voltage should be, I don't know.

NOTE: This sensor is operated by the 'tone wheel' that is part of the flywheel assembly, it could be damaged/warped in which case replacing the CPS won't help.

Remove the CPS sensor and put your eyeball on a long probe and observer the tone wheel through the CPS mounting hole while someone turns the engine with the starter. If it is seen to wobble back and forth, then you are in a whole new world of hurt.

BOTTOM LINE, SPEND THE $100 BUCKS AND REPLACE THE SENSOR, THEY ARE KNOWN TO BE A PROBLEM.

( Many forum members keep a spare GOOD crankshaft sensor and a spare camshaft sensor in the trunk, along with tools necessary for replacement )

 

Testing the RCM in this method will not prove much. The relay controlling the start circuit would not be energized unless the key was turned at the same time. Another way would be to have someone turn the key to start and watch to see/listen for the relay pulling in.
To be sure it's not the RCM "no start" problem, I would follow the full RCM removal and solder procedure in this thread.
Good luck.

edit: Sorry I missed your earlier posts where you already performed the re-solder procedure.

 

There is a method to check these and it is explained in the repair manual, Section 9, page 334.

 

Hello all. I just got an 05 coupe and second day I owned it it would not start. I had just looked at this post 10 minutes before I went out to start it and guess what no start..got it fixed in 15 minutes flat..THANK YOU whoever figured this out and posted this awesome article...

 

Yer welcome!
Welcome to the forum too!