There was a note on the report that I might need new keys.

 

**Update**

Car is back on the road

It ended up not being the SKREEM module but rather the door lock module part number 5099541AA. The best part about this was it was 400 bucks cheaper to fix! Grand total was $591.06. Much better than $1049.00

 

UPDATE Hope I'm not repeating myself. I replied to the SKREEM thread. My issue came out the same as msheredy. Suspected SKREEM and I ended up with a Door Lock Module.......same part number. $402........let's hope my days on the side of I-75 are over for a while.

 

Did you get any explanation for the fix by chance? My SA was on the phone and it was the end of the day so I just wanted to get home.

 

Matt

I questioned the guy who fixed it. Cited "random electronic cooties". Since I got a cam AND crankshaft modules in late Sept., I wanted to know if they were related and/or what was next in the Electronics-a-month club membership. Seriously disturbed me that the 7-year warranty expired on August 14. 2012. Not so much as a whimper from car in all that time.

I may or may not be navigating this website correctly. I would love to buy a relay control module from that nice gentleman who re-solders them. I do not think this fiasco is done. I love the car too much to sell it.

 

Not bad for an installed price, these parts online go for $120 - $130.

 

That would be tighed1, but I do not think he 'sells' them, he just sends you a good one and you return your bad one. ( you pay shipping both ways and contribute $10 or so to his beer fund )
I recently sent him a spare I had ( courtesy of rayth, who had the dealer install a new one )
so he could keep his repaired stock level up.

 

Super detailed procedure. I used this along with onehundred80's post for addressing the Code P410 air pump relay issue. I inspected the solder points for the relay and sure enough they were starting to show points of failure. I have 32k miles on my 04' so hopefully the resolder will hold for awhile. It just seems really odd that this is such a common problem not only for the xfire but the mb slk's as well.

Thanks everyone who contributes to this forum! This is saving thousands of dollars for everyone and I am happy to contribute to maintain this forum!

 

Seems to me that some electronics genius like pizzaguy or tighed1 would look at this and say "eureka !!! I could replace all them pesky relays with NPN or PNP power transistors and this sucker would never fail again .....
I am not that genius, however I do know that all these relays are SPST's, so a transistor should work ....

 

Just want to give my thanks to you guys for this fix. I just moved to Atlanta from NJ and had my car shipped down after getting some work done at the NJ dealership--including a brand-new battery. So you could imagine my surprise when the car wouldn't start. First time, I think the battery actually had an issue, as the lights wouldn't come on and I got the click-click-click.

But the two times after that, about two days apart each time...no sound, all lights on, AAA guys mystified on the cause. Jump-starting it worked both times, but it was clearly not a battery issue based on tests, and they were 99% certain it wasn't the starter, either.

Came here, saw the fix. Pulled the RCM myself, then took it into a TV repair shop and had it redone. That was almost a week ago, and I've had no issues since.

So, thank you for saving me the money--much appreciated!

 

Been meaning to express my appreciation to everyone on this board for all the useful information about my Crossfire. Saved me money and kept me from pulling out what little hair I have left. My air pump recently went out (P0410 code?) so I pulled the relay control module and sure enough, there was a cracked solder joint at the far right relay. I was able to find a new OEM module for $129, so I installed that and the problem was solved. I resoldered the old module so its ready to go in if (when?) the new one fails.

 

Where did you find the module for $129? Ebay?

 

I got lucky and got mine on eBay for $45, you just have to wait.

 

I have 2 faulty RCM's at the moment. One is in my car with the Air Injection Pump and the other has to do with the fuel pump.

If anyone has a fixed one ready to go I would be willing to give my other 2 to you to keep and fix for future uses and to help out other members. PM me.

I've noticed DJ hasnt been around in about 3 weeks was trying to have him fix mine.

 

Has anyone tried to use the Mercedes RCM off an older SLK (part A2105400072)? The only difference I noticed is a 15 amp fuse in place of the 20 amp in the row of 5 fuses on top. Here's a link to one for sale on eBay, in this case off of an E420:

1997 MERCEDES E420 Fuse Combo Relay Control Module A2105400072 ~xx | eBay

 

Why bother? For the same price, maybe less, you can get the correct part.
I got my spare which was perfect, except for the solder joints, for $45 on eBay.

 

I searched eBay for the newer part number and couldn't find one for under $170, yet there were about a dozen of the older models for sale at a fraction of the price. I'm going to compare it in detail with the one in our cars to see if there is any difference besides age.

 

I think you should try and replace a relay if that is the problem. I think that a burnt relay is the usual reason to replace the RCM. These relays are really cheap, if you pay more than $10 for one you are paying too much.

The trick is to de-solder it, but it is not rocket science.

Here is my post on this issue.

 

If ever I have this problem, THIS would be the fix. $ doesn't come easily in this household and I try to hold on to every penny I can. I see it every day and hear of it more often, if you can desolder/solder (or know someone who does) than this is the best fix for a damaged relay in a piece of electronic hardware. I haven't looked into the current rating of the device controlled, but it sounds like the OEM relay contacts were under-spec'd. If they were not, then the cause of the over current condition should be found and fixed BEFORE a repair is done as this will only stress the repair to the point of another failure down the road (if the replacement relay is the same current rating on the relay contact side of the circuit).

 

Here's some photos showing the older A2105400072 RCM against the Crossfire's stock RCM. The only difference I could find was another 15 amp fuse in the older one instead of 20 amp. The car started up fine with the the older RCM. I'll be using it as peace-of-mind for my 1,600 mile road trip coming up soon.