I sent you an e mail. Fastest reply’s for help EVER! I love this forum. The wisest and most knowledgeable men on earth. Wouldn’t know what to do without you guys! All the best

 

I appreciate your help. Thank you for your quick reply

 

"...RCM from DJ"... who/where is DJ?

 

tighed1@hotmail.com

 

Hi DJ. I may have met you at the Woodward Dream Cruise in 2019, as that was the last time I was there. I put a note in my phone that if I ever had a RCM issue, to contact you. I now live in Northern Michigan. My problem is that my Xfire will start, but all gauges freeze and all warning lights including "beeping" stay on (speedo says 45 mph while parked in my garage). The most concerning, is 15 seconds after starting, the Radiator Fan goes "Supersonic"!! as if the fan blades are going to break off from such a fast speed. This happened to me two summers ago, and when I disconnected the battery and reconnected, it fixed the problem. No such luck this time. Do you still think its the RCM??? My direct email is averyweisling@comcast.net my cell is 248-240-3121. Would really like to chat. I can email or text you a 30 second video taken while sitting in my garage. Won't upload to this system. Thanks!

 

DJ TIGHE

3601 Pinnacle Ct

Sierra Vista, AZ 85650

 

But he prefers an email first:

tighed1@hotmail.com

 

Wow, that's a new one, and I've been here Thirteen years.

DJ is seldom on here, and he's not known for live-on-the-phone advice, I would suggest you start a thread of your own with the above information. I think you may actually have an ECU issue. (Can't believe I'm saying that. It would be a simple matter to swap RCMs between your car and another car and see what happens, but, since the engine runs so the Engine Control relay is fine. MANY of us carry a spare RCM, I finally bought one last week. You might just order an RCM and see if that fixes it, and if it does or even if it doesn't, I'd send the old one to have him replace the relays and reflow the board, That is what I did, mine failed two weeks ago, I shipped it to him and he fixed it, but I also bought a new one, so I now have a spare. We all should have a spare crank sensor and RCM in our cars.

The speedo saying 45 is OUT THERE. The fan running fast implies the ECU is not talking to the fan module - but if the engine is running, the ECU has to be alive.

I don't suppose you jump started this car with another car, did you?
Or did you use some kind of plug-it-into-the-wall car-starting instant battery charger-booster? Those things are one step below hooking a welder up to the car.
WHat history is there with the car?

I've been here a LONG time, never heard this one. THe speedo is driven by information from the ABS module, the fan is operated by the ECU thru the FCM.
This just isnt making sense. Here's a question: Exactly WHICH warning lights are on?

 

Hi Pizza Guy. Really appreciate your reply. I was able to get a hold of my old Mercedes Mechanic (4 hours south of me) and he told me to disconnect both positive and negative cables and the hold them together, and even tape them for at least 5 minutes. He said this should "clear" system. Then reconnect both cables to their orignal Positive and Negative posts. Well I'll be damned. Car started with normal warning light sequence. The speedometer returned to zero, and the car runs just like it did before the "Haywire". Because the car always started and stayed running, I'm going to have to rule out the RCM. Although I will remove and inspect it sometime very soon. I will post if anything changes. My Xfire is a 2007. Convertible by the way, with 115,000 miles. Still lovin it!

 

Fogot to include that ALL Warning Light would stay on while the car was running. The car stayed running until I turned the key off.

 

.


N8BENZ, I'm going to remember that. Thanks!


.

 

When I read this and think for a few seconds, it brings to mind something for you to consider. It is sounding like the ECU was "off in lalaland". What I mean by that, is like when your computer or phone "locks up" and displays a solid blue screen or simply wont respond to commands and a restart fixes it.

Now, given the history of our cars and how electrical disturbances can cause real trouble (like when I was putting my top up without the engine running and the system 'spiked', taking out my seatbelt module). With this in mind, you might consider the condition of the battery, battery cables, ground strap from block to chassis, etc. That is, look for a cause for system voltage variations.

Something that Iv'e done to my last two Crossfires is to try to secure better battery/block/chassis continuity. James1549 apparently was thinking the same thing as me and invented a mod I liked so much, I did my own version. You might consider doing his trick or my trick.

Read about it here:
My fix for a ground cable to the engine - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource

 

Ok my mistake

 

This is such an incredible Forum with some really bright and helpful people. I recently had the dreaded "start- no start" issue and was able to quickly fix it with the information from Tighed 1
Just want to say thanks for the time and effort that allows a knucklehead like me to effectively work on my car. Thanks to all of you that make this forum work like it does.

 

I resoldered mine the other day after the stalling issue. 15 minute job, easy as can be. Just need five credit cards to release the relay panel from the box, LOL.

 

Be aware, the relays can stick as the RCM gets older.

 

Mine are in pristine condition. I was shocked, looked new.

 

Hi,

Well, where do I start, I have recently bought the car it had the check engine light on. So, following the recommended actions, bought an ODBII reader and yes, a P0410 error, I did all the initial testing and even bought a vacuum pump to test the pipework. I diagnosed it down the RCM (Secondary air pump as it worked when you put 12v across it but never powered up when starting the car).

So I bought a second hand RCM which I was told had had the re-solder done, upon checking, sure enough it had. So, with much hope I unplugged the old RCM, plugged in with the new... Oh dear, no crank and a couple of other spurious things happened, as I tried to crank the car over, the rear wing came up followed by a couple of seconds later, the cooling fan came on... Hmm even worse mess.

After poking round with a meter, I was able to deduce that the fault with my original RCM was due to the fact that someone had tired to do the re-solder on the three pins and managed to introduce a short between the middle and the outer pins, so, having cut the join, it looks like I have potentially fixed the original error as the secondary air pump now turns on as it should do for the first 30 seconds. Hurrah!!

Now, why am I letting you all this... Ideally I would like to get the faulty RCM fixed and in to my spares bag. So, where should I start looking, any assistance would be greatly appreciated. When turning the key to position III (I think, dash lights on, just before start) none of the relays set, having operated the now fixed RCM, it looks like the middle 3 relays should initially click over, so I think it is something like a common earth or component, could someone please point me in a direction to look.

I am happy to send the unit to our forum guru @tighed1, only I am in the UK and worried it may get lost in the courier system between here and there.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

 

Either learn to solder, order new relays and learn to do electrical diagnostics, or just ship it to DJ. If shipping bothers you that much, order a new RCM for an SLK230 or SLK320.
I see no reason to make this so hard.

And be CAREFUL about buying used electronic modules - you must only buy from those on here we know, who will stand behind what they sold. The internet is full of used junk electronic parts, and I do not mean just Crossfire parts.

 

Hmm, thanks I think, I was told this forum was friendly and helpful but your reply seems a little insulting to say the least... i can solder and was asking for guidance, not a lecture...