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From a tighed1 thread. TIP: The one time use cap that covers the trans fill tube CAN be use over and over again. The trick is to snap off the rectangular piece on the top of the cap and then use a small screwdriver or whatever and push the remaining part of the “lock” down through the cap. Keep the “lock” part, yer gonna reuse it.
From a tighed1 thread. TIP: The one time use cap that covers the trans fill tube CAN be use over and over again. The trick is to snap off the rectangular piece on the top of the cap and then use a small screwdriver or whatever and push the remaining part of the “lock” down through the cap. Keep the “lock” part, yer gonna reuse it.
Is it a "one-time use" cap? I didn't look at it that way (since it was the only cap I had). The stub of the red locking push-pin that's left once you break off its 'head' could be slid back down inside the cap, but why would you do that? Who exactly, are you locking-out from checking your transmission fluid level? All that red push-pin does is shove the "grasping claw" of the cap completely underneath the rolled-metal-lip at the very top of the trans fill-tube. The cap's "grasping claw" already comes into contact with that lip such that you have to pull up with some force to overcome it and remove the cap. So even without the red locking-pin there's no way in Hell that transmission cap is coming off by itself! (Which BTW, is my entire point) Why would you ever reinstall a lock? Who are you securing access against?
Is it a "one-time use" cap? I didn't look at it that way (since it was the only cap I had). The stub of the red locking push-pin that's left once you break off its 'head' could be slid back down inside the cap, but why would you do that? Who exactly, are you locking-out from checking your transmission fluid level? All that red push-pin does is shove the "grasping claw" of the cap completely underneath the rolled-metal-lip at the very top of the trans fill-tube. The cap's "grasping claw" already comes into contact with that lip such that you have to pull up with some force to overcome it and remove the cap. So even without the red locking-pin there's no way in Hell that transmission cap is coming off by itself! (Which BTW, is my entire point) Why would you ever reinstall a lock? Who are you securing access against?
I really do it know, locking it in position means it will not fallout, I have no idea how tight it is.
Someone could put engine oil in it.
I am just stating what was previously posted, this is not the only mention of the clips reuse on the forum. As the old saying goes ‘Do not shoot the messenger’.
Let's just all agree what the purpose of that red locking-pin is. It's sole purpose is to dissuade YOU, THE OWNER, from servicing your own transmission. After all, at that time Mercedes-Benz was still in the death-throes of pushing its LIFETIME FLUID fallacy regarding ATF! If you are a forgiving person you might say, "Yes, but their competition (Land Rover, etc.) was advertising they had life-time ATF which never needed servicing, so that was a sales tactic Mercedes needed to respond to." OK, why then in Mercedes' next-generation of vehicles did they remove the transmission fill-tube entirely? To make it EVEN HARDER for YOU, THE OWNER, to service your own vehicle; that's why. How dare you deny Mercedes-Benz dealerships their RIGHT to service your Mercedes vehicle! THIS IS ALL ABOUT MONEY. (and WE, the owners, not being so stingy attempting to hang on to ours!) 🤑🤑💰💰💰💲💲💲
While "Auto Auction Rebuilds", a 'shade tree' mechanic, pumps out all he can before adding any new fluid, as (quote) "I've done it that way all my life without any problems."
Dumb question 249: Once I dump the trans fluid from the drain pan and torque converter, where does one put the stuff back into the car? Pump in using the dip stick fill tube?
The drain plug should be tighten to 10Nm for 8mm hex screw
There is a procedure of refilling the torque converter from the drain pan. Procedure in the video.
The video is of a 722.9 transmission which is a seven speed. I just completed a rear main seal replacemenet in a 2005 Mercedes CLK 500 with the Crossfire sister engine M113 with the 722.9 transmission. NO DRAIN PLUG ON CONVERTER. As the fellow in the video states the older models do not have the drain plug. The Crossfire will not have a drain plug on the 722.6 transmission. If you want to flush the converter read the first post in this thread. It tells you how to do it.
Dumb question 249: Once I dump the trans fluid from the drain pan and torque converter, where does one put the stuff back into the car? Pump in using the dip stick fill tube?
I'm guessing you will replace the filter in the pan? New filter, new pan bolts, new gasket put 4~5 liters in the pan then check the level via the tube, add as necessary to cold level then bring car up to operating temperature and check again via the tube with a dip stick. The 2005 CLK has no dip stick tube, level is reached by bringing car up to temp and then letting excess drain out the plug. I bit more detailed than that, but you get the picture.
I'm guessing you will replace the filter in the pan? New filter, new pan bolts, new gasket put 4~5 liters in the pan then check the level via the tube, add as necessary to cold level then bring car up to operating temperature and check again via the tube with a dip stick. The 2005 CLK has no dip stick tube, level is reached by bringing car up to temp and then letting excess drain out the plug. I bit more detailed than that, but you get the picture.
This is taking a while for all this material to absorb into my brain. The past two days, I got the fluid drained from dropping the transmission pan. It's only three liters and not the 5 expected. I tried replacing the electrical socket with the new one. Alas, it would not go in. I had to move the O-rings to the old one and it slid in nicely. The entire bottom of the car was very dirty from both trans leakage and motor oil. I suspect the valve covers will need a new gaskets. I had only ordered two gallons of ATF and after reviewing all the procedures, I realize I need three gallons to do a proper flush. So back to Rock Auto for the third gallon. Everything is back together and very clean. Now I will see about putting together the material for draining the trans fluid. I have a oil pump that I can use to push the new fluid into the fill tube. So that will help.
This is taking a while for all this material to absorb into my brain. The past two days, I got the fluid drained from dropping the transmission pan. It's only three liters and not the 5 expected. I tried replacing the electrical socket with the new one. Alas, it would not go in. I had to move the O-rings to the old one and it slid in nicely. The entire bottom of the car was very dirty from both trans leakage and motor oil. I suspect the valve covers will need a new gaskets. I had only ordered two gallons of ATF and after reviewing all the procedures, I realize I need three gallons to do a proper flush. So back to Rock Auto for the third gallon. Everything is back together and very clean. Now I will see about putting together the material for draining the trans fluid. I have a oil pump that I can use to push the new fluid into the fill tube. So that will help.
Do you have instructions as to filling the transmission? You need to bring it up to operating temperature. I do not know what that is off the top of my head, but it is on the forum some place. When you get it to the correct temp be sure you measure the fluid with the engine running and the car in park. I found there was a two liter difference with the car running and not running even when at the proper temperature 113F / 45C on the M113. You must buy a generic dip stick for the tube on the back of the engine for the trans fluid. You can find them on ebay.
You did the right thing in moving the O-rings back to your original socket. The new sockets will not work on our cars; Something was lost when Mercedes went to revised one size for numerous cars.
The instructions for the valve cover gaskets call for just cleaning the mating surface well and placing the new gaskets down on the bare metal. I put just a very small dab of Black ultra RTV in the grove of the valve cover on both ends where they make that semi circle dip and I use Permatex #2 ( non hardening) with a light coat on the gasket face where it will contact the head. Just on the lower half as it sets in oil all the time. I did that on my Limited back in 2011 and no leaks to this day. If the breathers are leaking on the top of the valve covers you need to be certain the small hole where the vacuum hose attaches is open. If that si closed with dirt you will have excess pressure in the crankcase and force more oil out the rear seal and you end up with another leak. You use the Black ultra RTV to make the gasket for the breathers. All this info is here on the forum; Just use the search box upper right corner with the goggle option or use the "Index of Crossfire problems and repairs" in the TBS and How to Section. That is a great reference source every Crossfire owner needs to be familiar with.
Do you have instructions as to filling the transmission? You must buy a generic dip stick for the tube on the back of the engine for the trans fluid.
I have instructions from this very thread! And, I did buy the dipstick from Amazon for this transmission.
You did the right thing in moving the O-rings back to your original socket.
Thanks! I pushed and pushed and pushed. Finally I said something is not right. Having read this thread a 5 times, I had remembered to reuse the O-rings and the old socket.
If the breathers are leaking on the top of the valve covers you need to be certain the small hole where the vacuum hose attaches is open. If that si closed with dirt you will have excess pressure in the crankcase and force more oil out the rear seal and you end up with another leak.
Really good to know. Once done with the tranny, going to check the valve covers and clean the engine.
"Index of Crossfire problems and repairs" in the TBS and How to Section.
I keep that thread open in one of my many browser tabs. It's good reading when I am waiting on stuff.
My current status. I got my extra 5 quarts of fluid. I did my flush last night. I used a hose attached to the transmission radiator output and ran that to a container. I had to use a brace and weight to keep the container from flipping because of the hose.
Hose attached to the transmission radiator output
NASTY!
I followed the dump 3 add 3 liters program as listed above. I used a oil pump to transfer the transmission fluid back into the transmission fill tube. I got new tubing to stay clean. Filling up
I ran out of light last night and I could not find my transmission dip stick. I had put it in the garage and the garage ate it. Today I will be getting the car to temperature and checking the fill level. thanks to all who contributed to this thread!
I had trouble getting my replacement bushing to go back into the electrical conductor plate. I found the issue and have a fix. Old left, bad replacement center, new from FPC on right
Looking at the three electrical connector bushings above, you will see that the slot marked with the red circle is not cleanly molded. Thee is a bit of residue that prevents it going into the electrical conductor plate. The fix is to file away the offending material and it will go back in. Since I have my valve body out, I was able to test this. I will be using the one on the right from FPC. It fits perfectly.
This is always a concern if you try to buy the least expensive replacement parts. I'm not saying that is what you did but a caution to consider when shopping.
This is always a concern if you try to buy the least expensive replacement parts. I'm not saying that is what you did buy a caution to consider when shopping.
I bought the part directly from Mercedes-Benz and it didn't fit!! (and I'm not the only one)
I really do it know, locking it in position means it will not fallout, I have no idea how tight it is.
Someone could put engine oil in it.
I am just stating what was previously posted, this is not the only mention of the clips reuse on the forum. As the old saying goes ‘Do not shoot the messenger’.
To bring this up to date (since people have added to this thread), FCPEuro actually sells a dipstick for the SLK that is specifically from Chrysler. I wonder how many parts/tools go that direction?
They also sell replacements for the little red locking pin for the cap to the tranny. I flushed the tranny fluid in my ML320 from the top a couple of times and it worked great. My XF (brand new to me) looks almost exactly like my ML320 under the air filter housing. It is next.
The locking pin does hold it on much more securely. The oil dipstick on my new XF was not holding tight so I replaced the o-ring. Suprising how hard and brittle that sucker had become. The original broke long before I could begin to stretch it to come off. The new one is a huge improvement and holds the dipstick snug again and properly sealed.
Re: Full Auto Transmission Fluid Replacement
