Part #3

The extension wires to the switches were spliced between the harness and the connectors. I used crimp connectors, I should have soldered these joints as well as one joint separated on assembly. The tow lift/car locked indicator was flickering and after much head-scratching I found I had cross-connected the wires to the switch, once corrected the alarm and tilt switch worked OK. All the other switches worked, the seat pad heater does not work on the driver side but the back heater works. I never use it anyway but one day in a fit of enthusiasm I might get around to fixing it.

Here is a photo of the test assembly of the console with the switch module in place. Painting of the parts will be done when it is warmer and the paint selected. Instead of the switch module being screwed from behind necessitating the console removal to get to the rear of the switches I am thinking of a way to have it held by a snap of some kind it actually does snap into place as it is except it tends to slide toward the rear and hit the storage cubby lid.
I think the switches are recessed deep enough to avoid pressing them accidentally. Others I have seen have them too close to the surface. I do not rest my elbow in that area anyway and the only switch I use is the door lock switch. I have the ash tray light out and it is a very small wedge type, see here for the bulb information. CLICK
The ash tray pulls out but lacks a stop when going back and the spring that pushed it out is gone. I have to fix that up decently some time.


Now to get the wiring modified and the backup camera leads in place. My thanks to UrbanE who helped me out considerably on the wiring of the unit.

The Scosche adapter #VW01B pinout









The wiring of the Nav unit through the Scosche adapter
The schematic shows the head unit using the Infinity amp via the RCA pre-outs in the nav unit by splicing RCA plug wires into the OEM amp.




For the reverse signal, I used a reversing light wire (+) in the trunk, the camera needs power so there was no extra wire required to do it this way. As I will be using the reversing camera feature the sensor wire has to be grounded otherwise the head unit assumes you are driving, this should be activated by the emergency/parking brake switch but just grounding it works fine. This is required so that you can adjust the guidelines you see on the screen when in reverse.

The Scosche adapter attached to the nav unit plug. The two insulated sockets at the top of the photo are power taps for a dashcam, they are connected to A4 and A7. The trigger for the rearview camera will be spliced to the A2 wire. The cable ties were removed from the harness as it was found that it made it too stiff to fit behind the radio easily.

Two photos of the installed radio and working except for the back up camera.


The airline to the trunk lock passes through the right-hand rubber conduit that connects the hatch to the body. I intend to replace the yellow airline that passes through this conduit and run the camera wires through the left-hand side conduit. These are a pain to take out of their holes in the body and hatch and they may be harder to get back into place. There is a trick to get them out. Gently pull the rubber away from the collar that fits in the hole in the body or hatch. Each plastic collar has four tabs on it, one on each side. The tab ends are slightly above the metal surface and are thus accessible to push. Push in the tab on one end and lift the collar partially out of the hole, then push in the tab on one side. This enables you to remove the collar from the hole. You can see the tabs in the collar in the photo.


I have threaded the camera wires through the left hand conduit, I used a .040 diameter soft iron wire as a snake. I pinched each wire in a loop in the wire and carefully pulled it through. I also did this to get the wires into the hatch through the hole. The camera wire connector was too big to pass through the conduit so I cut it off and soldered and insulated it with shrink wrap when the wire was through the hole and into the hatch. The camera wire comes from the head unit and plugs into a connector on a lead coming from the camera, also coming from the camera connector are two power wires, the ground wire will go to the grounding stud on the wheel arch and the power line teed to the wire coming from the head unit which goes to the reversing light.

The rearview camera mounted on the bottom of the hatch. It is held on with double-sided tape at the moment. I have to determine if screws would damage the lock mechanism, the grommet already has a clearance hole in the lock body plate. The camera you need has to be like the one shown with the cable exiting from the rear of the camera which then passes through a grommet to the interior of the trunk. My cable and grommet passes through the trunk latch body in an area where it does not cause a problem, the camera cannot sit where the grommet is because it is not a flat surface. This camera has a sealing 2.5mm diameter plug on it and goes through a smaller hole than those with RCA plugs on them. Even so I had to cut the wire coming from the head unit as it looked to be too much trouble to thread through the rubber conduit at the top of the hatch, I am told it is possible though.



I have replaced the yellow trunk lock airline with a blue polyurethane airline and it can be seen in the following photo. I can now button up the trunk panels, they all have to be out to get at the CLP/SSM pump properly, the pump lies on its side and sits on a 2" thick foam platform, the pump is wrapped in a block of foam and the whole thing jams under the side rail as seen in the photo. I thought of cutting the foam that covers the pump about 3" from the rear. This would allow easy access to the pump, this 3" is covered by the rear trunk panel and to remove it four other panels have to be removed. One roof panel came out with all the clips intact but the other one came out with just about all the clips busted, you have to pull the panel out at the correct angle or else. These are the clips and they work great. CLICK
Also seen in this photo are wires that go to the extra trunk light situated on the passenger side of the car, this matches the OEM one that is on the drivers side, both are now LED lights. They are the ones for the rear tag light but they fit the OEM hole for the light perfectly. Also you can see the power lines for the rear camera that go to the hatch.
Now to the trunk to install the camera.
In this photo you can see the yellow air lines that go to the drivers door lock, the teed hose that goes to the passenger door lock and the hatch lock, and the gas cap cover lock. The black wire is the camera wire and the red wire is for the reverse signal light, this will get its power from the reversing light on the passenger side of the car.









Apart from these small details, the ash tray fix, and the painting of the parts the job is finished.
I am not sure that I have made the switch layout that I prefer, I think that I will make a new bezel that has the switches below the double DIN radio like UrbanE did. How hard can it be. I will repaint both layouts at the same time.

 

I for one cannot believe you of all people crimped those wires instead of solder and heat shrink.
Are you getting lazy in your old age ?

 

The simple answer is ..... yes.
I have to take it apart when it is painted so I can do it then. If the switch module is held down by a latch then the wires do not need to be so long. One end of the splice is soldered and insulated with heat shrink. I did not want get in the car with a soldering iron, something always gets burnt, usually me.
I have the back up camera now so it should all be done in a day or so. I was so careful in the wiring to the harness and still managed to get one connector wired wrong. I think a magnetic latch might work to keep the switch module in place.

 

In that case, I forgive you and will continue to view you as the exalted guru of all things Crossfire.

 

I think your standards are a bit higher than that.

 

Interesting approach. Seeing your updates continues to be amazing!

 

Warmer in the garage today and that plus a little bit of enthusiasm enabled me to finish wiring up the unit except for the reverse camera. See post #61.

 

SWEET!! Very Nice Work!! Wouldn't have expected anything less.

 

looks really good.

 

Here is the hatch lock taken out of the car and on the bench, it is shown in the locked position. The vacuum/air line fitting snaps into the round white connector on the left of the latch.
I was reminded that magredvet did a post on how to open the hatch on a coupe using a screwdriver inserted through the driver side license plate light hole. It showed what to push but it did not have the locked and unlocked positions of the mechanism.


Here is the hatch lock with the mechanism in the locked position with a screwdriver pushing against the slide that has to be engaged with the latch handle in order to open the hatch.
Imagine that the red rectangle is the hole where the driver side license plate light goes with the screwdriver going through it.


Here is the slide pushed over to engage with the latch handle.

 

Nice detail - Thanks

 

Post #61 updated.
I have wondered if the sharp corners between the vertical wall and the curved surface where the switches are will be a problem when paint spraying.
Does anyone have an opinion on this? I know that ideally it should have a radius in the corner.

 

Not sure I completely understand your issue. Are you referencing the sharp edge along the top of console opening and the vertical wall down to the switch assembly? Was wondering if you would be able to raise the switch assembly enough to have it actually protrude a bit from the opening, or possibly be flush with the opening's top edge (e.g., window switches). Then painting the console opening & sharp edge would not be as significant an issue. But if you couldn't do this, then my experience with painting the vertical edge is it has to be done using application of light coats of spray paint to both avoid any runs and get good adhesion. 3-4 coats should suffice; possibly with a surface adhesion coat for plastic material. And another possibility is to spray the vertical wall with a black paint (gloss or flat; your choice) to add some focus to the relocated switch assembly. Just requires more masking.

 

This is a drawing of a section through the new switch panel, it shows the sharp corner between the vertical sides and the curved panel that holds the switches.

I kept the switches low to reduce the possibility of hitting the switches with an elbow, I do not rest my arm there but things can happen. Others who have done a similar job with the switches did as you say and the switches are too close to the top, maybe even level with the top. The top edge you refer to has the .04" radius that is continued along the extended slot, it is the radius on the coup holder cutout.
I could add a radius all around the inside at the sharp corner but it would be a pain to do. I think light coats softly blown along the corner would be OK, more or less letting the paint drop into the corner rather than blasting it.

 

I had to cut the wire that goes to the head unit from the reversing camera as the connector would not go through the rubber conduit between the hatch and the car body. I then soldered the cut wires together and insulated them. Now I get no rear view camera image and the wire near the soldered joints is getting warm.
Please if you have any ideas let me have them. Have I committed a technical error in cutting the wires or ..............?
The camera does not appear to be working at all, the lights on the camera that should come on do not.
Thanks for your time.

 

 

Oops!
Thanks for the reply, as I say I am pretty ignorant about these matters, but I cannot see what is really wrong.
I wondered if I somehow had mixed up the positive and negative wires when tapping into the reverse light to camera and head. One can only hope my Sony camera is not toast. I have not mounted the camera yet so that is a small plus.
Update
I have just checked the wiring and found that I have crossed the + and - wires, I will correct that and then see what is what, fingers crossed.
Update
SHOW TIME. Reversing the wires did the trick we now have video.
Now to mount the camera.

 

Post #61 has been updated.
Basically the job is near completion except for the painting of the parts.

 

Great detailed write up. Thanks

 

Great write up. I had my latch hose line split at the rubber boot. I cut the split section out and put in a short piece of rubber vacuum hose. So far no problems. Lots easier than replacing the whole line.