Stock bulbs are incandescent and are more in the 3000K range, 4300K is what most OEMs use in HID in lexus, bimmer, benz, etc. A 5000K is a pure white light and is arguably one of the brightest and cleanest looking colors out there.

As far as heat, the HID create MUCH less heat than a conventional bulb because they are so much more efficient. No worries on heat issues.

Hope this helps.

 

Just to clear up a common misconception here, the 6300K/4300K/(X)K number refers to color temperature, which is the temperature an ideal black-body radiator would need to be to glow that color. It'll tell you how hot the filament in an average tungsten bulb will get (since tungsten generates light via heat and in most bulbs it is nearly an ideal blackbody radiator), but it won't tell you much about an HID's physical temperature, just its color. (HIDs operate via an arc, which isn't a blackbody radiator at all).

A good measure of how much heat a bulb will put out is its wattage draw from your electrical system, since this tells you how much total energy the bulb has to convert to light or heat, and all bulbs generate mostly heat. As HIDs are more efficient (put out more light vs. heat for wattage put in), they generally draw less power than stock filament bulbs and thus put out less heat.

So in short, don't worry about the heat from HIDs, especially when choosing a color.

 

Thanks for this list!

 

Has anyone tried www.superlumination.com Tail Light Brake Light Turn Signal LED Bulbs they've got bulbs with built in resistors also

 

For the plate lights. I found these: 6418 Error Free LED Bulbs | Audi A4 S4 RS4 License Plate Lights

They are 25.99 but have built in canbus controllers. Same design as the ones from the first post. I ordered and will post when I install them.

 

I ordered these:
2 x WHITE 3-LED LICENSE # LIGHT BULBS FESTOON SMD 36mm on eBay.ca (item 270724267479 end time 21-Apr-11 14:05:00 EDT)

For about $8 shipping included. Will report back if they throw error code.

 

Every light from the website posted earlier works perfectly with no light out indicator. Replaced eylids, plate lights, and interior. Will post pics when that damn sun goes down haha

 

I have been reading A LOT of posts about the LED's. There are lights with built in resistors!! They are a little more expensive than the ones without, but for they time and effort spent on wiring in a resistor its well worth the extra dollar or so. You are looking for SMD LEDs with built in CANBUS controllers. These DO NOT give an error code and DO NOT make the lights any bigger. I have 10 SMD LED lights in my map and they were just as wide and long as the OEM. 8 LED for the eyelids and 6418's for the plates. Google has been around for a while now, start using it.

 

This is a very good thread. I would suggest that you go to LED Lights | Led Lighting | and LED Wholesale for a very good LED lights.

 

double post

 

I hate cross-posting but I think this is useful - my solution to my license plate LEDs going out all the time:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post631127

 

Thank you for this thread. I have found all information that i need here. Thanks o.p and others who replied this thread

 

Has anyone successfully found a LED bulb that will replace the stock high beam bulbs? I am looking to match mine more closely to my HIDs. Thanks.

 

Since it doesn't seem that anyone has given this a try, I will be the guinea pig. I'm going to order two of these for the high beams:

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I do need help, however, with the resistor. Which one on the webpage that is circulating should I buy? Also, I will need to know how to wire them into the bulb and the existing lamp connector. Thanks!

 

https://sites.google.com/site/1810ma...lbs-and-lights

This might be usefull

 

Don't intend to burst your bulb / bubble, but need to point out that a 'bulb' made up of 18 Surface Mounted Device (SMD) LEDs just cannot provide anything close to satisfactory performance in our headlamps.

The design of the reflector and lens, etc. for H7 or similar bulbs starts with light coming from a really small, precisely positioned, very bright light source. For the Crossfire lamps this is all set up for the halogen type incandescent bulb. These may be closely approximated by the small area of the High Intensity Discharge (HID) arc.

Putting all those SMD LED sources around the general area of where the original incandescent filament is supposed to be could NOT give you the intended light pattern, even if the total intensity might add up to be equivalent (which is unlikely).

So may be worth the pretty low price to see what you get, but it cannot be anything like what you want and need from high beams for driving on a dark road at night. And perhaps something like this might be OK for 'fog' lamps used only for 'looks,' and never depended upon to see where the road is so you can stay on it in actual fog.

I have wondered a similar / related question, in case anyone can share their experience here: if I replace both LO and HI beam bulbs with HIDs, what sort of issues happen when switching between the two while driving? Since the HID needs a few seconds to come to full brightness, does this setup just not work in practice? I see some folks keep their halogen HI beam lamps in place when going to HID for the LO beams. Is this a good way for the Crossfire?

Thanks!

 

Thanks SRT6 in MI for the advice. That is disappointing, because those would perfectly match the HIDs perfectly. To halfway answer your question, there are several members on the forum who have HIDs for both the high and low beams. Most newer cars use a bi-xenon setup which uses just one bulb and a mechanical part to adjust it for high and low beam. This is why newer vehicles do so well with high beams.

If you predominantly use your high beams just to flash at oncoming vehicles, etc., HIDs will not do well. If you are like me and often drive on dark back roads, keeping your highs on pretty often, they should not be a problem. This is probably the route I will go since the LEDs will likely be a bust. Yes, they do take a few seconds to warm up, but they stay warm for a while, so even if you were to have them on for a period of time and then need to turn them off (when hitting a main road) and flash occasionally, they should still be warm and cause no problems.

Hope this helps!

 

Just installed HIDs in my high beams as well, went for a test drive, and I am happy with them. No, the brightness is not instant, but after they warm up (which takes 10 secs max), they are good to go. Even when using them intermittently, after the initial warm-up, they are at full brightness even for flashes. I don't foresee any problems but will keep the forum posted of my experience with the HID high beams.

Also, my next project is to replace the "eyelid" bulbs with LEDs. The resistor, however, intimidates me. Would anyone please be willing to explain how to wire one in detail. I, along wither many other timid forum members, would find great use of it. Thanks in advance!

 

Just recently replaced my license plate lights with LEDs. I am, however, having problems out of one. It keeps going out. I know it's not the bulb, because if I remove it and place it back in, it lights, but I believe there may be something wrong with how it is seated. Any tips from those who have done this same replacement?

 

Ok - I have a "light out" icon on my dash illuminated. The guy who changed my oil said it was the centre brake light. I looked up the list of replacement lamps and it says"part of the car, don't break it". What the heck does that mean? I have not had anyone check for me - but would this cause the warning to illuminate?