Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
time lord , i really wish i had considered uv lights in my cars eyebrows . thats a genius idea! must look soooo good, i can look into it cost wise, what colors did you have in mind? there would need to be a bit of quantity behind the color purchase as well to make the price feasible , (not just making a plug for me ) the resistor is always a fun thing to deal with and in reality your car has a regulator built into the alternator so you shouldn't need a another regulator, update on the lights i recently installed , i did not use can bus lights as i hate them to a very decent extent. i used standard led lights but a higher power one with my favorite type of led, they work great , only flaw i could see is i slight flicker under acceleration while rolling the windows down. my guess is the alternator is supplying more power and then the window regulator sends power to the system , causing a momentary light flicker, i dont mind it , these are much brighter then canbus so im keeping them , the car looks UBER good right now !
time lord , i really wish i had considered uv lights in my cars eyebrows . thats a genius idea! must look soooo good, i can look into it cost wise, what colors did you have in mind? there would need to be a bit of quantity behind the color purchase as well to make the price feasible , (not just making a plug for me ) the resistor is always a fun thing to deal with and in reality your car has a regulator built into the alternator so you shouldn't need a another regulator, update on the lights i recently installed , i did not use can bus lights as i hate them to a very decent extent. i used standard led lights but a higher power one with my favorite type of led, they work great , only flaw i could see is i slight flicker under acceleration while rolling the windows down. my guess is the alternator is supplying more power and then the window regulator sends power to the system , causing a momentary light flicker, i dont mind it , these are much brighter then canbus so im keeping them , the car looks UBER good right now !
Not sure of the quantities of colors that would sell. I know there are those people out there like me that go to great lengths to change their dash and interior lighting and look for the proper colors in consistent frequency range. i.e. - I had originally lit my foot area with a few cold cathode tubes to imitate courtesy lights, but wanted purple. What I got was actually a pinkish color with a hint of blue, not the grape purple I am used to seeing with UV bulbs. So obviously these were given the old heave-ho!
Some folks like the blue, some the green, others the yellow or amber. And, yes, there are those of us nuts that like the purple (UV) and red. A more pure and soft white is a good alternative for those wishing to retain the stock look and have cooler burning bulbs that will not cause plastic housings to become burnt or brittle over time. This being one of my main reasons for my goal of getting rid of ALL incandescent bulbs in the interior. I've seen it too often, a slightly older car (10+ years) and the dome light plastic or other light lens has become yellow and brittle because of a hot bulb behind it for all that time.
Next on my list is the amber and red idiot (warning) lights on either side of the gauge cluster. This may allow me to have BOTH of the low fuel warning lights to work. I spliced in the original circuit that is in the fuel gauge, but had to remove the other incandescent bulb from the stock low fuel warning to get it to work. Too much load on the digital switching integrated circuit on the cluster board. With LED bulbs, it SHOULD be able to run two LED bulbs without issue.
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sounds good , as far as canbus vs. standard LED , for any bright canbus led you can find , i can show you a much brighter and cheaper standard LED which is why im personally so loyal to them , i can look into UV light for LED , you would be the first asking for them in my years working with it , odd right? i would love to see the final product of your car lighting time lord!
sounds good , as far as canbus vs. standard LED , for any bright canbus led you can find , i can show you a much brighter and cheaper standard LED which is why im personally so loyal to them , i can look into UV light for LED , you would be the first asking for them in my years working with it , odd right? i would love to see the final product of your car lighting time lord!
And recoloring the switches... Linky
I had couple of people say the SYLVANIA SILVERSTAR ULTRA H7 is the closet to hid you can get and if you want really bright try the ilverstar ZXE H7 SZ/2 . I have the Silverstar on my NA both high and low and love them. I tried the ZXE but they were just to bright for me. hope this help
sive81364
sive81364
i have the silver-stars in my car currently and honestly they bore me, not quite enough light for me , i am still waiting to re install my hid lights again!
I see that this old thread is still going on. I would never use or recommend a 12-25 ohm resistor as that would use too much power which is all heat, I chose 100 ohmsyou can do what you like but for me these worked well and I did a bunch of tests on them.
The Hid light is blinking on and off at a high rate, so the comment about them in the high beam light is not correct , they do not need any cool time. I have them in the high and low position and they do take a second to come on but that is fine as the low beams are so good that I almost never use the high beams but when I do, wow they are really terrific. Id not choose to go back to the yellow lamps.
Bottom line is if your thinking about led lights, I d suggest you wait a bit as they are evolving at a terrific rate, doubling the value / benefits about every year; now that they are on the highway in new cars.
I just got a 1500 lumen flashlight, its beam projects heat on to your skin, wow.
W
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The Hid light is blinking on and off at a high rate, so the comment about them in the high beam light is not correct , they do not need any cool time. I have them in the high and low position and they do take a second to come on but that is fine as the low beams are so good that I almost never use the high beams but when I do, wow they are really terrific. Id not choose to go back to the yellow lamps.
Bottom line is if your thinking about led lights, I d suggest you wait a bit as they are evolving at a terrific rate, doubling the value / benefits about every year; now that they are on the highway in new cars.
I just got a 1500 lumen flashlight, its beam projects heat on to your skin, wow.
W

update , i got my HIDS back in , in 4300k , they look great and light up the road nicely , the car didnt really like the 6k lights, but these are far better than my silverstars. leds i chose still working like champs!
i wouldnt use 100w as they would destroy oncoming drivers eyes, and most likely your head lights. and i haven't , any info on them? i am in the process of acquiring led head lights
Great posts on headlight issues guys! Very helpful!
Except my dumb *** dropped the headlight low beam bulb clip INTO the headlight housing!
What should I do? Could not get out the clip even with a magnet!
Is my next option to take out entire headlight housing???
Except my dumb *** dropped the headlight low beam bulb clip INTO the headlight housing!
What should I do? Could not get out the clip even with a magnet!
Is my next option to take out entire headlight housing???
Worked like a charm Raz! Thanks!!!
Map lights = Dome lights, that has been established.
Yes, I know I should have taken apart everything and done more research before I bought, but a sticky is a sticky for a reason, and everyone in this thread seemed to be praising the accuracy of the sticky.
Just saying - might want to be updated, cause my dome/map lights sure arent taking 6418 festoon 36mm LEDs anytime soon!
Yes, I know I should have taken apart everything and done more research before I bought, but a sticky is a sticky for a reason, and everyone in this thread seemed to be praising the accuracy of the sticky.
Just saying - might want to be updated, cause my dome/map lights sure arent taking 6418 festoon 36mm LEDs anytime soon!
How do I get the dome light bulb shields off. They seem to be a simple clip, but when I disengage the clip mechanism, the cover doesn't slide out. I don't want to pull to hard and break them. Ideas?
and the glove box light lid??
and the glove box light lid??
Don't take them off, remove the 2 Phillips screws in the dome light assembly and drop it down, the bulb sockets twist in from the back side.
As to the glove light, I'm told it just pops off.
Never popp'd it myself.
As to the glove light, I'm told it just pops off.
Never popp'd it myself.


