Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
The bulb I used has a heat sink on the back, with six or eight LEDs on it, I cannot see as all the front is yellow. My particular bulb is bright, maybe too bright. SHOWTIME !
I might need sunglasses to look into the glove box at night.
Remember the ignition must be on and the LED bulb correctly placed in the bulb holder, positive of the bulb to positive of the bulb holder for the bulb to light.
The glove box light is all in one, switch, lens and bulb holder and it pops off as shown below.
This is the last LED to replace the OEM candles in my car, I will be adding LEDs in the foot wells later.
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
I put these 7.5w t10 leds in today they are the brightest T10 ive tried.
2 x T10 CREE 7.5W LED W5W 12V WHITE Parker Wedge Side Light Bulbs Car Globes | eBay
They make the silver reflector shine like a strip of leds ,
a bit fiddly to put in because they are longer .
2 x T10 CREE 7.5W LED W5W 12V WHITE Parker Wedge Side Light Bulbs Car Globes | eBay
They make the silver reflector shine like a strip of leds ,
a bit fiddly to put in because they are longer .
Last edited by daveesrt6; 04-28-2017 at 02:28 AM.
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
[QUOTE=daveesrt6;886253]I put these 7.5w t10 leds in today they are the brightest T10 ive tried.
2 x T10 CREE 7.5W LED W5W 12V WHITE Parker Wedge Side Light Bulbs Car Globes | eBay
They make the silver reflector shine like a strip of leds ,
a bit fiddly to put in because they are longer .
Ok one of these super bright 7.5w T10 marker lights i got has Quit
only lasted 6 months .
I took them both out ,and we know how much fun that can be, then i find the one that was worked was just about in 2 pieces.
Luckily it did not drop inside .
I have replaced them both with single led T10s now.
So ...dont buy those in the link !
2 x T10 CREE 7.5W LED W5W 12V WHITE Parker Wedge Side Light Bulbs Car Globes | eBay
They make the silver reflector shine like a strip of leds ,
a bit fiddly to put in because they are longer .
Ok one of these super bright 7.5w T10 marker lights i got has Quit
only lasted 6 months .
I took them both out ,and we know how much fun that can be, then i find the one that was worked was just about in 2 pieces.
Luckily it did not drop inside .
I have replaced them both with single led T10s now.
So ...dont buy those in the link !
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Better late than never.
My bulb says on it ;
OS n3U,
12/1.2
This is 12 volt, 1.2 watt.
It is the same size as bulb #286, a wedge bulb, mini base.
The LED bulb appears to be a #T5-286
My bulb says on it ;
OS n3U,
12/1.2
This is 12 volt, 1.2 watt.
It is the same size as bulb #286, a wedge bulb, mini base.
The LED bulb appears to be a #T5-286
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
There's a lot of good info here, but most of the links in this thread are expired, and there's probably newer (and better) choices now.
So, for my new-to-me 2004 Crossfire, I'd like to swap out my old halogen bulbs for brighter, whiter bulbs without having to use a voltage regulator or any other mods.
Simply put... I'm looking for white "plug-n-play bulbs" to brighten things up on all the headlight and fog light bulbs.
I want to do this without the need for any mods, taping, resealing, Jerry rigging, etc.
Plug-n-play is all I need. Oh, and the cheaper the better. Amazon or Ebay items are preferred for convenience.
I'm presently looking at these for low beams. ---> Thanks in advance!
So, for my new-to-me 2004 Crossfire, I'd like to swap out my old halogen bulbs for brighter, whiter bulbs without having to use a voltage regulator or any other mods.
Simply put... I'm looking for white "plug-n-play bulbs" to brighten things up on all the headlight and fog light bulbs.
I want to do this without the need for any mods, taping, resealing, Jerry rigging, etc.
Plug-n-play is all I need. Oh, and the cheaper the better. Amazon or Ebay items are preferred for convenience.
I'm presently looking at these for low beams. ---> Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Buck62; 11-26-2021 at 05:27 PM.
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
There's a lot of good info here, but most of the links in this thread are expired, and there's probably newer (and better) choices now.
So, for my new-to-me 2004 Crossfire, I'd like to swap out my old halogen bulbs for brighter, whiter bulbs without having to use a voltage regulator or any other mods.
Simply put... I'm looking for white "plug-n-play bulbs" to brighten things up on all the headlight and fog light bulbs.
I want to do this without the need for any mods, taping, resealing, Jerry rigging, etc.
Plug-n-play is all I need. Oh, and the cheaper the better. Amazon or Ebay items are preferred for convenience.
I'm presently looking at these for low beams. ---> https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Auk...sler+Crossfire
Thanks in advance!
So, for my new-to-me 2004 Crossfire, I'd like to swap out my old halogen bulbs for brighter, whiter bulbs without having to use a voltage regulator or any other mods.
Simply put... I'm looking for white "plug-n-play bulbs" to brighten things up on all the headlight and fog light bulbs.
I want to do this without the need for any mods, taping, resealing, Jerry rigging, etc.
Plug-n-play is all I need. Oh, and the cheaper the better. Amazon or Ebay items are preferred for convenience.
I'm presently looking at these for low beams. ---> https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Auk...sler+Crossfire
Thanks in advance!
I use SliverStar Ultra's, very bright and both sets, less expensive than the one set of 'chip' bulbs you referenced. Since you didn't say what type you wanted, I thought you might consider these ( Set 1,Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA H7 Pair Set High Performance Headlight 2 Bulbs NEW | eBay & set 2, Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA H7 Pair Set High Performance Headlight 2 Bulbs NEW | eBay ). If you search for Silverstar Ultra H7 in ebay, there are a couple of twin or three packs as well (if buying from two sources for less $ isn't your thing). Good luck!
.
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
I use SliverStar Ultra's, very bright and both sets, less expensive than the one set of 'chip' bulbs you referenced. Since you didn't say what type you wanted, I thought you might consider these ( Set 1,Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA H7 Pair Set High Performance Headlight 2 Bulbs NEW | eBay & set 2, Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA H7 Pair Set High Performance Headlight 2 Bulbs NEW | eBay ). If you search for Silverstar Ultra H7 in ebay, there are a couple of twin or three packs as well (if buying from two sources for less $ isn't your thing). Good luck!
.
.
I did some looking around and the video below perfectly demonstrates the difference between OEM and the Silverstar Ultra bulbs for the headlights.
What about the high-beam and fog lights? Same bulbs?
And what do people use for those little upper corner lights?
Sorry to be such a PITA... but the Crossfire is totally new to me.
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
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Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Thanks a bunch!
I did some looking around and the video below perfectly demonstrates the difference between OEM and the Silverstar Ultra bulbs for the headlights.
What about the high-beam and fog lights? Same bulbs?
And what do people use for those little upper corner lights?
Sorry to be such a PITA... but the Crossfire is totally new to me.
I did some looking around and the video below perfectly demonstrates the difference between OEM and the Silverstar Ultra bulbs for the headlights.
What about the high-beam and fog lights? Same bulbs?
And what do people use for those little upper corner lights?
Sorry to be such a PITA... but the Crossfire is totally new to me.
OK, the low and high beams are H7 SilverStars, the fogs are 9005's (the 9005's will fit I've been runnning them since Jan 2013). The corner top outer 'marker' lamps in the headlight assembly (Ebay as a T10 / 194 / 168 / W5W LED bulbs with canbus error free pack of 10). The 10 were scattered throughout the car for dome lamps and the other marker lamps in the fenders. I also note the dome light LED's dim slowly like the OEM's (from where I got them from on Ebay). Good luck!
.
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Here's what I just ordered...
Low and high beam: (2 sets) Fog lights: Upper corner lights:
I'm thinking the white upper corner bulbs will also be okay for the side marker bulbs, too.
Ordering specific yellow and red ones will get more costly.
Low and high beam: (2 sets) Fog lights: Upper corner lights:
I'm thinking the white upper corner bulbs will also be okay for the side marker bulbs, too.
Ordering specific yellow and red ones will get more costly.
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Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Here's what I just ordered...
Low and high beam: (2 sets) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fog lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Upper corner lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
I'm thinking the white upper corner bulbs will also be okay for the side marker bulbs, too.
Ordering specific yellow and red ones will get more costly.
Low and high beam: (2 sets) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fog lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Upper corner lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
I'm thinking the white upper corner bulbs will also be okay for the side marker bulbs, too.
Ordering specific yellow and red ones will get more costly.
While they are not SilverStars (Sylvania's), Your milage may vary with their durability/life. BTW, I did mention 9005's for the fogs, didn't I? I think the 'cams' on the 9006's might not line up right but don't remember for sure positive. Good luck with them anyway! BTW, you do know how tough it is to get to the corner markers in the headlights, right? There is a hack that'll make it easier (using an open end/box end wrench to grab them and turn. Also, use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket to turn them back in when done switching them). ENJOY!
.
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Yeah, I thought the Philips would be as good.
But, upon further review (of all the reviews) I cancelled them and ordered the SilverStars for the headlights and fog lights on Ebay.
Better safe than sorry... and I see that getting the bulbs in straight can take some time and patience.
But, upon further review (of all the reviews) I cancelled them and ordered the SilverStars for the headlights and fog lights on Ebay.
Better safe than sorry... and I see that getting the bulbs in straight can take some time and patience.
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Re: UPDATED: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
Expanded list of lamp sizes (HID, Halogen, and LED), all in one location.
PLEASE STICKY THIS!
Headlamp: Low Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: H7 High Intensity Discharge (HID).
Notes: 4,300K is the average color temperature on cars equipped with HID out of the factory. 4,300K is also the most often suggested HID color temperature for the Crossfire on this forum. 4000K is yellow-white, 6,000K is white-blue, 8,000K is green-blue, 10,000K is blue, 12,000K is purple. Another thing to consider: white LEDs generally give off a color temperature of about 6,000K. If you install the eyelid lamps I suggest below then your car will look best with 6,000K HID lamps to match.
Headlamp: High Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: Do not use an HID lamp in this position! HID lamps take considerable time to get to full bright; you want your high-beams to come on at full intensity instantly. Also, HIDs should NEVER be turned off and on without giving them a five minute cool down period.
Headlamp: Fog (Quantity 2)
Standard: 9006
Alternate: HID: 9006
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: See "Headlamp: Low Beam" notes.
Parking: Front ("Eyelids") (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 158, 168 White
Notes: After testing a few options the brightest LED model I found was a white, 9 LED surface mounted 194 lamp. The color temperature also closely matched my 6,000K HID headlamps. This is the most difficult to change lamp in the entire car: you will need needlenose pliers to turn the gray socket-****. Just know that it can be changed without removing the entire headlight assembly or any other equipment. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Front Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Amber
Notes: I suggest a 5-LED 194 lamp with four side-firing LEDs, and one top mounted for this position. Angle the lamp when installing it to fit it in the fixture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Rear Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Red
Notes: see Front Sidemarker notes.
Turn Signal: Front and Rear (Quantity 4)
Standard: 7507A
Alternate: LED: 7507 Amber
Notes: The brightest LED I have found is a 57-LED Amber 7507 sold by eBay user "cal-motor". The lamp is the largest diameter that will fit in the fixture (26mm wide). It is comparable to the standard turn signal in intensity. When installing these you'll want to put a small amount of the least-stick glue you can find in the socket with the lamp. You'll need to push the lamp into the socket, and remember that it fits (though just barely). The glue is to keep the lamp attached to the socket whenever you try to remove it from the light fixture housing (both front or back turn signals). The most annoying thing in the world is trying to retrieve the lamp from the fixture using needlose plyers if it falls out of the socket. Just keep in mind that you want the glue to be cheap stuff so that you can replace the lamp if it ever fails. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow and lamp will flash fast).
Tail Brake (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7528
Alternate: LED: 7528, 1157 Red
Notes: Again, I'm going to suggest the ebay user "cal-motor"'s 57-LED 1157 for this position. It matches the amber turn signal in output, pattern, and size, and similarly is the largest lamp that can fit in the fixture. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Third Brake
Part of the car. Don't break it.
Back-Up (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7506
Alternate: LED: 7506, 1156, 1141, 382 White
Notes: I went with the 57-LED 1156 from ebay user "cal-motor" as it was the largest LED lamp I could fit in the fixture. It also matches my tail lamps and turnsignals in looks both illuminated and off. You do sacrifice a small amount of light when switching to a LED for this purpose; but who knew backing your car up could grab so much attention? You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
License Plate (Quantity 2 *See Order Notes)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: This lamp is 36mm in length. I suggest a festoon 2-LED lamp that is built in a rectangular metal casing about the same size as the factory lamp. It is difficult or impossible to fit a square configuration LED in this spot. Also, many of the six-LED variations (shown below as an attachment with a NO sign on it) are not sealed and fail quickly because of rust from moisture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Glove Box, Cargo Area, Map (Quantity 4)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: See License Plates Order Notes. Inside does not need resisitor.
PLEASE STICKY THIS!
2008.08.10 Update: 1) Created a workaround for the issues with LED lamps flickering and failing, which is an acute issue especially in the license plate fixture. See license plate lamp section for the workaround. (This probably also solves the issue of LEDs flickering and failing in the interior fixtures of the vehicle as well (like the glovebox), though I haven't tested it yet).2) Issues with resistors and "lamp out" indicator persist, see bottom of post. 3) Now testing white LED replacements for high beam and fog lamps. Will post results soon! |
Headlamp: Low Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: H7 High Intensity Discharge (HID).
Notes: 4,300K is the average color temperature on cars equipped with HID out of the factory. 4,300K is also the most often suggested HID color temperature for the Crossfire on this forum. 4000K is yellow-white, 6,000K is white-blue, 8,000K is green-blue, 10,000K is blue, 12,000K is purple. Another thing to consider: white LEDs generally give off a color temperature of about 6,000K. If you install the eyelid lamps I suggest below then your car will look best with 6,000K HID lamps to match.
Headlamp: High Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: Do not use an HID lamp in this position! HID lamps take considerable time to get to full bright; you want your high-beams to come on at full intensity instantly. Also, HIDs should NEVER be turned off and on without giving them a five minute cool down period.
Headlamp: Fog (Quantity 2)
Standard: 9006
Alternate: HID: 9006
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: See "Headlamp: Low Beam" notes.
Parking: Front ("Eyelids") (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 158, 168 White
Notes: After testing a few options the brightest LED model I found was a white, 9 LED surface mounted 194 lamp. The color temperature also closely matched my 6,000K HID headlamps. This is the most difficult to change lamp in the entire car: you will need needlenose pliers to turn the gray socket-****. Just know that it can be changed without removing the entire headlight assembly or any other equipment. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Front Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Amber
Notes: I suggest a 5-LED 194 lamp with four side-firing LEDs, and one top mounted for this position. Angle the lamp when installing it to fit it in the fixture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Rear Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Red
Notes: see Front Sidemarker notes.
Turn Signal: Front and Rear (Quantity 4)
Standard: 7507A
Alternate: LED: 7507 Amber
Notes: The brightest LED I have found is a 57-LED Amber 7507 sold by eBay user "cal-motor". The lamp is the largest diameter that will fit in the fixture (26mm wide). It is comparable to the standard turn signal in intensity. When installing these you'll want to put a small amount of the least-stick glue you can find in the socket with the lamp. You'll need to push the lamp into the socket, and remember that it fits (though just barely). The glue is to keep the lamp attached to the socket whenever you try to remove it from the light fixture housing (both front or back turn signals). The most annoying thing in the world is trying to retrieve the lamp from the fixture using needlose plyers if it falls out of the socket. Just keep in mind that you want the glue to be cheap stuff so that you can replace the lamp if it ever fails. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow and lamp will flash fast).
Tail Brake (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7528
Alternate: LED: 7528, 1157 Red
Notes: Again, I'm going to suggest the ebay user "cal-motor"'s 57-LED 1157 for this position. It matches the amber turn signal in output, pattern, and size, and similarly is the largest lamp that can fit in the fixture. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Third Brake
Part of the car. Don't break it.
Back-Up (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7506
Alternate: LED: 7506, 1156, 1141, 382 White
Notes: I went with the 57-LED 1156 from ebay user "cal-motor" as it was the largest LED lamp I could fit in the fixture. It also matches my tail lamps and turnsignals in looks both illuminated and off. You do sacrifice a small amount of light when switching to a LED for this purpose; but who knew backing your car up could grab so much attention? You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
License Plate (Quantity 2 *See Order Notes)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: This lamp is 36mm in length. I suggest a festoon 2-LED lamp that is built in a rectangular metal casing about the same size as the factory lamp. It is difficult or impossible to fit a square configuration LED in this spot. Also, many of the six-LED variations (shown below as an attachment with a NO sign on it) are not sealed and fail quickly because of rust from moisture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
UPDATE: These smaller LED lamps flicker and die for two reasons: 1. the most common model (shown below as a white cylindar with six LEDs and silver conections on either side) is not sealed and the connections on the inside rust and short. 2. The Crossfire was never meant to use LED lighting; the wiring produces overvoltages that while safe for standard lamps are disasterous for small LEDs. Here are the workarounds: 1. Get the type of LED light now shown below with two LED lamps on an all metal fixture. The only thing you'll need to do to seal it place a piece of clear packaging tape firmly over the two LEDs. Hover over the thumbnails below to see which 6418 LED is wrong, and which is right. 2. Buy this voltage regulator and install it in between the lamp and the battery (or if you're using load resistors, in between those and the lamp): http://theledlight.com/rg12regulator.html |
Glove Box, Cargo Area, Map (Quantity 4)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: See License Plates Order Notes. Inside does not need resisitor.
UPDATE: I still haven't gotten all of the resistors to work - my "lamp out" indicator is still illuminating. I'm not particular enough to go to the extreme length required to install all of the load resistors, and have instead installed a tiny piece of black electrical tape on my dashboard to cover the "lamp out" indicator. |
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Buck62 (12-26-2021)
Re: Standard, LED, and HID Lamp Solutions and Numbers
My R/H turn signal was flashing quickly, with an apparently inop R/H forward bulb.
Opened the hood and popped out the bulb, then put it right back in. I suspect dirt had built up on the contacts, as the turn signal started working again, and that was the end of the problem, with no new bulb replacement needed.
Now I have to go after the 3rd brake light. I was headed home at about midnight last night, and got pulled over by the police because "Your 3rd brake light is not working". I assume he was just fishing for drunk drivers or people driving high. That was all he had, so I was soon on my way, but I got issued a "Fix-It Ticket" which requires I send evidence to the traffic court that the issue has been resolved, before the 20th of June.
So NOW I am faced with removing my brake light assembly from the rear hatch, and sending it out for repair ($140 - WHAT IDIOT DESIGNED THIS WHEN IT SHOULD HAVE HAD A $1 BULB TO CHANGE IN 30 SECONDS?!?!??!?!) and then hoping I have it back in time to resolve the ticket. Annoyed because it will cost me so much to get the repair done, and it could fail again at any time. I am thinking about seeing what OTHER light assembly I can put in there, thus ignoring the original top brake light assembly, and just having a red light in that position that will go on with the other brake lights. Anyone ever installed a different brake light on top of the original ACME installation?
(ACME being the disastrous brand that the Coyote always used when pursuing the Roadrunner, and this apparently was designed by the same people)
Opened the hood and popped out the bulb, then put it right back in. I suspect dirt had built up on the contacts, as the turn signal started working again, and that was the end of the problem, with no new bulb replacement needed.
Now I have to go after the 3rd brake light. I was headed home at about midnight last night, and got pulled over by the police because "Your 3rd brake light is not working". I assume he was just fishing for drunk drivers or people driving high. That was all he had, so I was soon on my way, but I got issued a "Fix-It Ticket" which requires I send evidence to the traffic court that the issue has been resolved, before the 20th of June.
So NOW I am faced with removing my brake light assembly from the rear hatch, and sending it out for repair ($140 - WHAT IDIOT DESIGNED THIS WHEN IT SHOULD HAVE HAD A $1 BULB TO CHANGE IN 30 SECONDS?!?!??!?!) and then hoping I have it back in time to resolve the ticket. Annoyed because it will cost me so much to get the repair done, and it could fail again at any time. I am thinking about seeing what OTHER light assembly I can put in there, thus ignoring the original top brake light assembly, and just having a red light in that position that will go on with the other brake lights. Anyone ever installed a different brake light on top of the original ACME installation?
(ACME being the disastrous brand that the Coyote always used when pursuing the Roadrunner, and this apparently was designed by the same people)