I know this will have been brought up many times as its a common fault. the tops of the lenses are now well hazed over. I am so worried about using rubbing compound for fear of making it worse. Please can anyone tell me what is recommended or better still soemone in the S.West who would carry out the (car valeter?)
Thanks

 

Well ive got the same provlem on my srt, its so annoying! When you look really closely the hazing is made up of thousands of tiny surface cracks so i bought some headlamp haze remover. Gave it a try and it did make a little difference after 3 attempts but i think im going to go for one where you sand the top lay slightly then buff and polish it all up afterwards. But depending how bad your hazing is, i would defo give one of the diy polishing kits a go, it does help.
Chris

 

Somebody said use toothpaste. really? Any expierience of this?

 

Haha, no i havent tried that :P but i would have thought it would leave loads of different chemicals on the headlamp and it might react with sunlight. Im just guessing so it might work for all i know give it a try and let us know, coz maybe youre onto a winner but no one knows!

 

I just let mine get fixed this weekend, I'll post some photo's later.

The dude used wet sanding paper (3 types) and 2 type's of polish. He finished with a UV protection soap.

They are as new now.

 

Ye thats exactly what im planning on doing when i have the time.

 

It took him 45 Minute's and a total of 80km drive. Costed €100

Here's his website, kinda useless cause he's in holland. but you can see some results there until i show my pics.
http://www.koplampalsnieuw.nl

 

This is from one of my old posts

Hard work & Meguiar's Plast rx

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...off-before.jpg

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-off-after.jpg

Hopefully you can click old links

 

You don't need any special polish's etc.

Get you self some fine Wet 'n dry (i use 3 grades 1000, 1500 & 2000), a rubbing compound and some polish add some elbow grease and they will look like new.

I did this on my old MX5 and they turned out like new just like Robskytoon's pictures

 

i got mine done a while back by a local body shop guy that i know, he sands them down then 2 coats of clear lacquer look lik new charged me £35

before


and after

 

The Maguiar PlasTX is about £10 & elbow grease free

emery cloth seems a bit extreme to me, mine were poor but only took about 15 minutes each

 

I would go anywhere near them with emery cloth that would be far to rough.

 

I always though wet & dry was emery paper - I think I would start with the least abrasive substance first

 

Wet and Dry uses silicon carbide as the abrasive material.
The grade (size) of the particles are much more uniform.

 

I had my headlamps restored by a company in New Jersey called Windshield Wonder. They restored my headlights and now they look factory new. They came to my house and restored the lenses in my garage. They sanded my lenses and then applied two coats of some sort of lens restoration liquid. The total cost for both lenses was $85.00. They informed me that applying carnuba wax to the lenses twice a year will stop them from hazing. So far it seems to be working.

 

For the technically minded re wet & dry developed by 3M

Materials used for the abrading particles are:
flint: no longer commonly used
garnet: commonly used in woodworking
emery: commonly used to abrade or polish metal
aluminium oxide: The most common in widest variety of grits, lowest unit cost; can be used on metal (i.e. body shops) or wood
silicon carbide: available in very coarse grits all the way through to microgrits, common in wet applications
alumina-zirconia: (an aluminium oxide–zirconium oxide alloy), used for machine grinding applications
Chromium(III) oxide: used in extremely fine micron grit (micrometre level) papers
ceramic aluminum oxide: used in high pressure applications, used in both coated abrasives, as well as in bonded abrasives.
Sandpaper may be "stearated" where a dry lubricant is loaded to the abrasive. Stearated papers are useful in sanding coats of finish and paint as the stearate "soap" prevents clogging and increases the useful life of the sandpaper.
The harder the grit material, the easier the sanding of surfaces like wood. The grit material for polishing granite slab must be harder than granite.