78K not even run in my N/A has 120,000 never missed a beat and my SRT6 now has 90k apart from a minor blower and intercooler problem (which N/A's don't have) that has been no trouble

if at 78K it has good history I wouldn't worry about it, they are prety bullit proof.

 

thanks 11Feb, just took one out on a test drive it was a automatic and i need a question answered, should changing the switch from W to S make much difference to the performance!?

Whitty

 

The W switch, is for wet/icy weather, it does make a difference, and stops wheel spin, and makes driving a little easier, it also lowers the rev range to stop the spin, not a very technical answer and i'm sure will be put in a more technical fashion by those in the know i'm sure, (well i am a chef) the S button on the hand stands for sh*t this is quick, take off the traction control, change manually and the fun starts, and listen to the exhaust note between 5and 60000 revs... sweet!
Welocome to the forum btw, i hope you get the car your after :0)

 

UK Whitty it will make a difference performance. The w setting will keep the tranny in a higher gear to cut down on wheel spin and help with traction in snow or wet weather.

 

Also Pistonheads is a good place to look!

 

So what does the "W" stand for

answers on a postcard to..........................................


I know!!!! WHIMP MODE!!! for those not got the bottle for SH*T THIS IS QUICK mode lol lol

 

Thanks all for the reply’s

WIMP MODE!!!!!!!!!! That’s a classic

Anyways I’ve been busy but i finally got to test drive the crossfire I looked at yesterday, Only been in 4 now so not much to go on but it seemed to drive very nice indeed,
Can’t find a fault on bodywork or interior apart from a small scuff on the nearside wing,
The cars up for £4250 and after spotting they were out by nearly 3000 miles it’s done just over 80000 not 78000,

I have got them down to £3750 with 3 months warranty and 6 months tax, it does feel like a nice car and it has been looked after, so I’m thinking of taking the offer? (this is the hard bit do I do it or wait lol)

Whitty

 

I would wait a while. Mileage is a bit on the high side for me. But if she drives well, its up to you.

Sorry. Not much help.
Jon

 

Low mileage is always the best option. We all know the the Mercedes 3.2 engine and transmission will be reliable even at very high mileage..But do consider the other components that keep the vehicle running, not all made by Mercedes..

With your spend look for a 2005 xfire...4K+ will secuire you a good low mileage vehicle.

As has been said many time..its a buyers market..DONT RUSH. I still think a private purchase is the best option.

UKKen..

 

Is this from a dealer?? if so, how easy did they come down on the price? tells how desperate they are to move it
The warranty is probably not worth much but £3750 with 6 months tax is not a bad price. be a bit cheeky and go back and say 12 months tax or I walk means you get the car for £3500!!! The mileage wouldn't bother me at that price.
At the end of the day you have seen it, driven it!!! if it fits the bill go for it

 

Whimp mode does it for me lol

 

Yes, big miles can be OK if you're really sure it's been well cared for - but unless money's an issue and you're getting such a stonking good deal with a high miler, as I said before, lower miles are generally better for a keeper.
Consider spending a little more for less miles on the clock.

 

Good point about other components.
I've recently been looking for a cheap (but decent and practical) stopgap daily driver and settled on a PT Cruiser (had one before and liked it a lot). Not an obvious comparison to choosing Crossfires you might think but - for obvious reasons of economy, high mileage diesels (even older ones) are quite expensive compared to often newer lower mileage petrol cars, so I decided on the latter because, even though diesels use less juice and tolerate the big mileages better than petrols, many of the other components wear out at the same rate, regardless of which lump is under the bonnet - and it's not just running gear but seats and other interior parts.
OK, everything can be fixed (for a price) - and some folks will say I'm daft for worrying about cosmetics - but you don't want to put up with tatty (and sometimes smelly) surroundings every time you get into the car - spoils the experience.
Lower miles often mean a better experience all round, so it can be well worth spending that little bit more - doesn't have to be a lot - just keep looking!

 

Hi Crosscats, have you tried Piston heads, heres the link
Used Chrysler Crossfire cars for sale with PistonHeads

Theres a few on there for 3-4k, with sensible miles, dont be put off by private sellers, theres some cracking deals around, good luck!

 

hi all thanks for the feed back,
I've got 2 to look at today both with lower mileage a (54)auto 36000 miles and a (54) manual 38000 from private sellers, so will let you know how it goes :-)

oh there's been some snow here so might need the wimp switch on the auto lol

Whitty

 

Forget the manual..unless you like hardwork! With the auto you have the best of both worlds

UKKen.

 

Those mileages sound more like it to me - good luck - looking forward to your news.
For what it's worth(!), I apply a simple age/value formula (for want of a better term) when deciding if an XF is priced right:
Assuming good all round condition, low/average mileage (around 50k or less as a benchmark), good history, clean interior, good tyres (& wheels), and a decent amount of tax & MOT if poss., I reckon most XFs are worth about the same figure as their year: i.e. 2003 (53) £3500; 2004 (04) £4000; 2004 (54) £4500 and so on, geddit? Of course, even a nice low mileage 2007 @£7000 would be getting a bit steep in today's buyers' market (and is getting close to SRT prices) so apply a little discretion.
Obviously, if the car is great in all respects for its age but has higher miles, the price comes down, so it's only a rough guide but gives a good starting point and anything below those guidelines is starting to look more like a bargain.
Coupe vs. roadster and auto vs. manual don't really affect value too much as they are such personal choices (IMHO but living in Scotland, I'm not an open-top fan!) - and the rarer but controversial Cedar (red) interior only adds a little value to those who really like it (which I do - wish I could put one in my SRT - or is that sacrilege?!) - those who don't will see it as a negative. I heard of one buyer who told a seller that nobody liked them which is why they didn't make many, so he used it as a bargaining chip to get another £300 off the price! Sometimes it pays to be cheeky!

 

Hi all



Well here are my findings on the 3 cars I viewed today,

1st was a (54) red manual with 38000miles on the clock, 4 owners he had owned it 8months,
Service history was missing last 30000miles stamp,
Bodywork looked mostly very good but a few bubbles on one rear arch and a nasty scratch on the front corner of the bumper (but nothing that would cost a lot to have done) rear rims scratched a bit to,
Interior looked ok but the driver’s seat looked worn onthe driver’s door side of the seat (is this a known problem? He told me it was)
Took it for a test drive and I didn’t like it at all(sorry manual owners, I think I will go auto)
Not just the gearbox it just didn’t feel tight (don’t know how to explain what I mean there)
Anyways wanted £4250 only had 5 months MOT 2 months Taxgot him down to £4000 but told him I had more to look at.



2nd was a (54) auto grey 36000miles on the clock very nice 3 owners last owner 18 months,
Service history was up to date main dealer,
Bodywork very good wheels again scuffed quite badly,
Interior was good but very light gray (I like the black the best lol)
Took it for a test drive and felt very smooth (in fact the same as the 80000mile one yesterday I got to admit no better no worse)
It had 10 months MOT Tax up end of the month,
He wanted £5500 now my budget as slightly gone down (the very most I can offer is £4500 MAX!! in reality £4000 has I need to insure it with this money,)
But I thought I would try to barter with him (got him to knock 6 months tax off it)
So £5350 asked if it was the very best he could do hesaid I’ll get £5500 if I wait and he’s not I a hurry to sell, to be fair he as a (12)plate Range Rover and a (11) plate Audi A4 on the drive so maybe he can hold on.



Right 3rd car was from a dealer, who I had emailed 4 days ago and he phoned out the blue,
(04) gray auto 48000miles 3 owner’s last owner a Lady(why they say that I don’t know lol)
She had it 3 years’ service history was up to date
Well this looked a nice car bodywork very nice wheels good had a few extra badges and what not on it (like a V6 badge on boot plus some on the side of the rear bumper?)
interior very nice, again a badge stuck on the glove box and one by the handbrake?
It had 11 months MOT no Tax, No warranty unless I paid for one,
Anyways took it out on a test drive and could not believe how many rattles there were, and the wheel even shook over 60mph (which he said he would sort has he thinks it’s just the front wheels need balancing)
Now I told him that I had just took 2 crossfires outtoday and this one was a very hard and bumpy ride, he told me it was the (RunFlat tyres that were on it)
He wanted £4750 very best I could get was 6months Tax onit so £4600 so left it as it didn’t drive that nice.



I did find something out today which I should of found out myself really seeing I’ve been reading as much as I can about crossfires(No spare wheel?? is that the reason for the run flat tyres??)

Sorry for the long post
Whitty

 

They should have a compressor and a cannister of tyre gunk that attaches to the compressor under the boot floor.

 

which will be out of date.......i carry a couple of cans of holts tyreweld...alright if its a nail but not much good if the sidewall cops it......have thought about getting a front wheel as an emergency spare to keep in the boot, would drive crap but no worse than the spacesaver i had to use on my 4.0 cherokee....