REVIEW and DIY - Lowered Rear ONLY with Pictures
as Pharmacy school approaches, I now know I just may be a visual learner
these instructions are spot on, and these photos will go perfect with the explanation.
the three bolts holding the arm...
IMG_0715.jpg
location of jack....
IMG_0717.jpg
didnt touch the fronts......YET
IMG_0718.jpg
these instructions are spot on, and these photos will go perfect with the explanation.
the three bolts holding the arm...
IMG_0715.jpg
location of jack....
IMG_0717.jpg
didnt touch the fronts......YET
IMG_0718.jpg
So the key to getting the back even with the front is just cut 3/4 of a spring in the rear correct. The front height is perfect but that rear height/rake is a little too intense for me. I just want to level it off
Originally Posted by Fritzauf
You will need the spring compressor for the front springs only to do the job safely. I installed the Eibach Pro Kit and the ride is much smoother. I've also installed the Koni adjustable dampers. The ride and height is tight and just right.
Originally Posted by basslover911
Overview
I wanted to lower the Crossfire on a budget, and what better way to do it than to cut the stock springs! Now, this is not the same for all vehicles. (And indeed should not be done to any other car without first finding out some specs). SO, it turns out that the Eibach springs have the same lbs rate than the stock ones, just that it has one less coil. This mean that if we cut the stock springs one coil, they will be the same as if we had Eibach springs.
Installation
Installation took about 3 hours for both rear sides by myself. It is straightforward, and it could be completed in about 1 1/2 hrs if you have someone to help you.
- Raise the car (take off wheels).
- Take off the two bolts near the center of the car that hold the lower a-arm plastic cover (they are 10mm) - and take the cover off.
- There are three bolts near the disc brake (two are silver and the middle one bronze/gold) which you need to take off. If you lower/raise the a-arm by placing a jack under it it will be really easy to take tension off the bolts to take them off - they all have different positions at which tension is off of them so you need to play with the jack.
- After that simply pull the lower a-arm down and pry the spring out.
- To cut from the bottom I had to take it to a mechanic with a table saw so he could cut it (my dremel didn't work, the blade totally broke off)... THESE SPRINGS ARE MADE OF TITANIUM OR SOMETHING! THEY ARE HARD TO BRAKE!
- Reinstall everything in the reverse order.
Review
I have had this mod for about 5 days and it is awesome! It lowered the car enough to give it a good look and stiffened the suspension just enough. Body roll is reduced about 80% and the looks are just awesome.
Now, I will get to lowering the front the same way, BUT if you just want to lower the rear don't cut a full coil, maybe 3/4ths and that will be more than enough to level it (<- If I did this again, I would do it like this and not even touch the fronts = less work).
If you have a spare weekend, some jacks, and beer I would definitely recommend doing this as it is free (or $10 for someone having to cut the springs like in my case) and it gives the car a MUCH sportier feeling as well as looks.
RECOMMENDED! IT HANDLES A LOT BETTER! (And remember, this is just the rear done. when the front gets done I will post a new thread with observations on it).
Notes
- The rear is a tad bit lower than the front, like I said if i weren't lowering the front I would only cut the rear 3/4th of a spring to level it.
- The suspension IS stiffer, but a good stiffer.
I used to have a Honda S2000 with full coilovers so to me this is nothing. I actually love having no body roll now.
- It doesn't rub with stock wheels and tires (not even close to rubbing).
- PLEASE align the spring pad on top of it when putting the spring back in, other wise bad things could happen. Also, cut the spring from the bottom, not the top!
Level of Difficulty - *** out of ***
Time to Complete- 3 hours (by myself)
Next - Lowering the Front through the same process... I will keep you guys posted.
Tito @ TR-Performance
www.tr-performance.com
I wanted to lower the Crossfire on a budget, and what better way to do it than to cut the stock springs! Now, this is not the same for all vehicles. (And indeed should not be done to any other car without first finding out some specs). SO, it turns out that the Eibach springs have the same lbs rate than the stock ones, just that it has one less coil. This mean that if we cut the stock springs one coil, they will be the same as if we had Eibach springs.
Installation
Installation took about 3 hours for both rear sides by myself. It is straightforward, and it could be completed in about 1 1/2 hrs if you have someone to help you.
- Raise the car (take off wheels).
- Take off the two bolts near the center of the car that hold the lower a-arm plastic cover (they are 10mm) - and take the cover off.
- There are three bolts near the disc brake (two are silver and the middle one bronze/gold) which you need to take off. If you lower/raise the a-arm by placing a jack under it it will be really easy to take tension off the bolts to take them off - they all have different positions at which tension is off of them so you need to play with the jack.
- After that simply pull the lower a-arm down and pry the spring out.
- To cut from the bottom I had to take it to a mechanic with a table saw so he could cut it (my dremel didn't work, the blade totally broke off)... THESE SPRINGS ARE MADE OF TITANIUM OR SOMETHING! THEY ARE HARD TO BRAKE!
- Reinstall everything in the reverse order.
Review
I have had this mod for about 5 days and it is awesome! It lowered the car enough to give it a good look and stiffened the suspension just enough. Body roll is reduced about 80% and the looks are just awesome.
Now, I will get to lowering the front the same way, BUT if you just want to lower the rear don't cut a full coil, maybe 3/4ths and that will be more than enough to level it (<- If I did this again, I would do it like this and not even touch the fronts = less work).
If you have a spare weekend, some jacks, and beer I would definitely recommend doing this as it is free (or $10 for someone having to cut the springs like in my case) and it gives the car a MUCH sportier feeling as well as looks.
RECOMMENDED! IT HANDLES A LOT BETTER! (And remember, this is just the rear done. when the front gets done I will post a new thread with observations on it).
Notes
- The rear is a tad bit lower than the front, like I said if i weren't lowering the front I would only cut the rear 3/4th of a spring to level it.
- The suspension IS stiffer, but a good stiffer.
- It doesn't rub with stock wheels and tires (not even close to rubbing).
- PLEASE align the spring pad on top of it when putting the spring back in, other wise bad things could happen. Also, cut the spring from the bottom, not the top!
Level of Difficulty - *** out of ***
Time to Complete- 3 hours (by myself)
Next - Lowering the Front through the same process... I will keep you guys posted.
Tito @ TR-Performance
www.tr-performance.com
I just want to say thanks to the writer of the above post. This afternoon I have cut the rear springs of my SLK32AMG in accordance with the way he explained, it took me about 3 to 4 hours and the result is, in combination with the Bilstein B8 shocks, excellent. I cut the springs exactly 5/8 coil and it came 3,5 cm lower. The rear is now just a fraction lower than the front. Next week I am considering to cut the front springs 1/2 coil or perhaps just a 1/4 coil. For the front I will use a MB spring compressor.
Greetings from Holland
I did this today, took me 1hr from start to finish. This is a very easy job.
I cut only 1/2 of a coil off the springs, hoping it will make the car sit level. I wont find out till i get my wheels back from the PC'er and get it back on the ground.
I cut only 1/2 of a coil off the springs, hoping it will make the car sit level. I wont find out till i get my wheels back from the PC'er and get it back on the ground.
So here is something that was never brought to my attention before I lowered my crossfire...
There is no way to adjust the camber on the rear after you cut the spring or purchase new ones. Mercedes didn't want anyone messing with their suspension so they never gave you the option of adjusting it. In order to do so, you have to purchase a camber adjustment kit which will run you around 300 bucks. I found this out the hard way. I now have a bad steering wheel vibration and a loud hum coming from my rear wheels. Wish I would have known about this issue before dropping my car.
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
There is no way to adjust the camber on the rear after you cut the spring or purchase new ones. Mercedes didn't want anyone messing with their suspension so they never gave you the option of adjusting it. In order to do so, you have to purchase a camber adjustment kit which will run you around 300 bucks. I found this out the hard way. I now have a bad steering wheel vibration and a loud hum coming from my rear wheels. Wish I would have known about this issue before dropping my car.
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
Originally Posted by jenloe
I found this out the hard way. I now have a bad steering wheel vibration and a loud hum coming from my rear wheels. Wish I would have known about this issue before dropping my car.
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by jenloe
So here is something that was never brought to my attention before I lowered my crossfire...
There is no way to adjust the camber on the rear after you cut the spring or purchase new ones. Mercedes didn't want anyone messing with their suspension so they never gave you the option of adjusting it. In order to do so, you have to purchase a camber adjustment kit which will run you around 300 bucks. I found this out the hard way. I now have a bad steering wheel vibration and a loud hum coming from my rear wheels. Wish I would have known about this issue before dropping my car.
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
There is no way to adjust the camber on the rear after you cut the spring or purchase new ones. Mercedes didn't want anyone messing with their suspension so they never gave you the option of adjusting it. In order to do so, you have to purchase a camber adjustment kit which will run you around 300 bucks. I found this out the hard way. I now have a bad steering wheel vibration and a loud hum coming from my rear wheels. Wish I would have known about this issue before dropping my car.
Anyone else having this same issue but choosing to ignore it?
Originally Posted by BoilerUpXFire
DId you cut your springs or use cut SRT springs, and how much did you lower it? (number of coils and approximately how many iches, if possible)
Thanks.
Thanks.
37961_437646075923_507960923_5391404_6285613_n.jpg
Last edited by jenloe; Mar 23, 2011 at 10:11 AM.
Originally Posted by jenloe
Cut at 1 coil each front and back springs. On stock rims 18s and 19s
It has an amazing stance, and I am after something similar, but having to spend an extra $300-400 is not exactly the best news.
Are you going to try and source a TVT set, buy speedy benz, or (I believe) K Mac makes a set as well. I have not done too much research, yet.
They are the stock rims. I love the stance and it corners amazing but the highway steering wobble is driving me up the wall. Not sure what I'm gonna do for the camber adjustment just yet. I have a child due next month and need to sell the xfire so I might just have the new owner take care of it. It's too bad there is no back seat in these cars.
Originally Posted by jenloe
They are the stock rims.
I am going with SRT springs, hoping the higher spring rate will help out some. I know other members have done the same.
Sorry to hear about you selling the car, but family is always first.
Boiler, if you lower your car that much you REALLY need to install the adjustable rear camber arm and front camber bolts....
The Aero isn't that low and I had way too much camber without the adjustable arms....
The Aero isn't that low and I had way too much camber without the adjustable arms....
Ok, I am seeing the arms are a must, but who have you guys all bought from and what have your experiences been?
From what I understand, TVT used to make a kit, but no longer does? I know speedy benz makes one and I think K Mac does as well....
From what I understand, TVT used to make a kit, but no longer does? I know speedy benz makes one and I think K Mac does as well....
I have TVT arms..... there is another maker on MBworld in addition to the SpeedyBenz ones. I THINK KMAC is just bolts, not adjustable arms.
Hi,
HPautoworks, see link: Suspension - HP Autowerks Inc
but only for the 32AMG, but that's the same
HPautoworks, see link: Suspension - HP Autowerks Inc
but only for the 32AMG, but that's the same
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