Mandrus Rotec INSTALLED!! Early pics
Would you let me know how you made out with that length after you get them on the car?
Just got back from Discount Tire with the Rotec rims installed. First we tried the 28mm, they would spin but were just catching on something so they installed 24mm Gorilla Locking Lugs.
Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories
As I side note I stayed with the stock tire sizes on the new rims and although they're not as squared as before it seems to have improved the ride quality.
Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories
As I side note I stayed with the stock tire sizes on the new rims and although they're not as squared as before it seems to have improved the ride quality.
Thanks for the update. Do you know if they were able to get 6 to 7 full turns till tight?
Just got back from Discount Tire with the Rotec rims installed. First we tried the 28mm, they would spin but were just catching on something so they installed 24mm Gorilla Locking Lugs.
Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories
As I side note I stayed with the stock tire sizes on the new rims and although they're not as squared as before it seems to have improved the ride quality.
Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories
As I side note I stayed with the stock tire sizes on the new rims and although they're not as squared as before it seems to have improved the ride quality.
28 to 24mm is a reduction of 0.158", just a tick over 1/8 inch. I did put a OEM bolt and a 24mm though the Rotec and there was plenty of thread sticking out the back. If you really want to be sure
pull an OEM rim off and stick an OEM bolt into it and measure how much thread length is protruding.
Then do the same with the Rotec and new bolt. Let me know what you come up with. My OEM rims are still at DT because the wouldn't fit in the car.
pull an OEM rim off and stick an OEM bolt into it and measure how much thread length is protruding.
Then do the same with the Rotec and new bolt. Let me know what you come up with. My OEM rims are still at DT because the wouldn't fit in the car.
Last edited by ATX SRT-6; Nov 19, 2015 at 05:18 PM.
The two companies that told me 24MM were pretty sure that anything longer was going to hit the brake cable, so I feel for sure that the 24mm is the one for sure. I'm going to guess that the center hub isn't as thick as the stock wheel as the shank for the OEM bolt is 40mm.
28 to 24mm is a reduction of 0.158", just a tick over 1/8 inch. I did put a OEM bolt and a 24mm though the Rotec and there was plenty of thread sticking out the back. If you really want to be sure
pull an OEM rim off and stick an OEM bolt into it and measure how much thread length is protruding.
Then do the same with the Rotec and new bolt. Let me know what you come up with. My OEM rims are still at DT because the wouldn't fit in the car.
pull an OEM rim off and stick an OEM bolt into it and measure how much thread length is protruding.
Then do the same with the Rotec and new bolt. Let me know what you come up with. My OEM rims are still at DT because the wouldn't fit in the car.
Here's what they used on mine
The center hub is thinner than the OEM
Last edited by ATX SRT-6; Nov 19, 2015 at 05:49 PM.
Did they use the spline head because the bolt hole opening on the Mandrus is smaller than our OEM Wheels?
Here's what they used on mine Amazon.com: Gorilla Automotive 17100SD-20 Small Diameter Chrome 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack Of 20: Automotive
The center hub is thinner than the OEM
Here's what they used on mine Amazon.com: Gorilla Automotive 17100SD-20 Small Diameter Chrome 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack Of 20: AutomotiveThe center hub is thinner than the OEM
Interesting to see the differences in mounting hardware between shops... The conical seat on Mandrus likely has to do with the fact that there are differences in bolt thickness among different Mercedes models. IIRC, some E-Class and S-Class use M14 bolts. SLK-Class, C-Class, and the Crossfire use M12.
So from a production standpoint, it makes sense to have a M14 bolt hole on the wheel with a conical hole. The angle of the seat means there's a positive hold once tightened, regardless of lug bolt diameter OR bolt length per specific vehicle model. Once the bolt is tightened to 80 ft/lb, it's good to go. The ball seat used by MB works when the bolts (M12/M14) are engineered to mate to a specific hole size in the wheel intended for that model.
Mandrus makes a quality wheel, so even though the hub is thinner, it's by design to accommodate the entire MB lineup.
If the 24mm length bolts work on your car and allow you 80 lb/ft of torque per bolt, you're in good shape.
Happy cruising.
So from a production standpoint, it makes sense to have a M14 bolt hole on the wheel with a conical hole. The angle of the seat means there's a positive hold once tightened, regardless of lug bolt diameter OR bolt length per specific vehicle model. Once the bolt is tightened to 80 ft/lb, it's good to go. The ball seat used by MB works when the bolts (M12/M14) are engineered to mate to a specific hole size in the wheel intended for that model.
Mandrus makes a quality wheel, so even though the hub is thinner, it's by design to accommodate the entire MB lineup.
If the 24mm length bolts work on your car and allow you 80 lb/ft of torque per bolt, you're in good shape.
Happy cruising.
Did they use the spline head because the bolt hole opening on the Mandrus is smaller than our OEM Wheels?
I picked up my SRT-6 rims, put a OEM bolt in a front rim and measured 11/16" protruding out of the back of the hub.
Noted. Did you transfer over the TPMS units to the new rims?
Did you transfer over the TPMS units to the new rims?
How do the OEM wheels look ?
Gonna sell them ?
Gonna sell them ?
Last edited by ATX SRT-6; Nov 23, 2015 at 06:10 PM.
Yes I did but I should of put new ones in. The originals have 10 years on the batteries and when they die you lose the codes. Which means a trip to the stealership to get new ones reprogrammed. I ended up buying new ones after finding this out but after the rims had been installed. Had DT clone the originals to save the codes. I'll have them installed the next tire balance. I went back in my truck to pick up the rims and sensors so as not to confuse the ones installed in the Crossfire.
Hey ATX SRT-6!
Please share details about which clone type TPMS sensors Discount Tire set up for you! I am collecting knowledge about how to keep our TPMS systems working. The big issue is getting the car side of the system to relearn new wheel sensor IDs. As you know, the only (known and shared) way to get the system into relearn mode requires a DRB III scan tool plus Daimler-speaking multiplexer box plus Crossfire software card. Which were not universal at Chrysler dealerships even back in 2007, when they were superseded by new diagnostic equipment.
I bought new tires a few weeks ago at my Detroit area Discount Tire, and asked them to replace TPMS sensors. The light had come on a couple weeks earlier and dead battery was the greatly likely cause. At first they said "no problem," even though I told them it wouldn't be that simple. Then they checked more, and said they didn't have the correct sensors, and that I would have to go to the Chrysler dealership.
So particularly if you have those sensors outside tires: what brand and model did they use to clone yours? Another level of detail would be: what tool did they use to clone / program those new sensors? And when you get to see the old sensors: can you read ID codes (an 8 character hexadecimal string) on the sensor labels? Some cloning systems can take manual ID input, in case the battery is really dead.
Thanks!
Clint
Many and Great Thanks, ATX SRT-6, for sharing this info about your replacement TPMS sensors! Please update when you get those Schrader E-Z Sensors working in your Crossfire! Showing that TPMS sensors can be cloned to work on our cars will be a substantial contribution to the community. At least that part which wants to have a functioning TPMS.
The E-Z Sensor 33500 just came to market in August, and I had not picked up on its availability until your report. It's a neat solution for Crossfire folk who don't care to be taken advantage of by Chrysler dealerships charging an hour labor just to make the car relearn TPMS sensor IDs. If they even have the equipment and knowledge to do that. The "D" at the end of 33500 might mean it was packaged or sold through Discount Tire. That E-Z Sensor looks as close to a universal TPMS replacement sensor as anyone will provide, since it can be set up (programmed) to replace either of the sensors used in Crossfire (or nearly any other light vehicle in the world). AND it can be cloned to use the ID of the old sensor which the car system is still looking for!
A couple other Forum members, onehundred80 and KDW4Him, have shared best info about TPMS and I will put what I am finding over on their threads, but your discovery and verification of this clonable sensor will be a great addition.
Another aspect I am tracking is how to clone an old sensor, even after it has stopped transmitting to the car system, due to a low battery. My own car has had the TPMS light on for over two months, even through getting new tires installed, since the (otherwise fine) tire store didn't know how to replace my sensors. Their shop TPMS expert used a Bartec TPMS scan tool to check sensors and reported the two rear sensors were DEAD, but the tire store didn't have the right parts and equipment to replace.
Took the car back to the same shop yesterday and asked them to try using a TPMS magnet to trigger sensors which were not reporting. All four managers / techs in the store said "it doesn't need magnets, only Cadillacs and Camaros" but tried it, anyway. And sure enough, when triggered with a magnet, the two rear sensors responded. So those could be cloned by electronic copying, even after the car system saw them as dead.
Which goes along with what a Bartec rep told me, often sensors can be read for a while after the car system can't see them, since handheld tools are so much closer to the wheel sensor transmitter.
Thanks again, please confirm your cloned sensors work when installed!
Clint
The E-Z Sensor 33500 just came to market in August, and I had not picked up on its availability until your report. It's a neat solution for Crossfire folk who don't care to be taken advantage of by Chrysler dealerships charging an hour labor just to make the car relearn TPMS sensor IDs. If they even have the equipment and knowledge to do that. The "D" at the end of 33500 might mean it was packaged or sold through Discount Tire. That E-Z Sensor looks as close to a universal TPMS replacement sensor as anyone will provide, since it can be set up (programmed) to replace either of the sensors used in Crossfire (or nearly any other light vehicle in the world). AND it can be cloned to use the ID of the old sensor which the car system is still looking for!
A couple other Forum members, onehundred80 and KDW4Him, have shared best info about TPMS and I will put what I am finding over on their threads, but your discovery and verification of this clonable sensor will be a great addition.
Another aspect I am tracking is how to clone an old sensor, even after it has stopped transmitting to the car system, due to a low battery. My own car has had the TPMS light on for over two months, even through getting new tires installed, since the (otherwise fine) tire store didn't know how to replace my sensors. Their shop TPMS expert used a Bartec TPMS scan tool to check sensors and reported the two rear sensors were DEAD, but the tire store didn't have the right parts and equipment to replace.
Took the car back to the same shop yesterday and asked them to try using a TPMS magnet to trigger sensors which were not reporting. All four managers / techs in the store said "it doesn't need magnets, only Cadillacs and Camaros" but tried it, anyway. And sure enough, when triggered with a magnet, the two rear sensors responded. So those could be cloned by electronic copying, even after the car system saw them as dead.
Which goes along with what a Bartec rep told me, often sensors can be read for a while after the car system can't see them, since handheld tools are so much closer to the wheel sensor transmitter.
Thanks again, please confirm your cloned sensors work when installed!
Clint
FWIW, Chrysler has used magnets to trigger the sensor from the beginning. I have the actual Chrysler magnet that I used when reprogramming my 2002 Chrysler Town and Country Limited to recognize new sensors. I believe, but do not know for a fact that the system that Chrysler used originated from the Prowler with its lack of a spare tire, and they added also to the high end maxed out T&C Limited and Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.
FWIW, Chrysler has used magnets to trigger the sensor from the beginning. I have the actual Chrysler magnet that I used when reprogramming my 2002 Chrysler Town and Country Limited to recognize new sensors. I believe, but do not know for a fact that the system that Chrysler used originated from the Prowler with its lack of a spare tire, and they added also to the high end maxed out T&C Limited and Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.
Our early build 2004 Pacifica used the magnet to retrain sensors.
The 2006 GC as the higher end system and has transponders in each wheelwell to read the sensor automatically.
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